I have an L245DT and when I was pushing back some snow banks this morning I think that the 4wd might not be engaging. In my pickup if you're in 4wd and you get stuck, and you're giving it gas it will jump around a bit as all 4 wheels are trying to move you. But with the tractor, if I get up against the snow bank and it doesn't want to move it the tractor just stops. I can rev it till the cows come home, it just doesn't seem to even try to move. I haven't owned any tractors prior to this, so maybe this is normal? Im thinking not. Does anyone have any advice?
4WD not engaging?
- Thread starter brunswick000
- Start date
gktilton
Member
Equipment
B7500 with Loader and MMM. Woods M4 Bush Hog, Kuhn Rototiller, 3PT Snow Blower
are any of your tires spinning?
Gear Drive or Hydro?
Hi or Low range?
Are you using the diff lock pedal?
Gear Drive or Hydro?
Hi or Low range?
Are you using the diff lock pedal?
No tire spin at all, no jumping, or binding
Gear drive
Low range
was not using diff lock pedal
Grrrrrrrr! That is the sound of money I think. What does this mean? If in fact it is the clutch then what has to be done?
Well, your clutch obviously engages and your tractor moves so I don't know how serious your problem might be. But, if you're pushing against something and your engine revs freely but your wheels don't move, you're eventually going to smell that clutch burning.
If it burns (slips) long enough eventually it won't engage anymore and you'll neeed to split that tractor to replace it.
If it burns (slips) long enough eventually it won't engage anymore and you'll neeed to split that tractor to replace it.
Ok then. Well thats not what I was hoping for in this tractor. However I guess it is 30 years old so what can ya do really. Ill continue to use it until it needs obvious replacing. Guess ill start researching how to do the job now. Is there anything else you might as well do when you've got your tractor torn apart that much?
What we always did w/car clutches, is resurface the flywheel and install a new pressure plate. If this is the first time service on the clutch you may want to give that some serious thought.
If the clutch is slipping the its not really a good idea to go on using it..Reason being. the rivets will start wearing the face of the Flywheel which will then need replacing..Do the clutch now and you may get away with less stress on you wallet.
dave
That is a good suggestion, but I believe it is time for a new clutch, if he is in low range, on slick ground, and the tires won't spin.
Well id like to know how to adjust the clutch either way. Also, i have a gravel yard, so no "slick ground".
I'm not familiar with your model. On my B7200 HST 4X4 there is an adjustable length rod connecting the clutch pedal to the lever coming out of the clutch housing. One end of the rod is threaded with a clevis screwed onto it. By removing the pin from the clevis and turning it onto or off of the rod, you can change the lenght of the rod. If your clutch is like mine , you would want to shorten the rod. ( a small amount) When you push on the clutch pedal you should feel about 1" of "freeplay" before the pressure required increases as the clutch disengages. I hope that makes sense.
Yup I understand. Ill take a look tomorrow and post back. Anyone reccomend anything other than the parts and shop manual for the tractor as far as the clutch replacement is concerned? Ive never done one before. Im assuming it will be time consuming and complicated.
I was able to simply adjust it and it appears to be working fine now. Was a bit of trial and error, as I over did it a bit at first and obviously did the opposite of what was required because the clutch would not fully disengage. But its good to go now. Thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions. Im just pleased that I don't have to split the thing in half. Although secretly I was kind of looking forward to overhauling this little beast. Thanks again 
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If the clutch is slipping, it's likely to require replacement, which involves splitting the tractor. I've done a couple, and don't recommend it unless you have some solid mechanical skills--getting the spline matched up, so as not to crush your new clutch, can be dicey.
Short of that, though, it may be possible to adjust the clutch--you should have an adjustable linkage rod underneath the clutch pedal. Caution--they're linked differently on different models. Adjustment on my M7500 is backward of adjustment on my L2550.
Then there's one odd little possibility to check out. This happened on my L2550. The clutch pedal and the brake pedal both pivot on the same shaft under the operator's platform. The shaft itself is free to spin in its housing. What happened in my case was that the clutch appeared to be failing, in the sense that against very little resistance, the tractor would just stop moving. Bad, bad news--I'd just replaced it--until I noticed that when I pushed on the brake pedal, the clutch pedal would move, and vice-versa. Turned out the zerk fitting had been broken off on the brake side under some previous owner, I hadn't bothered to grease the zerk on the clutch side, and both pedals' sleeves were rusted to the shaft--so when I let the clutch out, it would only travel until the brake pedal's travel limit stopped it. Some penetrating oil, a little work freeing both pedals on the shaft, a little grease in both sides, and we were off and running.
Worth checking out, as opposed to splitting your tractor.
Bob, I bet he's got it running. Good information for someone but this is 14 years past. No big deal, we all get caught up in the moment.