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I got all the manuals. The front axle has high viscosity gear oil in it, don't want to run UDT as its viscosity is pretty high, more liable to get seal leaks. It is time to change to coolant. I have a primary fuel filter that is visible for crud build up, and if it is clean (which it is) it is...

Thanks for all the comments. I guess by majority rules, the oil and filter will get changed.

I bought this BX23 with 1800 hours on the clock, and at that time, changed all the fluids, with the hydrostatic getting the SUDT, more commonly known in Canada as UDT premium. Eight years later, the tractor now reads around 2300 hours. What would the recommendation be, new oil, new filter, one...

Thanks for the explanation. Experience counts for a lot when diagnosing this kind of stuff.

Interesting diagnosis. Could you explain why you suspect a cracked head as opposed to a leak thru the head gasket?

No matter how careful you are, sooner or later some piece of crap is going to get into your tank. Use a filter at the fill port of the tank, either from the dealer, or Mcgyver something like this yourself.

With this location, the tractor itself is the guard. It sits in between the fel attach post and the tractor body.

A little bit of effort involved in making the 2 shafts, but that is all the materials you need. The mower deck wheels become the dolley wheels.

Go to any hardware store to buy these by the dozen for what you would pay for 1 at the dealer. A grade 2 bolt has no marks on the head. Refer to the included chart.

Glad you finally got it fixed, very aggravating when you need it to work and it doesn't. While your problem wasn't from garbage dropping into the tank from outside, you did mention that there was a bit of debris in there when you drained it. Doesn't matter how careful you are, it will accumulate...

I wired these in for emergency use only, if I experience a failure of the safety switches. It allows me to go when there is a problem, get the job done, and then worry about fixing the safety switch problem. The toggle is a safety bypass for ALL the safety switches, and the push button is a...

When winter comes, I slip this in front of the rad. Works like a charm, without it, the gauge never gets above the cold mark.

Chute guard was turfed as soon as I cleared my first blockage. However, I did replace it with and easily removable solid piece of heavy gauge tin, fastened with wingnuts for convenience. An enclosed chute doesn't allow airflow to spill out of the column, and gives you better blowing distance.

Would it not be easier to install a variable speed control on your fan. With no or low air flow, it doesn't really matter how hot the heater core gets. You are just pulling out enough to maintain the cab temp at a comfortable level.

Very well done. Just a suggestion, but mounting that cylinder shaft facing down would prevent snow and ice from locking it up.

Or do this, zero dollars, has lasted for 2 years so far

Nope. Switch bypasses all safety switches. Red button will engage the starter under any circumstance , including when the engine is running. May have to rethink that feature.

That is not a light, it is a "start the engine ignoring all safety interlocks". I must now go into hiding to avoid detection by the safety police.

I thought about doing what you did with my BX23, but instead I installed a switch on the dash that disables all the safety switches at once. Gives more flexibility, yet retains the original safety functions.