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You can only kill a battery so many times until it decides to stay dead. Probably has less lives than a cat.

Are those marks on the output shaft just that, or are they cracks. If cracks, it if fubared for sure.

What works for me is to raise the deck up as far as it will go, then get off the tractor on the left side, grab the edge of the deck and lift it, twisting the height adjustment knob to the lock position at the same time. Unlocking it can be done from the seat.

Ok, I hope I'm not the only one in the dark about what a window regulator is. Please edumacate me on this mysterious item, since I believed windows were simply glass things that let in light and some times could be moved up and down. My age is showing, isn't it?

I would thing the easiest and best load tester is the starter trying to turn over the engine. Put a meter across the battery posts (not the cable ends) and watch the voltage while cranking. If it drops, bad, or discharged battery, if it doesn't, repeat with meter across the battery terminals. If...

What you are probably hearing on the right side is the starter solenoid clicking, but not getting enough voltage to engage the starter. On the left side, the click you hear when turning the key to off, is the fuel solenoid briefly engaging to cut off the fuel, and a few seconds later...

Make sure your rims are not spinning inside the rear tires, sounds wacky, but has happened more than a few times, especially if the tires are loaded with beet juice.

If a hand operated treadle would work for you, here is one I built to be operated from the backhoe position. There is no reason why this would not work, if the handle orientation were changed to work with the tractor seating position.

That pretty well defeats the purposee of having a fuel inlet screen. Foreign matter into your tank happens at the most unforseen times, not when you are standing there with the fueling nozzle in your tank.

This is my version of the front axle vent on a BX23. Now, if you have the habit of leaving or working your tractor with the front axle submerged in water for extended periods of time, I would not recommend this method. Modify one of the axle fill plugs as shown in the diagram. When reinstalled...

Connect a voltmeter between the negative battery post and a good ground on the frame. Then turn on the key, and there should be no voltage reading on the meter. If there is, check your ground cable connection the the battery negative, and to the frame at the other end. If there is, you need to...

Whatever you do, do not drill thru the frost plug so as to establish a pry point. There is a nightmare thread , either on this site, or tractorbynet, about drilling thru the frost plug and the cylinder wall.

Lil Foot hit the nail on the head, I think. However, you might want to give some thought why they are breaking. It could be that there is not sufficient lubrication of the pin, and when in use, it tries to twist in the boss, at the location of the cotter pin.

Are you sure that your snowblower up/down function isn't hooked up the the FEL bucket swivel/dump outlets. If it is, you are probably using the quick dump/regen part of the valve to lower the blower.

1500w driven by 12v gives a current draw of 133amps at 100% efficiency. On high setting, would be drawing 43 amps over the alternator output. Do the math.

While this is no help at all with your present problem, when you do get it fixed it would be to your advantage to rig so kind of strainer in the filler neck of the fuel tank. You don't need a real fine mesh because you don't want to restrict fuel flow when tanking up. Any particles small enough...

That's the real down side of this setup, no feathering of that final 4th position.

It does seem backwards to me as well, but it is what it is.

Your bucket roll up works as normal, ie stick to the left. The bucket tip or roll down works as follows. Move stick to the right and bucket dumps (ie regenerative mode or quick dump) but press it further to the right (past the detent) and it works as a normal hydraulic circuit.

The engine running matters, but probably not in the way you think. A running engine keeps the hydraulic oil warm and if anything, increases the rate of droop.