ZD221 Won't start...and stay running

[oakescharles]

I searched on this forum and found this article which was similar however different.

ZD221 won’t start. Electrical issue

Hello. My ZD221 zero turn won’t start. Battery is good. I have good voltage at the starter. I tested the solenoid and it appears good. I’ve gone through the two lever safety switches, the seat safety switch, the pto/mower engage safety switch and the brake safety switch. I get variable and...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Back story leading up, I purchased this mower last weekend. 2013 Zd221 with 385hrs. I probably cranked the mower 30 times since purchasing it and mowed my 2 acre yard. Being so close to 400 hrs, like most in here, I decided to do a complete 400 hr maintenance to give me a fresh start. Well, I pulled it into my shop and it wouldn't turn off. So I turned the key off and within 20 seconds it turned off. (Odd). I cranked it again and then I turned it off, worked perfectly. Did that another 10 times with no issue.

Fast forward to today, I changed my air & oil/filter and went to crank the mower. Then starter engaged as normal however died within 1 second with a huge puff of black smoke. I figured it was glow plugs so I left the key on for 10 seconds and try it again. Same result. Repeat this step 10 times, then suddenly the key stopped engaging the starter. The dash lights still are on. I was hoping that the hood was open that perhaps there was a safety switch. Closed the hood. Still no starter engagement. Jumped the starter with the key on and the engine started and died within 1 second with a huge puff of black smoke. (Much like before).

Checked all the fuses except the slow blow. Any thoughts?

 

[oakescharles]

Update: Checked the Slow Blow Fuse = Good, Bypassed the Seat Switch = No Change

 

[Captain13]

Sounds like your fuel shutoff solenoid is failing or now has failed completely. Easy to replace if that‘s the problem. When mine finally failed, it wouldn’t shut off without hood the solenoid in the off position for about 20 seconds. Also, The only way it was start was to turn the key to the on position and then move the throttle forward until I heard the solenoid click.

Are you getting the “click” when you turn the key on? Before you try to start it again, locate the solenoid, (top of the engine, right side) and watch to see if it energizes, pulling the rod that goes to the pump. If not, that’s probably your problem. Mine was about $80 at the dealer.

 

[oakescharles]

Sounds like your fuel shutoff solenoid is failing or now has failed completely. Easy to replace if that‘s the problem. When mine finally failed, it wouldn’t shut off without hood the solenoid in the off position for about 20 seconds. Also, The only way it was start was to turn the key to the on position and then move the throttle forward until I heard the solenoid click.

Are you getting the “click” when you turn the key on? Before you try to start it again, locate the solenoid, (top of the engine, right side) and watch to see if it energizes, pulling the rod that goes to the pump. If not, that’s probably your problem. Mine was about $80 at the dealer.

October 26, 2022

youtube.com

 

[Captain13]

Sounds like the fuel pump clicking. However, I didn’t hear the shutoff solenoid click and I couldn’t see from the video. If that was the solenoid clicking, it’s definitely bad. The solenoid is usually a one click action. Loud enough to hear for sure. Not sure what’s going on with the starter. Were you in the seat, brake on, blade disengaged?

You can actually bypass the solenoid by pulling it to open the fuel line at the pump. It’s either on or off. If you bypass it, what ever you use to hold it open will have to be removed to shut it off.

i looked at your video again. Check your battery voltage and make sure it is fully charged. At reduced charge, it will illuminate the lights but not start the engine.

 

[oakescharles]

Sounds like the fuel pump clicking. However, I didn’t hear the shutoff solenoid click and I couldn’t see from the video. If that was the solenoid clicking, it’s definitely bad. The solenoid is usually a one click action. Loud enough to hear for sure. Not sure what’s going on with the starter. Were you in the seat, brake on, blade disengaged?

You can actually bypass the solenoid by pulling it to open the fuel line at the pump. It’s either on or off. If you bypass it, what ever you use to hold it open will have to be removed to shut it off.

i looked at your video again. Check your battery voltage and make sure it is fully charged. At reduced charge, it will illuminate the lights but not start the engine.

Thanks so much for your help. That loud click at the end was the solenoid shutting off. I was in the seat with brake on and blade disengaged. The starter does not engage anymore with the key (almost like a safety is defective) I can jump the leads of the starter and the engine will start for like a seconds then immediately die. When on the mower, I can hear faint clicks when moving the drive levers in and out.

I am not a fan of throwing parts at a problem. Do you think the solenoid would keep the starter from engaging at all?

 

[Captain13]

No. The solenoid won’t interfere with the starter. Sounds like the starter problem is related to a safety switch. The blade engage switch can be troublesome due to grass buildup on the switch lever. Blown around theswitch with an air gun. check The steering lever switches as well. I agree with not throwing parts at it. You have to solve the starter problem first. Your key switch could be defective as well.

There is also a starter relay to be checked.

 

[oakescharles]

Update: took the floor pan off to access the brake safety switch. Tested it and it is working as it should. Tested the PTO switch working as it should. Havent taken switches out of the drive arms to test them, however the solenoid clicks off when engaging them with the key on.

tested voltage on the black and white wire going to starter. 0 volts with keyoff, .03 volts with key on and no change when turning the key. Any additional things to check?

 

[lugbolt]

Under the seat there is a black plastic cover. Take the cover off. Under the cover you'll find some relays. And some wires. Look CLOSELY at the wires, specifically where they make the turn from the harness up to the relays, and also where they enter the relay connectors

that area is known to get dirty with clippings and the clippings hold moisture and moisture causes corrosion and corrosion tears up the wiring and sometimes the relays

 

[oakescharles]

Under the seat there is a black plastic cover. Take the cover off. Under the cover you'll find some relays. And some wires. Look CLOSELY at the wires, specifically where they make the turn from the harness up to the relays, and also where they enter the relay connectors

that area is known to get dirty with clippings and the clippings hold moisture and moisture causes corrosion and corrosion tears up the wiring and sometimes the relays

Swapped around all the relays and no changed. Noticed this small red wire was cut on the left most relay. Where does this go? Is it the problem?

 

[rentthis]

Strip and reconnect them. I don't know what it is but it ain't right.

 

[oakescharles]

Found the wiring diagram, hooked the red wire back up. Starts with Key now however immediately dies. See video

Starts

youtube.com

 

[Captain13]

Great. So you are back to what appears to be fuel starvation. Either the filter, pump or shutoff solenoid. I’m thinking shutoff solenoid. The solenoid has two coils if I remember right. One pulls the solenoid for start sequence. Returning the key to run from start provides voltage to the second coil for the engine to continue running after the start. If you can check the voltage on the solenoid and voltage is present, the run coil is bad because it’s not holding with voltage present.

 

[oakescharles]

Great. So you are back to what appears to be fuel starvation. Either the filter, pump or shutoff solenoid. I’m thinking shutoff solenoid. The solenoid has two coils if I remember right. One pulls the solenoid for start sequence. Returning the key to run from start provides voltage to the second coil for the engine to continue running after the start. If you can check the voltage on the solenoid and voltage is present, the run coil is bad because it’s not holding with voltage present.

Tested with outcomes:

Key off .8 volts
Key on .8 volts
Key start .64 volts
Key off 12.10 volts for ~ 8 seconds then back to .8 volts

 

[oakescharles]

Fixed, I bleed the system and put the old air filter back in and its roaring again. Odd but it worked

 

[Captain13]

That’s great. Thanks for the follow up to let us know. Have a good weekend.

 

[whitetiger]

Great. So you are back to what appears to be fuel starvation. Either the filter, pump or shutoff solenoid. I’m thinking shutoff solenoid. The solenoid has two coils if I remember right. One pulls the solenoid for start sequence. Returning the key to run from start provides voltage to the second coil for the engine to continue running after the start. If you can check the voltage on the solenoid and voltage is present, the run coil is bad because it’s not holding with voltage present.

Just for clarification, the fuel shut-off solenoid on the ZD221 is always in the run position until the key switch is turned to the Off position at which time the shut-off timer will energize it for 5 to 8 seconds. After 5 to 8 seconds, the current is shut off by the timer and you will hear a loud click as the solenoid returns to the run position.