Would you Load Rear Tires?

[Dan_R_42]

I'm replacing my rear rims, having my existing, like new, R4 tires mounted to brand new rims. My question is: Should I even add ballast this time, at all, to the tires???

My setup is a B7100-D with B219 Loader & ARPS 70 Backhoe. When Backhoe was installed I had to add lots of extra weight to front and middle of the tractor to keep front wheels on the ground. Especially when trying to drive up the trailer ramps. When I purchased the tractor the original AG tires on the B-7100 were loaded, but it did not have the backhoe attachment. Is there an advantage to loading the tires with all the weight on the rig now?

I'm most concerned with winter use clearing snow and keeping the traction. Looking for your comments on using the rig with the weight of backhoe as my weight for traction, vs. loading tires with additional weight.

Your opinions are appreciated...
Thanks, Dan

 

[cmorningstar01]

Do you plan on leaving the backhoe on the machine during the winter when you will be using the machine to move snow if so then I would think you should not have to add weight however for those times when you remove the backhoe you may have to add additional weight, I have a B7500 HSD with a LA302 Loader and my tires are loaded(front and rear)I have a small bracket on the 3 point that I can hang a few hunderd pounds of weight on should I feel the need but mostly I prefer the back of the machine to be clear as it makes maneuvering easier and if I have to use a back blade then the 3 point is ready to go, I have the big orange fiberglass canopy and have mounted 3 mirrors on it so I minimize the turning around, I just glance up and can see whats behind me, I think its a matter of personal preference but for me the extra weight in my front and rear tires seems to be sufficient for the 18-24 inches of snow we have had over the last few winters, If the snow is too deep then I do not drop the bucket all the way down and make a first pass and then go back over it with the bucket in float.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Something doesnt sound right about the front end being that light especially with a front end loader installed. I had an Arps hoe attatchment on the back of my L275 and it has a front end loader and never had a weight issue on the front end. I dont remember which model Arps mine was but it had like a 6 and a half foot digging depth. I looked at picuters of the Arps 70 on Google and it seems rather small from what I could tell.

Whats the digging depth or reach on the Arps 70? I thinking it could be to heavy for the tractor and not properly suited for the B7100.

As far as trailer loading back it up onto the trailer and get the heavy assend up there first. I have to do that loading my tractor when I have the aerator hooked up.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Hi Eric,

The ARPS 70 was the smallest backhoe available, and I was told it was compatible with the B-7100. The Woods backhoe was the only other available back when I had it installed. I did not like the Woods chain drive for the swing, so I went with the dual piston swing on the ARPS. Backhoe stays on tractor year round.

It was setup by a Kubota dealer who has since gone out of business. It has a depth rating of 7' max with a digging depth of 6 1/2' for an area of about 2' in length.

Because of my trailer setup and axle/weight distribution I need to drive on the trailer. Also need to hang backhoe bucket out the back between the ramps. When the ARPS 70 was installed I had the original factory AG tires/rims on and they were loaded. If you drove up a slight incline or the trailer ramps the front would be off the ground. Even had to setup my trailer on a down hill slope to get the 7100 home from the dealer. He indicated that it was normal to have to add weight to middle and front to use rig with the hoe. Maybe that's why he is no longer in business...

About 8 years ago I had all new rims with R4 tires installed. I had the rears tubed and loaded. Even with the tubes the magnesium chloride has leached from the tubes and eaten the new rims from the inside out. That is why I am hesitant to load them again. Not wanting to $375 for 2 new rims if they only last 8 years, yet not feeling real comfortable with not having weight with a low center of gravity to keep it from tipping under certain conditions.

I'm now wondering if I will be more prone to tipping/flipping on a side hill without the weighted wheels.

Does anyone know if wheel weights are available for the B-7100 setup with the big 12 x16.5, R4 tires and rims?

Thanks, Dan

 

[Eric McCarthy]

There are other routes you can take to fill your tires with less harmfull and cheaper liquids. You can buy an air/water adaptor from Tractor Supply for about ten bucks and fill the tires with concentrate washer fluid. You can go with a water anti-freeze mix.

It still really concerens me that you have to add weights to the front of the tractor for the backhoe to be on. Looking at the photos you posted it seems like it should be well balanced out. I've been scratching my head all day on this one!

 

[kubotasam]

I have the same tractor loader combination as you. I have a woods 750 backhoe. I have all 4 tires loaded with washer fluid and extra cast weights on the wheels. If I remember correctly the ones on the front are 45 lbs and I have 90 lbs on each rear wheel. I would not use the tractor without the extra weight.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Thanks Eric,

I'll take it as a complement. It was balanced out after some creative work. If you look under the vertical tower for the loader frame, you will see 3 1"x4" steel plates. There are actually 4 steel plates in all. Top most was cut shorter to clear bolts holding loader to frame.

Also, the orange, angled tubes, (behind the black lift pistons) that support the front part of the front bucket assy (with the pinched top ends), are also weighted. I drilled 3/4" hole on bottom side of the tube, tapped in a thread for a plug and filled them with lead bird shot many years ago.

The additional weight keeps my front end down and balanced now. My big worry is being top heavy if I don't replace the weight in the rear tires that I have always had. Guess I could go with beet juice, but hear it is very messy.

Anyone else running a B7100 w/ loader & backhoe? How have you setup your rig?

 

[Wildfire]

Dan there was a time I used to operate heavy equipment for a living. Most of the equipment was of the larger scale such as 992 Cat, 35 ton Cat haulage trucks and so on. I remember we had a couple if smaller John Deere back hoes that we had to operate for some special assignments and those things were so light on the front end while traveling the front wheels would bounce right off the ground. Very common to see that happen all the time.

Now when it comes to loading the rear wheels I'm kind of in a situation myself. My tractor has a snow blower on the arse end all the time but I now have a double size snow bucket for the new tractor I have ordered. Considering I will eventually be using this snow bucket I've decided to put more weight on the arse end of the new tractor. I looked at all the different types folks use and if I could have gotten it here I would have went with Rim Guard. It's heavier than the other fluids used and causes no damage to the rims. If you got a flat it doesn't harm the environment so it was my choice but not available in my area.

So after some more consideration I ordered rear wheel weights. For the Kubota Grand L 5740 I can get weights at 180 lbs each so I ordered four of them. There is an extra mounting bolt kit that had to be ordered with them.

Considering my snow clearing contracts are on government property I don't run the risk of a fluid leak on the property so I don't have to worry about that liability. I'm sure you can get weights for your wheels. I was told you can get them for any tractor. They run about $1. a lbs.

I was looking at my weights the other day at the dealer. They are pretty cool. They are stackable. You need weight back there and in your case some up front won't hurt either.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Thanks Wildfire,

I believe that Rim Guard and beet juice are the same product. Also hear that if you do get a flat it can be messy to fix. I like the rim weight idea. Guess I'll have to figure out how much weight to add to each side.

I have no idea how much my current loaded tires weigh. I just know that to even roll them up vertical from laying down is a chore. Sounds like cast iron weights could get expensive.

Is it an extreme cold issue for you that you can't get Rim Guard in your area?

Dan

 

[Wildfire]

Thanks Wildfire,

I believe that Rim Guard and beet juice are the same product. Also hear that if you do get a flat it can be messy to fix. I like the rim weight idea. Guess I'll have to figure out how much weight to add to each side.

I have no idea how much my current loaded tires weigh. I just know that to even roll them up vertical from laying down is a chore. Sounds like cast iron weights could get expensive.

Is it an extreme cold issue for you that you can't get Rim Guard in your area?

Dan

Dan it's possible you could get by without rear weight. If you intend to keep the back hoe on there all the time I wouldn't use extra weight. Those hoes got a long overhang causing the front to lighten up. If the hoe is expected to come off some time then the weight will be needed. Yes it can be a real mess if you need to repair a tire not to mention the weight you have to deal with plus after the repair you'll need to reload the wheel.
Yes Rim Guard is made from beat juice. I think the reason it's not available here is because it's only purchased in bulk amounts and there's not much demand for it in these parts.
I've used my Kubota for three winters snow clearing. It's only used for snow clearing and the blower is always on the rear and I've never needed any extra weight back there. I'm only adding it now because of the new snow bucket.

Yes the rear weights are cast. Mine will cost me over $900. But they will last a life time with no risk of leakage. It's a win, win for my needs.
Paul.

 

[Lucky]

I purchased cast rear weights through my kubota dealer last year for my b7100. The weights were from a place in North Carolina (?). I have 120 lbs per wheel and they cost $227 (that's 240 lbs worth of weight). Well worth it and no mess in the tire.

 

[soarkrebel]

I loaded mine myself with water and anti freeze. Bought an adapter from Gemplers and was simple. I have let some friends borrow it to do theirs as well.
For me I wouldn't have one without them being loaded. On the hilly terrain I live it seems to male the tractor more stable.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Lucky,

Any chance you can share the info on your Kubota dealer or the actual weight mfg. My Kubota dealer in Massachusetts has told me they have checked with Kubota, and called around all their contacts, and there is no wheel weight to fit my rim.

Only weight they say they have access to is 70# which is not enough weight, and does not fit the B7100 rim. Would love to get a set of 120# wheel weights (240# total) for my rig.

According to my dealer to load the tires it would be about 130# each side, so, your weights would be very close to the target weight I need to get to.

Does your weight bolt up to your B7100 rims using the factory bolt holes? Any help you could provide will be appreciated... Any chance you could take a photo?

Thanks, Dan

 

[Lucky]

Dan,

This is the place: http://www.northstatesalesco.com/ I ordered them through my dealer as they were able to get more than 1000 lbs for the free shipping. The weights for my b7100 are stackable 60 lbers. So really you could add even more than 2 to each side. They matched up perfectly with my existing rims and I was able to mount them using the existing holes in the rims. Make sure you have accurate measurements before you order.