I can see that. There are some places in the US too where extra filters might be a good idea.Vevor sells their products around the world and some areas do require filters due to fuel supply conditions I was told.
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I can see that. There are some places in the US too where extra filters might be a good idea.Vevor sells their products around the world and some areas do require filters due to fuel supply conditions I was told.
My $275 GPI EZ8 just died after 4 years of very light use. For one of those four it was basiclly idle and GPI seems to have a reputation for premature failures. I will not buy another so its either even more money for a Fill-Rite or $188 for a 15 GPM Vevor with auto shutoff. I am not struggling with the decision.I am thinking of getting a Vevor pump. It does have a filter, if it needs it or not, depending on the options of many, it doesn't matter - it's there.
The features I like about it are the auto shutoff nozzle and that the suction is a 14-37" telescoping metal pipe, not plastic, which I'm thinking may be more durable.
I realize it is not Fill-Rite quality but would like some inputs on the pump itself, not the tank of filter. I could buy a cheaper pump for half the price, but not sure I want to go that cheap.
I do not use much fuel mainly in the winter, depending on how much snow we get.
I've removed the cap on my tractor and several times, found perhaps a quarter teaspoon of condensation in it. That's just the fill cap and what I saw that day. No telling own many drops had formed and dripped in to the tank..And herein lies the problem. Many things are carry-overs from a time when things were different, or simply not an apples to apples comparison. Storage tank material, internal coatings, fuel quality, fuel chemistry, the precision/requirements of the internal components of fuel systems, onboard filtration etc., have changed drastically over the years but the anachronisms linger.
If you want a fun topic to investigate, do a search on the whole theory about water getting into storage tanks or fuel tanks. Read some of the studies done on this and do some math and calculate the maximum amount of water vapor that's even possible in an empty 200 gallon tank let alone one that's 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4 full. There is so much mythology it's ridiculous. If you have water in your fuel storage tank it's not coming from air in the tank. This is why I've never subscribed to the theory that you should keep your fuel tanks close to full to avoid condensation. It's simply a myth that isn't supported by the math or physics.
The reason you donāt see it is that the filters are inside the pumps. Most every state has requirements for what micron filters must be installed on the pumps for their state.That's the point I was trying to get across. These transfer tanks are intended to be transported to a commercial fuel/service/gas station. Filling up a transfer tank should be no different than filling up a car or truck, unless you figure you're going to cut up a concrete block in the bed of your truck while the tank is filling! I've never seen someone at a gas/diesel station run the fuel through a 30 micron filtration system before they put it into the tank of their vehicle.
Just be aware that 16 ga SO cord coiled on a reel should probably be limited to something like 10 amps. I wouldn't leave it untended with a heavy load on it.I recently got a wall mount retracting extension cord.16 Ba wire, 15 am integral breaker, a led to show powered. Un-spools nice, easily retracts, no need top 'feed it'. Swings/pivots good. Easy mount (a separate bracket gets attached to the wall/ceiling then the 're-tractor' slides in and a screw retains it. Seems pretty good.
Vevor 'Hit N Mss', you never know.
I actually checked, it is 12 gauge, not 16 and has a 15 amp reset-able breaker integral, plenty for the shop vac and miter saw.Just be aware that 16 ga SO cord coiled on a reel should probably be limited to something like 10 amps. I wouldn't leave it untended with a heavy load on it.
Yes, there's always one and this time it is I.