Using box blade forks to level road with tight space

H595

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L2900 Kubota
Nov 16, 2025
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NC
In the mountains, we need to level a back road. The incline is perpendicular to road. The road runs level but it is tight so doing it with a loader bucket will be tough.
My question is can we use the scarifying forks in varying heights at the same time? I am thinking have the right two forks down while using the box blade where the road is high on the right side. In some areas, the the road is high on the downhill side (where the road washed) and sometimes it is high on the uphill side (where we need to make the road wider or cut a new road in the hill).
We have an L2900 with no tilt on the box blade.
Thanks for your time to answer.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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You would be much better off just tilting the blade., that's the way they are designed to work.
Just adjust the side link to do that.
Dropping teeth on one side will work, until it doesn't, and it grabs something then throws the tractor sideways. :eek:
Not a fun experience on a grade. :confused:
 
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jaxs

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let's talk about advisability of ripping base up after it has settled and packed. Tearing things up only invites washing away during rain,not to mention stones and pebbles picked up by tires and thrown from road. Gether material for filling low places while working on drainage swales and ditches. Use said bucket to transport loose material to where it's needed.
 
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JonM

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if your going to tear up a road bed you need to recompact it after fixing it. if you dont it will be rivht back to tore up again
 

NCL4701

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Maybe I’m not understanding exactly what OP is trying to do. I know if you’re trying to cut a road into the side of a hill such that the road is nearly flat with just enough slope to drain, you’re going to be pulling on one side of the blade until you’re about done setting the grade. To be clear, I’m referring to something like this (two different places, same scenario):

IMG_1407.jpeg

IMG_3607.jpeg

The end of the blade that’s engaging the ground is on the uphill side, so if the blade catches and tries to spin the tractor, it’s spinning the front end uphill. Once you have enough of a cut into the bank, there’s a wall that’s not letting the tractor spin anywhere so long as the front end stays on the ground. That’s said, while there are some operations running a boxblade or backblade where 5 to 6 mph is appropriate, IME this isn’t one of them. At least not the part where you’re cutting into the slope, establishing the grade of the road.

I don’t quite understand why it would be an advantage to drop the rippers on only one side. Set them all, tilt the blade appropriately using the adjustable side link, and whatever rippers you “need” will be in the ground. As the grade of the road changes with each pass, you’ll need to keep adjusting the side link to keep the blade level (or on whatever grade you’re aiming to end up with).

If you can’t tilt whatever blade you have using either the 3 point or some sort of tilt mechanism on the blade, you’re not going to be able to change the grade of a road.

As others have stated, regardless whether you disturb compacted material or add material or some combination of both, you’ll need to compact it when you’re done. Regardless how pretty it is when you’re done, if you don’t compact it, it will keep washing.
 
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Elliott in GA

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If you are going to top it with gravel, a loaded gravel truck is an excellent tool to compact the soil. A few passes over the road loaded, and then a few over the spread gravel (presuming the gravel truck spreads it for you) will be a big step towards stabilizing the road. All probably for the cost of a tip to the driver.
 
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jimh406

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I have weighted rear tires and loader on front. It seems like my tires are enough to pack dirt/gravel. YMMV.

I used this method to add to my trailer parking place. It hasn't changed as far as I can tell.

As noted though, I'd use a rear blade that has the ability to change the angle.
 
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