How would I tie into the tractor main hydraulics for my loader and get rid of the rear pto mounted pump. I have a L345DT 1979-1980.
Tying into the tractor hydraulics
- Thread starter kjrobinson
- Start date
PTO pumps usually have HIGH GPM spec compared to 'internal tractor' pump.
TD says L345dt has 9.4 GPM, so compare that number to whatever you're currently using the PTO pump for.
TD says L345dt has 9.4 GPM, so compare that number to whatever you're currently using the PTO pump for.
Thanks for the input, would you have a picture or part number for the outlet block, would I need to tie into the supply and return hard lines that come back from the pump.
Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
See this thread post #1 for a SIMILAR block tap on a different model of tractor. It will help you understand what the new cover does. I believe yours will be a different shape and in a different location. On my L185 the same cover is attached to a block in the tube as it passes over the transmission case.
www.orangetractortalks.com
You can also look into the illustrated parts lists hydraulic sections to see where the hydraulic block might be on your tractor. It is probably at the end of the hard line that comes off of the tractor’s pump.
B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)
Back in stock. CDN$40 plus actual shipping These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time and would like to gauge the interest others might have...
www.orangetractortalks.com
You can also look into the illustrated parts lists hydraulic sections to see where the hydraulic block might be on your tractor. It is probably at the end of the hard line that comes off of the tractor’s pump.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You replace this block with a tap block, you're going to have to have that block made as factory blocks have been out of production for a long time.
That will give you Power and Return (power beyond)
You will also need to add a tank line that will go to the sump.
That will give you Power and Return (power beyond)
You will also need to add a tank line that will go to the sump.
I make the blocks ($40) but I am pretty tied up right now. Its a three hose hookup.
Dan
Awesome, I really appreciate the help, where do I tie the sump in at, can I do it on the large hard line that runs from the pump? Also, Hokie do you know when you would have time to get one made for me?
Plumbing is hose from outlet block to loader valve and back to block - two hoses. Third hose goes from valve to existing port on transmission. Your current loader valve may not have the third port and if not should be replaced.
We have a true family health "crisis" that should be resolved in two to three weeks. Nothing before then.
Dan
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
On that model there is no port to tie the sump into.
One of the easiest options is to put a 90° fitting on this drain and connect the sump pipe there.
One of the easiest options is to put a 90° fitting on this drain and connect the sump pipe there.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yes you can tee into the large suction line for the sump, but that's normally harder to do than the above method.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Your right, if equipped, that is the best, some do not have that port or it's not drilled and tapped.
Ok, so a hose from the 1/4 outlet to the in port of the loader valve and a 3/8 line from the out port of the loader valve to the 3/8 return port, so no blocks are needed then. Where would I run the hose coming from the side tank that was used for the FEL and PTO pump. I am assuming I would still need that extra volume. I so appreciate the patience everyone has in here, not knowing much on the hydraulics but love to work on them.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I'm confused???
You will need the block to tie into the tractor hydraulics.
You eliminate the side tank completely.
You do not need the extra volume.
Unless your valve on the loader now has three hoses coming off of it, you will need to change that valve.
You need Power, Power beyond, and Return.
You have to disconnect your vakve frim the PTO pump and reconnect it to the outlet block. Thats the two existing hoses.
You can stop there but to protect your valve from high pressure damage you need to add a third low pressure tank return hose to the hookup. That may require replacing your existing loader valve
Dan
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Here is the connection block on my L185F. Does the same thing as your side/top block cover!
The red steel line comes from the pump. The block cover diverts it to the red fitting. That goes to a rear remote valve. The blue 90 degree fitting is the power beyond from the valve. That goes onto the three point control valve through the blue highlighted hard steel line (far side). The green fittings are the tank return from the valve that just dumps into the tractor sump. I am 99% sure the green port is G 3/8 also known as BSPP 3/8 parallel thread. There is a sealing washer between the tractor and fitting.
Looking at the illustrated parts lists I saw a couple of possibilities for the tank return if you go that way.
This may be a similar port as shown above but NIW may know it doesn’t exist on all L345. See item #11 and 12.
This is a cover that could be replaced or modified to add a port. See item 21.
The red steel line comes from the pump. The block cover diverts it to the red fitting. That goes to a rear remote valve. The blue 90 degree fitting is the power beyond from the valve. That goes onto the three point control valve through the blue highlighted hard steel line (far side). The green fittings are the tank return from the valve that just dumps into the tractor sump. I am 99% sure the green port is G 3/8 also known as BSPP 3/8 parallel thread. There is a sealing washer between the tractor and fitting.
Looking at the illustrated parts lists I saw a couple of possibilities for the tank return if you go that way.
This may be a similar port as shown above but NIW may know it doesn’t exist on all L345. See item #11 and 12.
This is a cover that could be replaced or modified to add a port. See item 21.