Tooth Bar??

NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
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This may have been beat to death 1000 times but I haven’t seen anything recent on it so I’m throwing it out for feedback, preferably from folks that have actual experience.

I currently have a 72” square back smooth front bucket on my L4701. For some things I really like the smooth front and it works quite well. Particularly moving aggregates such as gravel, mulch, sand, and relatively loose dirt. It works well back dragging in float for a final finish on relatively loose material. It works well for scraping a thin layer off the top of even hard ground and leaving a smooth finish. I’m not at all sure I want to permanently lose the smooth bucket option.

However, it is less than stellar at cutting into hard ground in a real digging scenario such as cutting down a creek bank for a crossing, cutting through numerous tree roots in hard dirt, creating substantial ditches in undisturbed soil. Our place (for reasons unbeknownst to me) has a quite odd for the area complete lack of natural rocks so digging in rocky areas isn’t an issue. Digging in clay is the issue. Dig while dry is dang near similar to digging sandstone. Digging wet is a bit easier from the bucket standpoint but traction is reduced running on wet clay so it’s still far from ideal. Seems like every bucket on every tractor, CTL, loader that’s intended for real digging, regardless of size of machine, has teeth so I’m thinking teeth are preferable.

Bottom line I’d like to have a tooth bar that is reasonably installable/removable depending on the job at hand. I’m thinking it would be on most of the time but option to remove would be highly desirable. If it’s teeth, swell. If it’s some sort of truly sharp serrated arrangement that should be fine also (the smooth front is already pretty sharp) so long as it doesn’t require routine sharpening.

I suppose price is always a consideration, but it’s not high on the list of considerations. I don’t weld and would likely prefer bolt on anyway so it can be removed and reinstalled without a grinder and re-welding.

So… Any specific model/manufacturer recommendations?
 
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rc51stierhoff

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B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
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Good day. I have a BXpanded TB on my B. I love it. (I would buy it again). However I do not have one (at least not yet) on my MX (have not had a need for it yet). I felt it is more helpful in a smaller machine for sure. I think your L is similar to an MX, so I don’t know. On the B it makes a big difference, that’s what I know. If you like the flat bottom of the bucket, it has some ribs on it that in my opinion are less than ideal for snow / concrete driveway. I don’t think it really changes much on the B as far as digging, it’s really not meant for that in my mind…but to scoop a settled pile of dirt huge difference or to peel some sod…it doesn’t not change my first rule of physics (respect the mass of the ass)…the rule applies to business as well 😉. Only way I can explain it is my tires spin less then they did before the toothbar…beyond that the B is not the MX…I guess I wonder when you wish you had the toothbar, did you run out of traction of loader lift / function? On the B I ran out of tire traction…it’s a light machine and I think the tooth bar reduced the insertion force of the bucket…I would think it would do the same on an L, but I also think you have a lot more weight than my B…so depends on how much you want to dig or tear through roots…for saplings and such the tooth bar made a big difference there too where the teeth really get under shallow roots and you can push them out…on the B though you have to be realistic what it will do IMO, but the toothbar is helpful in a B size machine IMO.
 
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fried1765

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Nov 14, 2019
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This may have been beat to death 1000 times but I haven’t seen anything recent on it so I’m throwing it out for feedback, preferably from folks that have actual experience.

I currently have a 72” square back smooth front bucket on my L4701. For some things I really like the smooth front and it works quite well. Particularly moving aggregates such as gravel, mulch, sand, and relatively loose dirt. It works well back dragging in float for a final finish on relatively loose material. It works well for scraping a thin layer off the top of even hard ground and leaving a smooth finish. I’m not at all sure I want to permanently lose the smooth bucket option.

However, it is less than stellar at cutting into hard ground in a real digging scenario such as cutting down a creek bank for a crossing, cutting through numerous tree roots in hard dirt, creating substantial ditches in undisturbed soil. Our place (for reasons unbeknownst to me) has a quite odd for the area complete lack of natural rocks so digging in rocky areas isn’t an issue. Digging in clay is the issue. Dig while dry is dang near similar to digging sandstone. Digging wet is a bit easier from the bucket standpoint but traction is reduced running on wet clay so it’s still far from ideal. Seems like every bucket on every tractor, CTL, loader that’s intended for real digging, regardless of size of machine, has teeth so I’m thinking teeth are preferable.

Bottom line I’d like to have a tooth bar that is reasonably installable/removable depending on the job at hand. I’m thinking it would be on most of the time but option to remove would be highly desirable. If it’s teeth, swell. If it’s some sort of truly sharp serrated arrangement that should be fine also (the smooth front is already pretty sharp) so long as it doesn’t require routine sharpening.

I suppose price is always a consideration, but it’s not high on the list of considerations. I don’t weld and would likely prefer bolt on anyway so it can be removed and reinstalled without a grinder and re-welding.

So… Any specific model/manufacturer recommendations?
My solution is FORD..
I have an older, 32HP 4x4 Ford with tooth bar, while my Kubota TLB has smooth edge bucket.
Having a 2nd tractor is a GOOD thing, for a lot of reasons!
 

Elliott in GA

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LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
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North Georgia
I have been pleased with my BXpanded Piranha bar. It arrived sharp, and it remains sharp despite being used in hard red Georgia clay with lots of softball to football sized rocks for over two years.

FWIW, here is a review of various bars.

 
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jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
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Edgewood, New Mexico
This may have been beat to death 1000 times but I haven’t seen anything recent on it so I’m throwing it out for feedback, preferably from folks that have actual experience.

I currently have a 72” square back smooth front bucket on my L4701. For some things I really like the smooth front and it works quite well. Particularly moving aggregates such as gravel, mulch, sand, and relatively loose dirt. It works well back dragging in float for a final finish on relatively loose material. It works well for scraping a thin layer off the top of even hard ground and leaving a smooth finish. I’m not at all sure I want to permanently lose the smooth bucket option.

However, it is less than stellar at cutting into hard ground in a real digging scenario such as cutting down a creek bank for a crossing, cutting through numerous tree roots in hard dirt, creating substantial ditches in undisturbed soil. Our place (for reasons unbeknownst to me) has a quite odd for the area complete lack of natural rocks so digging in rocky areas isn’t an issue. Digging in clay is the issue. Dig while dry is dang near similar to digging sandstone. Digging wet is a bit easier from the bucket standpoint but traction is reduced running on wet clay so it’s still far from ideal. Seems like every bucket on every tractor, CTL, loader that’s intended for real digging, regardless of size of machine, has teeth so I’m thinking teeth are preferable.

Bottom line I’d like to have a tooth bar that is reasonably installable/removable depending on the job at hand. I’m thinking it would be on most of the time but option to remove would be highly desirable. If it’s teeth, swell. If it’s some sort of truly sharp serrated arrangement that should be fine also (the smooth front is already pretty sharp) so long as it doesn’t require routine sharpening.

I suppose price is always a consideration, but it’s not high on the list of considerations. I don’t weld and would likely prefer bolt on anyway so it can be removed and reinstalled without a grinder and re-welding.

So… Any specific model/manufacturer recommendations?
I’m in the same place as you. I had a tooth bar on my previous tractor and did find times when the smooth bucket edge is better. For that reason, I haven’t installed a tooth bar on my MX. Probably the answer is to buy the tooth bar style that attaches with a bolt on each side of the bucket and just slips over the bucket edge. Removal and installation is a matter of two bolts.
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
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Central Piedmont, NC
My solution is FORD..
I have an older, 32HP 4x4 Ford with tooth bar, while my Kubota TLB has smooth edge bucket.
Having a 2nd tractor is a GOOD thing, for a lot of reasons!
I have a second tractor with loader but it’s a trip bucket on a row crop Farmall H so it’s of quite limited use on our hilly property. I don’t think my current issue is worthy of another whole machine although a CTL with a toothy bucket would be nice at times. 🙂
 

GreensvilleJay

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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
a second tractor is a nice option...

A second bucket, if SSQA style , might be an option ?

most toothbars install with 2 bolts,so not a total PITA to remove/install but slower than changing SSQA buckets......

mind you I've bought complete running tractors for what a new bucket and bar will cost today.....
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
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Central Piedmont, NC
Good day. I have a BXpanded TB on my B. I love it. (I would buy it again). However I do not have one (at least not yet) on my MX (have not had a need for it yet). I felt it is more helpful in a smaller machine for sure. I think your L is similar to an MX, so I don’t know. On the B it makes a big difference, that’s what I know. If you like the flat bottom of the bucket, it has some ribs on it that in my opinion are less than ideal for snow / concrete driveway. I don’t think it really changes much on the B as far as digging, it’s really not meant for that in my mind…but to scoop a settled pile of dirt huge difference or to peel some sod…it doesn’t not change my first rule of physics (respect the mass of the ass)…the rule applies to business as well 😉. Only way I can explain it is my tires spin less then they did before the toothbar…beyond that the B is not the MX…I guess I wonder when you wish you had the toothbar, did you run out of traction of loader lift / function? On the B I ran out of tire traction…it’s a light machine and I think the tooth bar reduced the insertion force of the bucket…I would think it would do the same on an L, but I also think you have a lot more weight than my B…so depends on how much you want to dig or tear through roots…for saplings and such the tooth bar made a big difference there too where the teeth really get under shallow roots and you can push them out…on the B though you have to be realistic what it will do IMO, but the toothbar is helpful in a B size machine IMO.
Running out of traction with 4WD loaded R4’s. With loader, boxblade on back, and my fat butt in the seat it’s running a bit north of if 5500lb as typically configured for loader work so yes, it has more ass than a B but probably a bit less than a MX. And you are correct it’s not but so big so I don’t expect it to do but so much.

For overall performance for my uses, I wouldn’t consider changing to R1’s. Have run R1’s on previous tractors and they cause too much damage on our dirt trails and mowed areas to swap to more aggressive tires. Loading from an old, settled, grassy dirt pile is not an issue. Cutting into original grade, tree root infested clay is the real issue. The smooth bucket will cut some tree roots but if they’re large or plentiful they are more problematic.

For the tree roots I was kind of thinking one of the sharp serrated styles might be more effective than traditional teeth. For hard dirt seems like teeth or sharp serrated would be effective.
 

RMS

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LX2610HSDC, RCR1260, PFL1242, LX2963, RB1684, WC-68 Chipper,Flail Mower
Sep 26, 2021
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Buckfield Maine
I have a heavy hitch tooth bar. It works well for dirt and rocky soil. I also have a stump bucket that I use when dealing with roots.
 
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dirtydeed

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X3 on the BXpanded Piranha bar. Two bolts and its off. I also have an ATI toothed bar that only gets occasional use for boulders/grubbing.

I haven't seen the EA wicked bar in person but it looks like it uses the same type of attachment as BXpanded (2 bolts)
 
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Trapper Bob

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I had the same issue as you (NCL4701). I solved it with a 2nd bucket, EA Wicked 72”. I wanted to be able to use both buckets as I pleased with the SSQA. It did cost more, vs a tooth bar only, but the sting has lessened with each easy switch of buckets.
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
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I have a heavy hitch tooth bar. It works well for dirt and rocky soil. I also have a stump bucket that I use when dealing with roots.
Hadn’t considered a stump bucket. That might be a serious consideration.
 

rc51stierhoff

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B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
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Hadn’t considered a stump bucket. That might be a serious consideration.
It’s sort of apples and oranges with my machines, I have a stump bucket (slides onto artillian fork frame)on my B (I originally got with now gone BX)we have a hard rocky soil, and it’s helpless if the ground not wet. I would not buy that again for the B sized machine….might be fine for your heavier L. MX has a BH…that would be better than a stump bucket although not a comparable price. Before I bought a stump bucket I would rent a machine or pay someone to spend a day and do as much stuff as I could line up.
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
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Central Piedmont, NC
Have to measure the inside width of the bucket for an exact price, but at about $360 +/- the BXpanded is looking like the front runner. We have some additional trails to cut later this year which will require moving a fair amount of dirt and rooting out of small trees to flatten hills and fill holes. I’d really like to have it before starting that project. Probably late fall/winter after I retire as that will be a rather large project. Right now we have virtually no trails on the 30 acres north of the creek and I’d like to rectify that deficiency. Need to do some similar work on a couple of trails on the south 40 acres that are currently barely passable even with the Mule and impassable with the much larger L. With the lead times on so many implements trying to get equipped properly well ahead of time.

Greatly appreciate all the prompt feedback and advice.
 
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cthomas

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Had a piranha bar on my BX2370(traded in) and it was the first thing I ordered for my LX2610. My brother really wants one for his L3240 but spent all his money on the tractor.
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
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Central Piedmont, NC
Be one of the first to get a Piranha Pro (just noticed it on their site) and let us all know how it works - https://www.bxpanded.com/piranhapro
Looks like a good option if I had a bolt on cutting edge such that the bucket already had the holes in the cutting edge. Mine has a welded cutting edge and not sure I really want to be punching all those holes in the edge.
 

Lil Foot

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Another thread:
 
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85Hokie

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Late to the party - the Piranha tooth bar is what I have had for the last 10 years - I actually "sharpened" the cutting edge a while back. Well worth every penny - no question!
 
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Lil Foot

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Here is the other thread I was looking for:
 
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