Three Point Hitch stuck in up position

[Paul2500]

I recently purchased a 20 year old L2500 and am totally new to the tractor world.

The tractor engine works well but I cannot get the three point hitch to lower. The tractor has a front loader bucket which works well - all functions work as they should. Moves up and down freely. The hydraulics appear to be working properly.

The valve used to regulate the three point hitch lowering speed turns three revolutions - from fully open to fully closed. It does not stop at the A, B, C positions as indicated in the generic operators manual I purchased on the internet for the unit.

I cannot see the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir thru the sight glass - it is opaque not allowing me to see the level. Is it possible to check the level by just removing the filler cap and looking inside ? If so, where should the level be when full?

Is it likely that the hydraulic fluid level is sufficient for the loader but too low for the hitch?

Any help on troubleshooting this issue with a rookie is appreciated !

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's posible that it need a little weight to break it loose if it hasn't been down in a while.

one direction on the know under the seat locks the three point, all other possitions regulate the speed of the fall of the three point.
Tractor does not need to be running, set the knob to either fast down or at least to the middle, set the three point control to down, then stand on the three point arms or put a board and some bricks across the arms for weight.

 

[Paul2500]

Thank you Wolfman.

I have tried standing on the hitch with the engine off. It does not budge.

I wonder if the valve is stuck in the locked "C" position and the stem turns without moving valve internals.

How should the hitch act with the valve in the locked position ?

Paul

 

[Tx Jim]

Is rate of drop screw under seat opened a little IE not completely closed?

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Here is what an L3800 HST 3-pt looks like under your seat. This is the cover, containing the 3-pt, inverted on a work table...

The HUGE piston (about the size of a Chevy 305 piston) pushes a pretty massive connecting rod which pivots the 3-pt control arm inside the rear end. That moves the lift arms on the outside of the rear end.

The funny box with all the levers and push rods to the left is the 3-pt control valve. Its controlled by the 3-pt lever simulated by his punch used to twist the linkage. That valve was a common problem with L3800 3-pt arm chatter going up and down. My valve was replaced. The part ran over $900 and was covered under warranty.

Here is the rear end under that cover...

Hope that gives you an idea of what you are looking at. I am betting the piston is stuck in position and needs to be broken loose... You can take this cover off pretty simply by disconnecting the linkage on the outside. You could soak the back side of the valve with penetrating oil over night and maybe carefully heat the piston cylinder with propane. AFAIK, there is no way to get behind the piston to hammer on it except by hydraulic pressure. There is no gasket upon reassembly, only silicone RTV gasket seal. Pretty safe to go inside and poke around. Just be sure to cover the rear end with a big towel to keep stuff out of there!

Ray

 

[Paul2500]

We removed the descend rate control valve. It was in good shape and appeared to be working. With 150 lbs weight on the hitch, there was no movement with the valve fully closed or fully open. We are considering digging deeper as TX Jim recommends.

Thank you for the information!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you removed the descend rate control valve and it didn't drop, you have a problem, as removing that valve should allow all the fluid that is in the cylinder to just flow out regardless of any settings and the three point should have come crashing down!

 

[ironpony]

Viagra in the oil????

 

[CaveCreekRay]

After seeing the diagram, I agree. If you flood the cavity left by the valve housing, some of that may flow into the pressure side of the piston. They say acetone and tranny fluid make a killer penetrating fluid. If all the rubber seals come out with the valve core, howsabout a little acetone? That should vapor off after the tractor runs awhile. Or, a penetrating oil?

Sure would beat dismantling the rear end. Given the way mine is built, I don't see a way to get on the pressure side of the piston even if the cover is removed. Perhaps there is a little room if you used some wood and tried to further move the piston "in" to break it loose.

?????

Ray

 

[BAP]

I had a JD 4455 tractor when I farmed that did this and it turned that the sealing rings on the lift piston had rolled out of place and wedge the piston in the bore.

 

[tcrote5516]

Viagra in the oil????

I'll give you point on that one. Well played sir.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Viagra might help if the 3-pt was down and we need it to go up.

This tractor might need "medical attention" for a 3-pt up more than four hours.

Ray