Testing voltage/ignition switch - Won't start

[Big Trees]

Hello everybody. I have a B6000E and yesterday/today is the first day it hasn't started for me. I tried starting it last night and it acted like it had a bad battery, wouldn't crank over or anything. So I put it on the charger over night.

This morning with a fresh battery and reading 12.7V I turned the key to let the glow plugs warm up and the normal "clicking" sound was heard. The plugs warmed up and I tried to crank it over and had the same result as yesterday. No cranking or anything. Just a sound like the battery was dead.

I got out the multimeter and started checking the ignition switch.

*Note* The (start) ignition terminal never gets used to start the tractor, even though it has wires going to it. It's the (ACC) side of the switch I turn the key towards to warm up plugs and start tractor.


- I put the meter neg probe on battery neg and pos probe on (start) terminal on ignition and I get near batt voltage. With the probes in same position I turn the key to the (start) position and I get near batt voltage there also.

- I put the meter neg probe on the battery neg and pos probe on the (ACC) terminal on the ignition and I get near batt voltage. With probes in same position I turn the key to the (ACC) position and I get (.01) voltage. NOT batt voltage.

As I'm retesting I do the (ACC) test again and when I do it this time I turn the key to (ACC), which is always where I've turned it to warm up plugs and start tractor, and the tractor starts making the "clicking" sound like it normally does and it is now reading batt voltage at the (ACC) terminal. While it was clicking and giving battery voltage to that terminal I try to start the tractor and it once again acts like it's a bad battery and just makes a click sound.

No more "clicking" noises and no more voltage on that (ACC) terminal.

I plan on making a trip into town today to have the battery load tested to see if it's the battery or not but I'm thinking maybe it's the ignition switch.

I don't have any testing information for this tractor so my tests are total prelim/shade tree mechanic type testing and I'm not certain what is my problem.


Given this information does this sound like a bad switch to anybody?

Possibly the battery? - I'll figure that out later today

Possibly another problem you can think of?


I'd appreciate any and all help! Thanks in advance.

 

[Aluthin]

Sounds like either the switch or a bad connection / broken wire.. If there is any spade connectors try cleaning them checking they are tight also try jump starting the tractor off your car it starts then the battery.... But to be honest sounds more like a connection come cable..... The b6000 wsm is on kubotabooks in it is the wiring diagram.... If that helps.

Also double check your earth contacts bad earth wouldn't help.

You can check for breaks or the switch using a piece of spare automotive wire of a decent gauge with a set of clips you can use it too bypass the switch if that makes no difference then use it to go from your switch output to your ignition and see if that works that will tell you if you have a possible break good luck

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[Dave_eng]

Download this troubleshooting guide from DENSO a major manufacturer of vehicle electrical components.
You likely dont have a carbon pole load tester so move to the voltage drop tests which you can do with your multimeter.
The results of these tests will be a big help and avoid a lot of unnecessary work.
http://densoautoparts.com/sites/default/files/tech-tips/DENSO Starter troubleshooting tips.pdf
Dave M7040

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Check the battery voltage again with the probes right on the battery posts. If the battery voltage goes to near zero when you try to start, you have a battery problem. If the battery voltage stays above 12 volts when you try to start, you have dirty connections. If dirty connections are indicated, disconnect the battery and clean the battery posts and terminals with a wire brush or sandpaper. The connections when clean should be shiny metal clean.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Ground cable where it meets frame. Remove, clean and replace with new bolt nut and lockwasher.

 

[Big Trees]

You guys are awesome, thank you so much for the replies and suggestions!

I have been busy all day and haven't been able to look at the 'Bota but when I ran into town I had the battery tested and it tested bad. It was holding a charge but the guy said it must have a bad cell in it or something. I didn't get a new one as I figure I have a battery here at home I can test with. I put that battery on the charger and will put it on the 'Bota tomorrow and try to crank it over. Hopefully it's only the battery.

I will post back tomorrow what I find out. I appreciate all of you!

 

[Big Trees]

I have a good battery on there, I have cleaned the battery connections on both sides on both cables and have cleaned the cables and posts on the ignition switch. Still same result.

Tomorrow I will continue cleaning every connection on the back of the dash.

When I had the dash off earlier I noticed that I labeled it wrong in my initial post. I will post back tomorrow how it's wired up. I know ACC is not wired up and I thought it originally was.



This is my first diesel ever. Does it need a special battery? I figured a battery is a battery as long as it has enough cranking amps. The battery this tractor came with was tested back the other day so I put in a truck battery that was just bought a couple weeks ago. I had it tested the other day and it was tested good.


Thank you guys. I appreciate your patience as well. I have been really busy working on the 8N and the JD mower and haven't had much time for the 'Bota.

 

[85Hokie]

"This is my first diesel ever. Does it need a special battery? I figured a battery is a battery as long as it has enough cranking amps. The battery this tractor came with was tested back the other day so I put in a truck battery that was just bought a couple weeks ago. I had it tested the other day and it was tested good. "

A battery is a battery .....but remember - in a gas engine, turning over cylinders that have compression 9:1 is a lot easier than a diesel at 22:1 !!!

Get the highest CCA you can shove in the holder (and can afford) and keep a battery tender on it when not in use for a while.

You have something a miss, and you will find it through the process of elimination. A battery that seems good and isnt is one that will pull your hair out!

Checking all the cables is something that most look past, saying to themselves, it worked yesterday - why isnt working today! AND the answer to that is "crap happens" - oxidation...vibration ...and a list of things we never think about.

I once changed the solenoid, and battery and something else....to find the "GROUND" wire was rusty and in bad shape.

Had to take a battery out of a "gator" that is harshly used at school - after scraping 1/2" of crud off the entire battery....got it inside, barely got 12 volts - charged for a good while, stuck back in, tried to start, but on about the 3 time cranking - the battery could not deliver the amps.....battery would hold a charge for a round or two, but not in reserve. New battery and it was perfect!

Tell us what you find when she run again!!

 

[Big Trees]

"This is my first diesel ever. Does it need a special battery? I figured a battery is a battery as long as it has enough cranking amps. The battery this tractor came with was tested back the other day so I put in a truck battery that was just bought a couple weeks ago. I had it tested the other day and it was tested good. "

A battery is a battery .....but remember - in a gas engine, turning over cylinders that have compression 9:1 is a lot easier than a diesel at 22:1 !!!

Get the highest CCA you can shove in the holder (and can afford) and keep a battery tender on it when not in use for a while.

You have something a miss, and you will find it through the process of elimination. A battery that seems good and isnt is one that will pull your hair out!

Checking all the cables is something that most look past, saying to themselves, it worked yesterday - why isnt working today! AND the answer to that is "crap happens" - oxidation...vibration ...and a list of things we never think about.

I once changed the solenoid, and battery and something else....to find the "GROUND" wire was rusty and in bad shape.

Had to take a battery out of a "gator" that is harshly used at school - after scraping 1/2" of crud off the entire battery....got it inside, barely got 12 volts - charged for a good while, stuck back in, tried to start, but on about the 3 time cranking - the battery could not deliver the amps.....battery would hold a charge for a round or two, but not in reserve. New battery and it was perfect!

Tell us what you find when she run again!!

Thank you, 85 Hokie. I will post back when I make some progress. Hopefully I'll find something out today. I appreciate you taking the time to help.

 

[85Hokie]

Something else to consider - the solenoid on the starter and or the starter itself.

If you know the battery has enough amps and will turn something else over - then you can assume (there is that word that can bite you in the butt) that the battery is not the problem - that being said - the current needed to close the contacts in the solenoid is there, but for WHATEVER reason the solenoid cannot close the circuit - thus the starter is not energized. On your 8n - you have a very unusual solenoid - IT does not work like many other ones as far as how is closes - neg side closes the circuit - and thus cannot be substituted with a typical ford car-truck solenoids.

You might need to tap on the side of the starter/solenoid to see if by chance the innards are "locked" up - then again, the contacts might be toast. ON your model - the solenoid might on top of the starter, or in the starter, I am not sure - but either way, that might be where you are heading!

YOU said at first that you heard the ticking sound......did that come from the dash? or the starter area? My B7100 ticks like crazy when glowing.....thats the hour meter ticking...

report back and let us know what else you find!

 

[Big Trees]

Something else to consider - the solenoid on the starter and or the starter itself.

If you know the battery has enough amps and will turn something else over - then you can assume (there is that word that can bite you in the butt) that the battery is not the problem - that being said - the current needed to close the contacts in the solenoid is there, but for WHATEVER reason the solenoid cannot close the circuit - thus the starter is not energized. On your 8n - you have a very unusual solenoid - IT does not work like many other ones as far as how is closes - neg side closes the circuit - and thus cannot be substituted with a typical ford car-truck solenoids.

You might need to tap on the side of the starter/solenoid to see if by chance the innards are "locked" up - then again, the contacts might be toast. ON your model - the solenoid might on top of the starter, or in the starter, I am not sure - but either way, that might be where you are heading!

YOU said at first that you heard the ticking sound......did that come from the dash? or the starter area? My B7100 ticks like crazy when glowing.....thats the hour meter ticking...

report back and let us know what else you find!

I will sure report back. I'm headed out there soon to look at it for a few.

As far as the ticking, I BELIEVE it is the fuel pump ticking. IF the fuel pump ticks then that is it. It has done it since I bought it. What will happen is, when I turn the key to warm up the plugs it will start ticking and it will do it while I'm warming up the plugs until I crank the tractor to start it. I'm pretty sure the ticking sound is coming from the fuel pump.


I will keep the starter/solenoid in mind also during diagnosis.

Thanks again.

 

[Big Trees]

And another thing, it was mentioned to me on the first page about the WSM for the B6000. I have that from the Kubota site but it only goes to page 52. Does anybody have anything more than the 52 page WSM from that site?

I would love to try to find the rest of it.

Thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

And another thing, it was mentioned to me on the first page about the WSM for the B6000. I have that from the Kubota site but it only goes to page 52. Does anybody have anything more than the 52 page WSM from that site?

I would love to try to find the rest of it.

Thanks.

Why do you think it goes past page 52?
That is the entire manual and it covers everything.

 

[Big Trees]

Why do you think it goes past page 52?
That is the entire manual and it covers everything.

NIW - Don't know how I missed your response, sorry.

52 pages isn't much and I know I"ve looked for some stuff and can't find it. One of them is the cooling system. I can't find any info in there at all about it.


- Update on problem. All along it was the pos battery cable. Looked good but apparently there was a break or corrosion under the insulation. Replaced the cable and it's been starting great.


Thanks for all of the help