Hi. I have T1760 and for past two years I've been having an issue when starting it. It clicks everytime but doesn't crank. It will start every 6-9 time. Sometimes I would drain the battery and after charging it and with battery charger set to start it would start right away. Two years ago I was told it's a solenoid, so I replaced it. On the weekend I removed starter and had it tested. Was told it was broken so I replaced it but the tractor is doing same think. What can I check/test to see what else can it be?
T1760 clicks but won't turn
- Thread starter jw10
- Start date
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Hold key to crank and jiggle the pto, seat safety, and brake lock switches. One of them is probably got a week/bad connection. Could also be the actual key switch but more than likely a safety switch or bad power wire. All of which can easily be tested with a multimeter.
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
Sounds to me you were given poor advice (sorry) and I personally would've checked BOTH ENDS of both battery cables.
I bet it's a poor ground (or the like)
Don't just look at it. Clean it.
Could also be an internally corroded battery wire.
I bet it's a poor ground (or the like)
Don't just look at it. Clean it.
Could also be an internally corroded battery wire.
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I assume that the solenoid is attached to the starter and was actually replaced twice now and was part of the new starter.
Please describe the click in more detail. Is it one hard click and nothing else except drawing amps but no spin? Or is it a chattering click until you release the key? Does the starter try to turn the engine at all and just slow turns when this happens?
Why is the battery going dead? Do you just keep trying over and over or does it go dead quickly?
How many cold cranking amps does the battery have? How old is the battery? Does it help if you use a jump start from car or other type of jump start pack? Can you use jumper cables directly to the starter terminal to see what that shows?
Can you safely jump the starter terminals to bypass the tractor’s wiring and see what happens (but don’t do this if you’re not confident in your safety)?
Can you take the battery out and have it load tested?
Don't know if the T1760 has the same combination box that the T1600 does. They can go bad as well as the corroded cables and other bad connections/switches. Mine finally died and it would click over the relays that were inside the combo box but the starter wouldn't spin. I installed a helper relay to get me by till it finally died.
Not a cheap little box btw.
Not a cheap little box btw.
Likely one of the many safety switches or the ign switch itself. Easiest and most reliable solution is to add a helper relay. I fought and fought with mine until someone (either here or another forum) said it's common. I cleaned cables, even went so far as to try testing with bypassed safeties, and new ign sw and still no love. Added helper relay and it fires right up every time
Yes. Solenoid replaced twice. The click is short, check this video https://youtube.com/shorts/OfBrb9DurYw?feature=share I bought the battery last year, it's 350 cold crank. It seems to start easier when I use jump start pack. I will try to jump start starter terminal after work today.
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I don’t know what your battery is supposed to be but 350 CCA may not be enough. But I will let someone else that knows more about your tractor and engine than I do (which is pretty easy to do!)
I would recommend going ahead with the helper relay and see if that resolves the issue - if you don’t need it then it doesn’t hurt anything except for your wallet for a few dollars.
I would recommend going ahead with the helper relay and see if that resolves the issue - if you don’t need it then it doesn’t hurt anything except for your wallet for a few dollars.
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
This certainly doesn't look "great". Might not be the issue, but if you had the capability to cut back and reinstall a fresh lug, that might be an easy thing to try.
I'm not holding it in my hand and seeing it up close so I am not certain if I am looking at good ol' dirt, or some green (here and there)_ from copper oxide which is an inhibitor to current flow. I do note at least one (maybe 2) broken strands. Yes, not the end of the world, but how many more are broken?
Not trying to be a jerk here. Trying to help you.
I'm not holding it in my hand and seeing it up close so I am not certain if I am looking at good ol' dirt, or some green (here and there)_ from copper oxide which is an inhibitor to current flow. I do note at least one (maybe 2) broken strands. Yes, not the end of the world, but how many more are broken?
Not trying to be a jerk here. Trying to help you.
I think I found an issue. I cleaned inside and connection on the ignition switch and it's been starting 100 % since. Before I cleaned it. I was getting 6V on the solenoid switch connection, now I'm getting close to 10V.
Another season and yet, another struggle to start that tractor... same as before clicks but doesn't crank, seems to help when I charge battery for 10 min and start with charge booster; the voltage before the ignition switch about 12.4V and when it doesn't start it drops to about 6.5V; when it starts it goes to about 8.59V; I have new ignition switch and it's doing the same thing. Could it be due to a dirty safety switch? I'm going mad here, want to start it and cut the grass
Any help or tips are greatly appreciated.
Any help or tips are greatly appreciated.thanks for reply, since voltage on the battery is over 12V and I replaced with another ignition switch, would you know what else can be causing the voltage to drop?
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The battery may be bad. You can have it load tested at an auto parts store to see how much the voltage on the battery drops under a load.
classic symptom of a voltage drop. Now the fun part, you get to find that voltage drop. Do a voltage drop test, using the wiring diagram to isolate that circuit and where it goes. It's likely a connector or connection.Another season and yet, another struggle to start that tractor... same as before clicks but doesn't crank, seems to help when I charge battery for 10 min and start with charge booster; the voltage before the ignition switch about 12.4V and when it doesn't start it drops to about 6.5V; when it starts it goes to about 8.59V; I have new ignition switch and it's doing the same thing. Could it be due to a dirty safety switch? I'm going mad here, want to start it and cut the grass
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Will it start if you jumper the solenoid terminal on the starter to the battery lug?Another season and yet, another struggle to start that tractor... same as before clicks but doesn't crank, seems to help when I charge battery for 10 min and start with charge booster; the voltage before the ignition switch about 12.4V and when it doesn't start it drops to about 6.5V; when it starts it goes to about 8.59V; I have new ignition switch and it's doing the same thing. Could it be due to a dirty safety switch? I'm going mad here, want to start it and cut the grass
Dan
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,