I have a kabota 3240 with 600 hours and for the past few days I have noticed an oil leak at the split pin plug under the clutch housing.While idling, it lost about a 1/8 cup in twenty minutes. Both engine and trans fluid levels are good for now. Researching has shown that it is probably the seal on the trans side. How big a job is that and when they talk about "Splitting" the engine, I don't get the lingo. I'm pretty handy with mechanics and would love to save the bucks if it's just a seal. Are there diagrams for this kind of work? Any suggestions?
split pin plug leak
- Thread starter Tuckler
- Start date
I would consider using a dye in the fluids to determine which is leaking, engine or trans.
http://www.tracerline.com/content/engine-oil
Is one product but there are others. You use a fluorescent light that comes with the kit to check for the dye.
I have found these dyes to be a big tiime saver looking for a leak.
Dave M7040
http://www.tracerline.com/content/engine-oil
Is one product but there are others. You use a fluorescent light that comes with the kit to check for the dye.
I have found these dyes to be a big tiime saver looking for a leak.
Dave M7040
Having determined which fluid is leaking ( and it is clear so I'm assuming trans), what are the steps in fixing this? Are there instruction manuals I can get?
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
My 5740 did that fairly early on, less than 100 hours, so it was fixed under warranty. It had to be split. According to the work shop manual, the cab was supposed to be removed, but the shop foreman found a way around that, but it was still a pretty big job. He installed an improved seal i it, cost of the seal was maybe twenty bucks, but the labor cost would have been really high.
My brother has split tractors and fixed them, but it's beyond my abilities, so I can't offer much help except from what I've seen in his shop, it is not something I would recommend a non mechanic doing.
You can get a WSM from your dealer.
My brother has split tractors and fixed them, but it's beyond my abilities, so I can't offer much help except from what I've seen in his shop, it is not something I would recommend a non mechanic doing.
You can get a WSM from your dealer.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Splitting the tractor means to pull the engine away from the trans or trans from rear end.
Get the WSM and it will spell out all that is involved.
Get the WSM and it will spell out all that is involved.
Now that I have observed this leak for a few days, I notice that there is no leak under normal operating conditions (mowing, road scraping). What caused it to leak at least one time was the box blade and tines plowing some very hard ground. It really got a work out. So I know I have a leak, but if I keep an eye on the fluids, am I causing harm to the tractor? Could I go along for awhile until paying to have it fixed is in the budget? Thanks for all the great responses.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
I am not a mechanic, so keep that in mind, but I was told to monitor my fluid levels and continue to use my tractor until they could get it into the shop. Like yours, mine was not a bad leak and never showed on the dipstick, if it had been constant, I would have just parked it.
Great news Triple R. If I could wait a few months it would sure help. Did they have an itemized cost of the work had it not been under warranty. was it just a seal? Trans or engine? Also, What would cause it to leak under more vigorous conditions and not under normal wear?
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apeckham
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Equipment
L3800HST, Buhler 6' Finish Mower, Land Pride APS500, Land Pride RB3774
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Tuckler, I didn't get an itemized bill on it that I remember, but I'll check. It was just a transmission seal. While this problem is not unknown, my dealer had never done one and originally thought it was a seal from the front wheel drive with the oil following the drive shaft down. They also replaced that while they had it torn down.
If the leak was caused by the heavy load I was putting on it, that still isn't right is it? I've had that tractor for 5 years and have put it through some pretty tough jobs, but sticking those tines 8" into undisturbed ground was quite punishing. Maybe I should have gone a little easier on it. It wasn't over heating, but is there something else I should be looking out for that I may be over taxing it. I love this tractor and it has allowed me to do some things to my 10 acres that I never would have been able to do, but I don't want to be abusing it.
Your leak is from the seal that seals the shaft for the 4wd from the transmission. It may not leak bad now, but it will get worse. There's a circlip, sealing bushing, seal, spacer, bearing, and another sealing bushing. When you pull the shaft out, you'll lose the coupler that attaches the shaft to the transmission, and you'll have to fish that and the sealing bushing out of the transmission housing. On a 40 series, you will not be able to get the coupler out of the housing, so the trick is to get it on the end of the shaft, and attach it to the shaft in the transmission. It's a trick..... I've done a few....
Replace the bearing, both sealing bushings, and seal. I believe they leak because the 4wd is left engaged in conditions that don't require it, especially on hard surfaces, and that shaft actually flexs, taking the seal out over time
Replace the bearing, both sealing bushings, and seal. I believe they leak because the 4wd is left engaged in conditions that don't require it, especially on hard surfaces, and that shaft actually flexs, taking the seal out over time
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
No, it's not right, I use an 1100 pound LP HR3584 on mine and really put stress on it and it doesn't leak.
apeckham
New member
Equipment
L3800HST, Buhler 6' Finish Mower, Land Pride APS500, Land Pride RB3774
Does the 3240 have a PCV valve or some other crankcase pressure relief set up on the valve cover? If it is restricted under heavy load the crankcase can build up enough pressure to force fluids by seals. Been there, done that.
Something simple to check and may not be your problem.
Something simple to check and may not be your problem.
I checked the vent on the fill cap and it is open. Don't know what else could be plugged to cause pressure. One drop of trans oil from the split pin after a day of hauling dirt. If his can last until late fall, I will bring it in to get fixed. It's way too big a job for me. Thanks folks.
Would love to know if there's a tip to do this on a 30-series. I had the prop shaft slide forward from the clutch housing on me when I had to reposition the tractor and the front driveshaft (under the oil pan) was removed. It felt like it slid forward not quite 1in. I was able to slide it back but now have a pretty hefty hydraulic leak from the split pin in the clutch housing and I can't tell if the 4wd is engaging (didn't want to drive it much with the leak, but it didn't feel like it). If there's any way to fix this without splitting the case I'm all ears
. Can a sleeve be slid along the mid-case shaft to possible push an oil seal back? The WSM images aren't the best for visualizing the arrangement in the mid-case.
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It's you fwd shaft seal on the trans side, I've replaced about 100 of them. I can do a split in and out in about 4 hours but I do it for a living. It's not a super difficult job but you will need the equipment and plan on a couple of days for your first try, additionally I have seen mechanics split a tractor 5 times after the knock a seal out when putting the 2 halves back together. If you want it done right, leave it to an equipment mechanic.
My 3240 did the same thing with about the same number of hours. It was an internal seal and had to be split. Kubota paid for the repair.