Spiked chains or ag tires on long grassy wet hill?

[klausorchard]

Hi. I am coming here after two days of research. I have recently bought an old Kubota F2000 (Diesel, 4x4, late 1980s model), which like all the "F" series is marketed as a front-end mower but which I use to haul a dump cart around my hobby farm, which includes a long grassy hill that can get wet at times. The F2000 came with turf tires.

My concern is with traction on the hill. I am leaning towards getting SPIKED chains for all four wheels as offered by Grizzlar and Tryggs. An alternative would be ag tires.

My unresolved questions are:

(1) Is there a common understanding among tractor owners if under the circumstances described and summer use, SPIKED chains or ag tires are strongly superior one way or the other? Does it make a difference in choosing, that for the F series, the big wheels are on front of the tractor?

(2) For using spiked chains in summer on a stony gravelly driveway, in addition to grass, wear and tear of the chain is an issue. The Grizzlars are 2-link v-bars and made of manganese steel ($130-180 per set for 23x10.5-12), the Tryggs are diamond-shaped with single spikes and made of boron steel, which is described as the best on the market ($300 per set). Would you pay the extra $$ for the Tryggs?

"A happy new Kubota owner deep in the rural Canadian Maritimes",
Kubota F2000 owner

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes spiked chains will give you more traction than the AG tires.
I personally would only chain the large front tires, back tires are basically for steering and power assist and are a lot smaller 4wd components and subject to greater wear and damage.
On turf tires you can use either ladder 4 link or diamond style chains so your choice.
That model does not weigh enough and will not see enough use to warrant the Boron chains, but again your choice.
Yes you can run them all the time, it will take years light use to wear them down.

 

[85Hokie]

The chains are going to be cheaper than getting new tires and rims (if needed)
The type of chain will depend on what you are tearing up!

One piece of advice - when GOING down the slope - place it in 4WD and ease off the pedal or the throttle and it will walk down the hill, DO AS I DID one time, NOT IN 4wd and started going down the long hill, started to pick up speed, tapped on the brakes - rear locked up! AND I was still moving quickly .........missed the trees, checked my shorts, cussed and then said to self - "next time dumbass, make sure it is in 4WD!"

Any kind of chain will help a lot - the gravel will eat them up a bit. I would get chains that have more bars across rather than sharp teeth...if that makes sense.

 

[klausorchard]

One piece of advice - when GOING down the slope - place it in 4WD and ease off the pedal or the throttle and it will walk down the hill

Thanks; and though off-topic for the thread, I plan to keep it in 4WD permanently, here on the farm. From what I read you only need to take it into 2WD if you go down a (paved) road or you worry about leaving marks.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Chains on my old tractor year round. Just easier to leave them on. Spinning wheels will be hard on the surface. Running chained up 4wd in gravel will be hard on driveline

 

[klausorchard]

Running chained up 4wd in gravel will be hard on driveline

Splendid point. It makes perfect sense. An aggressive chain prevents the necessary slippage that without chains would occur to make permanent 4WD safe on a farm dirt road. I am taking heed.

Thank you to all the contributers thus far.

 

[Diydave]

make sure you have enough side clearance for chains, on the inside of tire. Hoses and brake hardware is pretty close to the tire on these type machines, IIRR. Other than that, they handle like a pig on skates, in the snow...

 

[ShaunBlake]

Thanks; and though off-topic for the thread, I plan to keep it in 4WD permanently, here on the farm. From what I read you only need to take it into 2WD if you go down a (paved) road or you worry about leaving marks.

It isn't really off-topic since it has to do with the safe operation you're asking about.

One point I'd like to have you keep in mind: if you have to make very tight turns, it would be good to shift out of 4WD, especially if you need to help steer with your brakes.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It isn't really off-topic since it has to do with the safe operation you're asking about.

One point I'd like to have you keep in mind: if you have to make very tight turns, it would be good to shift out of 4WD, especially if you need to help steer with your brakes.

Shaun,
In this case it's actually the opposite, 4wd in needed to help steering or he will be going strait all the time.
He's using a little of an unconventional rig to do the job at hand.

And as a side note: If anyone has one of these they want to part with, Dead or broken preferred, give me a shout I want one!

Not his, just a random pic.

 

[klausorchard]

make sure you have enough side clearance for chains, on the inside of tire. Hoses and brake hardware is pretty close to the tire on these type machines,

Thank you! The big front wheels can be tilted in or out on the F2000, for two different front tire widths. It is a good question if the wider setting suffices. I do not know.

I just sent an email to my local Kubota dealership asking this question and enquired about the availability of wheel spacers.

(By the way, this is my first tractor! I obtained it inexpensively ($1800 Cdn) because it came without a mower and most people like 3-point hitch and rear PTO, and this tractor has neither and it was on the market for two weeks before I saw it. I jumped on it because for my hobby farm it does what I want: 4x4, Diesel, shaft-driven, heavy for its size (650 kg), moderate use (1450 hrs), and important for me, pulling power at the rear. For dump carts, for a self-powered tow-behind rough-cut mower like the Acrease models, maybe a tiller. It did come with a snowblade. From what I read, while it's marketed as a mower, at its base construction it's practically indistinguisable from the comparatively sized "B" series models, essentially a B series turned around. That's what I read anyway and made me jump on it.)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thank you! The big front wheels can be tilted in or out on the F2000, for two different front tire widths. It is a good question if the wider setting suffices. I do not know.

I just sent an email to my local Kubota dealership asking this question and enquired about the availability of wheel spacers.

(By the way, this is my first tractor! I obtained it inexpensively ($1800 Cdn) because it came without a mower and most people like 3-point hitch and rear PTO, and this tractor has neither and it was on the market for two weeks before I saw it. I jumped on it because for my hobby farm it does what I want: 4x4, Diesel, shaft-driven, heavy for its size (650 kg), moderate use (1450 hrs), and important for me, pulling power at the rear. For dump carts, for a self-powered tow-behind rough-cut mower like the Acrease models, maybe a tiller. It did come with a snowblade. From what I read, while it's marketed as a mower, at its base construction it's practically indistinguisable from the comparatively sized "B" series models, essentially a B series turned around. That's what I read anyway and made me jump on it.)

klausorchard,
I'm not knocking your choice at all! They are great units, they also can have a snowblower attached too!
And yes they are a B Drive and Engine.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I see the picture, green guys have the f series 931 and 933.
But front wheel drive only.
All kinds of attatchments. I mowed some rough terrain, short steep hills, it worked well but had to really be on your game.

Replaced the turfs with atv tires, made it a monster in the soft stuff. Used to get stuck on wet grass. Even with diff lock, had to stay away from any sort of soft ground.