torch
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B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
small chainsaw recommendations
- Thread starter dirtydeed
- Start date
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Torch - thanks buddyI think that's a sentiment that we can all agree with.
One would think that's a commonly agreeable statement.....
Somebody will have a rebuttal..….
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Not from me. (not that there's anything wrong with healthy debate)
Went to use my little itty bitty Husqvarna today and it was choking itself out under load. Maybe it was Karma, I don't know lol. But the damn thing was running like a striped ape just last week. I switched to Stihl Moto-Mix engineered fuel, about 2 months ago.
dirtydeed
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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Just placed an order for the Husky 440 II e-series with a 16" bar. It should do the trick with a different chain. I may get an 18" bar for it later if needed.
Thanks all for your suggestions. Much appreciated.
Thanks all for your suggestions. Much appreciated.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Súper!
I gave accolades to my Stihl MS211, and sure enough had an issue. Leaking bar oil pretty good.
Had seeped a while and got worse other day. New oil line on the way. Common problem for them.
Best of luck with your new saw!
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dirtydeed
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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Toyman
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B7100HST, 1630, 4' Tiller, 4' Rotary Mower; M4050 (SOLD) Woods Cadet 84
I had my 435 out on Tuesday evening for a tank of fuel clearing some paths at my hunting lease. Chain got a little dull from cutting stumps at ground level, but it ran like a champ. As far as the leaking chain oil, I have a Poulan Woodshark (10+ years old), a Jonesred 2255, and the Husky 435. If I don't store them all of them on their side (fill holes up) they leak bar oil all over my bench. I just thought that's the way it is?
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Different saws can be different issues. Fill caps do commonly leak, especially some of the "fancy" caps they have now-a-days.
With some small Stihls, the oil tube between the oil tank and pump are a common problem...a flange/grommet-type thingy that's supposed to seal the tank off gets brittle with age, etc.
Toyman
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B7100HST, 1630, 4' Tiller, 4' Rotary Mower; M4050 (SOLD) Woods Cadet 84
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I replaced the oil tube on the little MS211 today.
Hopefully it works. I didn’t want to tear the saw down enough to really clean the work area, but each point was clean on reassembly.
As I was cleaning the bar, I reminded my wife that when we were newlyweds, my normal Friday night routine was cleaning and sharpening my saw on the living room floor in preparation of a weekend’s spruce pulp cutting.
She said I can’t do that anymore....[emoji15]
Gonna leave it apart for a while to see if it leaks with a full bar oil tank..
PS - dirtydeed - Sorry for the highjack of your thread, but this isn’t worth a new one! [emoji41]
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Hopefully it works. I didn’t want to tear the saw down enough to really clean the work area, but each point was clean on reassembly.
As I was cleaning the bar, I reminded my wife that when we were newlyweds, my normal Friday night routine was cleaning and sharpening my saw on the living room floor in preparation of a weekend’s spruce pulp cutting.
She said I can’t do that anymore....[emoji15]
Gonna leave it apart for a while to see if it leaks with a full bar oil tank..
PS - dirtydeed - Sorry for the highjack of your thread, but this isn’t worth a new one! [emoji41]
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My only issue with late model Stihl's in general is, they are extremely chocked up in the muffler department. First thing I do is take the muffler off and open it up with a Dremel and let it breathe. Well documented mod on You-Tube and worth it.
If you want a real Stihl I own a 60's 075 with a 4 foot bar. That, is a saw.
Never use the artifical gas either. Always leaded regular (non-E) and stihl pre mix oil. Canned gas isn't gas at all, it's paint thinner.
If you want a real Stihl I own a 60's 075 with a 4 foot bar. That, is a saw.
Never use the artifical gas either. Always leaded regular (non-E) and stihl pre mix oil. Canned gas isn't gas at all, it's paint thinner.
Takes power to pull skip tooth square chipper and knowing how to sharpen it is a plus too. Hard to beat for bucking downed trunks though. Those guys you see in the competitions are running skip tooth square chipper.
The 4 foot roller nose is all the 75 can handle and when she idles, she sounds like a motorcross bike. I rarely use it. One, it's heavy and two, no chain brake and my left leg will attest to what 404 square tooth chipper can do. 185 stitches and almost bled out going to the hospital. ER doctor quipped what a clean cut it was and I responded that I keep my chains sharp. I get to look at my stupidity every day. Needless to say, I wear competition Kevlar chaps now.
Almost bought a 90G back then and probably should have. They are worth big bucks today, more than they sold for new.
You wind that sucker up and lay it in an oak trunk and it's amazing.
I'd sell it but it's very collectable and no plastic anywhere (except the shroud), all magnesium, so it sits in the shop for something to play with. My 028 is the same (no plastic) Stihl only made the 028 for 2 years in the 60's. She's an RPM saw, sounds like a banshee free revving. Getting hard to get parts for but Bailey's usually has what I need. They made the 'Farm Boss 028 for a number of years, my 028 and a Farm Boss are 2 different animals. Farm Boss was a consumer saw, the 028 is a professional arborist saw.
I tend to use the more modern MS saw. Lighter and easier to handle. I also have a Stihl top handle professional arborist saw. Great for one handed stuff. Very expensive and in need of a muffler job from the get go.
Have an FS66 straight shaft brush cutter too. Another oldie but goodie. Stihl licensed a Japanese company to build them. No muffler issues with that.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
It's a Stihl MS211 I'm working on.
Bar isn't burnt and the saw isn't filthy.
Dirtydeed- my apologies for the detour on your thread ....
Geez, I thought a simple repair post would be simple....
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Bar isn't burnt and the saw isn't filthy.
Dirtydeed- my apologies for the detour on your thread ....
Geez, I thought a simple repair post would be simple....
Sent from my QTASUN1 using Tapatalk
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dirtydeed
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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
No problemo...I'm good.
My only issue is that my new "miniscule" saw was delivered yesterday. I ordered one that had the toolless chain tensioner...That's not what was delivered. I've never used one of those before and thought it could be a handy gadget. However, I just don't think it's worth sending it back and having the very same one sent a second time. I guess I'll just have to make do with the scrench model.
anyone have any experience with the tooless adjusters? Are they just a gimmick with more crap to break?
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RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Dirtydeed - she runs like a champ, and not a drip!!
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Tooless is nice but, certainly no biggie. Some of my first 'big box' saws were tooless. Honestly, having to get out the universal tool is a non-issue. What matters more is captivated nuts.
I had one tooless saw that used a thumbwheel to adjust the chain. you'd fubble with it for twenty turns only to realize you went the wrong way. So the screwdriver chain adjuster that requires a turn or two (even the wrong way) is really easier.
A good saw only needs the chain adjusted once a day at most. New chain takes a few adjustments until it settles, then if you do not over load and over heat the chain. it does not really wear (nor does the bar) so adjustments become few and far between.
I now have two Sthil's, a little MS193 and a midsized MS261CM. I like the ease of starting the 261 with the electronic carb, it runs the same summer and winter, with the decomp, it is a easy to handle hold in the mid air and pull. The 193 weighs nothing and makes little jobs a breeze.
I only run the Sthil fuel. My dealer does all running repairs for lifetime free if you only use that fuel. Between the saws and my Combi (trimmer and pole saw) I get a case of fuel to last about 18 months. Cheap insurance.
The biggest thing I can say from my 20 years of tree work here in VA is to learn how to correctly sharpen a chain. It used to be a big ordeal and I'd file the teeth off!. In reality, it is five minutes just kissing the tips of the teeth.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Dirtydeed- one last diversion.
Put a new spark plug in 046 Magnum and cleaned out air filter.
I personally would prefer a traditional chain tension mechanism. Like you say, I’d be concerned with the tool-less types working properly.
Thanks so much for letting me join in with your thread!
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Put a new spark plug in 046 Magnum and cleaned out air filter.
I personally would prefer a traditional chain tension mechanism. Like you say, I’d be concerned with the tool-less types working properly.
Thanks so much for letting me join in with your thread!
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