Shaver HD10 post driver hooking up onto a L3130

GeoMT_2023

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Hi there,
Looking for some advice for hooking up and old Shaver HD10 post driver to a L3130.

This post driver has only one hydraulic valve, to actuate the post driver. (Rest is manual.)

My understanding is these drivers need their output low pressure line to go directly to the tank, as it's it's just a dump at that point. The weight of the ram and springs do the work, not the hydraulics. (hence the gland or piston in the cylinder is just a star.. it doesn't really seal anything, for long)

My tractor has a power beyond hose and return installed from the FEL circuit and returns back to the block under the step.
This is what was installed: https://www.tractorinnovations.com/powerbeyond
I think the return is really feeding the 3 point, as it's next in line. The power beyond setup I have goes from the FEL, to the rear of the tractor (when not used, in a loop connected to itself and then back to the block to feed the 3 point.

My intention was to install a 1-spool valve with a detent (to keep the valve open when in use) that hooks into my rear power beyond couplers. The incoming rear power beyond hose (via a coupler) would go to the valve.

Hooking up this remote valve.. not sure if I have to tee the tank link in the system someplace for the valve and then add another power beyond plug on the value so it can feed 3 point hitch back at the block.

The output of the valve would use ONE of the implement "out" ports and hook that into the post driver's valve.

I would also ensure the Shaver's HD10 valve was using an open-center plug. (hopefully I can do that and find one for my valve, it looks old. )
The HD10's big 1" output hose would use an adapter to dump into my threaded fill plug.

Will this setup work? do I need to be concerned about dead-heading my open center pump with this arrangement? Bonus question, does anyone know if an open center plug can be added to this Gresen valve on the HD10 driver?
Thanks!
 

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hodge

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We have an HD 10 that we use on our Deere 5065E. We use the supply port on the remote. We use the fill point on the rear axle for the dump/return. It has enough force when evacuating the oil that we bungy the hose in place. Dad runs the tractor and activates the remote, and I run the driver.
 

GeoMT_2023

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I'll defer to @TheOldHokie to tell you how to hook it up properly.
Yeah, I've seen some good posts of his. I based my idea how to hook this up after his post here:

But that was for an older tractor that I don't think already had a power beyond port on the FEL.

I think this should work.

I'm not entirely sure how I hook up the remote valve and keep the 3 point hitch functional. As I really need that to work to move the tractor with the driver on, etc.

My only concern is to have the the single spool remote valve I'm considering adding to the power beyond ports on the rear of my tractor... if having the remote valve held open by the detent would create pressure issues while the post driver valve (the Gresen in the pics) was closed and not pounding.

The other concern is the dump of low pressure fluid to the fill port.. I hope whatever breather the L3130 system has, that it's robust enough to handle a surge of fluid from the driver. I know it's low pressure, but it's a large volume. That's got to create air pressure in the tank, if the breather can't deal with it. I sure don't want to blow a seal on my tractor someplace. But I guess these drivers are used by lots of other folks including other Kabota owners.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Yeah, I've seen some good posts of his. I based my idea how to hook this up after his post here:

But that was for an older tractor that I don't think already had a power beyond port on the FEL.

I think this should work.

I'm not entirely sure how I hook up the remote valve and keep the 3 point hitch functional. As I really need that to work to move the tractor with the driver on, etc.

My only concern is to have the the single spool remote valve I'm considering adding to the power beyond ports on the rear of my tractor... if having the remote valve held open by the detent would create pressure issues while the post driver valve (the Gresen in the pics) was closed and not pounding.

The other concern is the dump of low pressure fluid to the fill poort.. I hope whatever breather the L3130 system has, that it's robust enough to handle a surge of fluid from the driver. I know it's low pressure, but it's a large volume. That's got to create air pressure in the tank, if the breather can't deal with it. I sure don't want to blow a seal on my tractor someplace. But I guess these drivers are used by lots of other folks including other Kabota owners.
I did not watch tje entire video but itvseems like that "power behond" kit is just a loop going to the rear and yes the return hose goes to the 3pt so ots not suitable for the return on your post driver.

The simplest hookup is to use the supply side of the power beyond kit to supply the post driver and plumb the 1" return to the filler. That works fine for driving posts but it disables the 3pt which you need when transporting tje pounder.

So you need some way to switch tje return between the three point and the filler as needed.

You could put a 3 way selector valve on the post pounder return and run one side of the selector to tank and the other to tje power byond return.

Alternatively ypu could replumb that power beyond hose kit to feed an open center directional control valve (DCV) and one or more sets oF remote outlets. That gives you conventional outlets controlled by the DCV. To use those outlets for the post driver you would plug the post pounder into one of the couplers and run the rryurn strsight to sump. The otjer outlet does not get used. When you are setup and ready to pound a post operate the DCV to send oil to the post pounder and hold it there wiith s bungee or detent. When finished poundimg release tje bungee/detent and the lever reyurns to neutral. That shuts off tje oil to the post pounder and reroutes blow to the 3pt.

Option 2 is more complicated and expensive but it gives you "real" rear remotes which can be used for more than the post pounder - e.g hydraulic top link,TNT, etc.

Clear ad mud?

Dan
 

GeoMT_2023

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Alternatively ypu could replumb that power beyond hose kit to feed an open center directional control valve (DCV) and one or more sets oF remote outlets. That gives you conventional outlets controlled by the DCV. To use those outlets for the post driver you would plug the post pounder into one of the couplers and run the rryurn strsight to sump. The otjer outlet does not get used. When you are setup and ready to pound a post operate the DCV to send oil to the post pounder and hold it there wiith s bungee or detent. When finished poundimg release tje bungee/detent and the lever reyurns to neutral. That shuts off tje oil to the post pounder and reroutes blow to the 3pt.

Option 2 is more complicated and expensive but it gives you "real" rear remotes which can be used for more than the post pounder - e.g hydraulic top link,TNT, etc.
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking of doing. Using a valve like this:
The kind with detents...
(and maybe 2 spools, but keeping it simple for this example)

I'd run the "live" power beyond line to the "input" of the valve, and the output of the power behind loop to the "tank return" of the valve. I've attached the drawing.

All I have to do then is make sure I have and "open center" plug on my Gresen post pounder valve, right? and of course some kind of graceful output to my fill port of my hydraulic system for the driver low pressure output.

Am I on the right track?
 

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TheOldHokie

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Yeah, I've seen some good posts of his. I based my idea how to hook this up after his post here:

But that was for an older tractor that I don't think already had a power beyond port on the FEL.

I think this should work.

I'm not entirely sure how I hook up the remote valve and keep the 3 point hitch functional. As I really need that to work to move the tractor with the driver on, etc.

My only concern is to have the the single spool remote valve I'm considering adding to the power beyond ports on the rear of my tractor... if having the remote valve held open by the detent would create pressure issues while the post driver valve (the Gresen in the pics) was closed and not pounding.

The other concern is the dump of low pressure fluid to the fill port.. I hope whatever breather the L3130 system has, that it's robust enough to handle a surge of fluid from the driver. I know it's low pressure, but it's a large volume. That's got to create air pressure in the tank, if the breather can't deal with it. I sure don't want to blow a seal on my tractor someplace. But I guess these drivers are used by lots of other folks including other Kabota owners.
Some diagrams to illustrate my previous answer:

Here is what you currently have - just a power beyond loop going to the back. In and Out are looped together when you are not using them for an implement

Untitled.png


To add a directional control valve to that loop you plump it like this. The tank line should be a permanent connection.

Untitled.png


To use the DCV to supply the post pounder you hook it up like this.The large blue tank return from the post pounder can be stuck in the open filler port - no vent or back pressure issues there. When you are operating the post pounder valve its just like any other hydraulic load and the relief valves protect against any momentary over pressure conditions. I would not stop with a single spool DCV - at least two spools and two sets of outlets.

Untitled.png
 
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GeoMT_2023

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Thanks Dan, this helps a lot. So, the tank line coming from the DCV... I need to tap into my tank line somewhere for that, right? Would teeing in at the block where my FEL power beyond port be a good place to do this? Is this the right place for a L3130?

1711939026621.png


And if I got DCV valve, I'd need to get the power beyond plug for it, run that to the 3 point hitch at the block above and then tee into the tank fitting circled in red?

So, in this diagram below, the purple would go the 3 ph valve and the tank out would go to the red circled above?

1711939198535.png
 

TheOldHokie

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Thanks Dan, this helps a lot. So, the tank line coming from the DCV... I need to tap into my tank line somewhere for that, right? Would teeing in at the block where my FEL power beyond port be a good place to do this? Is this the right place for a L3130?

View attachment 125370

And if I got DCV valve, I'd need to get the power beyond plug for it, run that to the 3 point hitch at the block above and then tee into the tank fitting circled in red?

So, in this diagram below, the purple would go the 3 ph valve and the tank out would go to the red circled above?

View attachment 125372
Thats correct. The L3130 has a tank return port on the side of the transmission under the seat thats used for the factory rear remotes. Depending on where you mount the DCV using it might be a little more convenient and neater than running a hose back to the tank port om the outlet block. I think its a slip fit with o-ring so you might need to get creative if using it. Here is a link to the parts diagram for the factory remotes. The tank return is pipe number 110.


Dan
 
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GeoMT_2023

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Thats correct. The L3130 has a tank return port on the side of the transmission under the seat thats used for the factory rear remotes. Depending on where you mount the DCV using it might be a little more convenient and neater than running a hose back to the tank port om the outlet block. I think its a slip fit with o-ring so you might need to get creative if using it. Here is a link to the parts diagram for the factory remotes. The tank return is pipe number 110.


Dan
Thanks again. I dunno, I'm not sure how creative I'm feeling about the tank return tied to that input for the pipe under the seat. What kind of fitting would you use to do that anyhow? If I did that, what would you use?


Since I'll have to have a power beyond line running to the outlet block (from the new DCV to the 3-point port), anyhow I may just tie into the tank return from the DCV there. I might have to modify the tank return line coming from the FEL from a 90 to a straight fitting, and then put the tee on there, but I think I can get it so it won't look too ham fisted
 

TheOldHokie

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Thanks again. I dunno, I'm not sure how creative I'm feeling about the tank return tied to that input for the pipe under the seat. What kind of fitting would you use to do that anyhow? If I did that, what would you use?


Since I'll have to have a power beyond line running to the outlet block (from the new DCV to the 3-point port), anyhow I may just tie into the tank return from the DCV there. I might have to modify the tank return line coming from the FEL from a 90 to a straight fitting, and then put the tee on there, but I think I can get it so it won't look too ham fisted
Wengers has a used tank retur pipe for $20. That and a hose clamp or two will get you hooked in there.

Hydraulic block is easy enough just kind of ugly. and exposed. You can probably make this work.

6600-PNG~2.jpg


Dan
 

GeoMT_2023

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Wengers has a used tank retur pipe for $20. That and a hose clamp or two will get you hooked in there.

Hydraulic block is easy enough just kind of ugly. and exposed. You can probably make this work.

View attachment 125421

Dan
Yeah that's exactly what I was thinking of using, for a TEE. I'm still mulling over the under-seat aux tank return with the modified tube.. I guess I was thinking the tank return was high pressure, but not so much?
So low enough pressure I can use band clamps.. and not worry if I modified the 110 tube you mentioned.

Sadly, that Wengers used tube is sold.. New ones are $60. Not sure its worth it. I"ll debate what to do....

1711994420271.png