RS1 Tiller
- Thread starter Tomcat
- Start date
Is it the bolt holding the yoke of the PTO to the shaft of tiller? (From you're picture it appears to be a phillips head screw.)
Is the yoke loose on the shaft?
If you're determined to remove the broken bolt, I would suggest getting a nut larger then the bolt dia., set it on top where the head of the bolt should be and weld it to the broken bolt.
The heat from the weld will help to break rust loose, but before you try to turn the welded nut give a good bath of KROIL or similar solvent. A 50/50 solution of acetone and auto. transmission fluid works excellent, also BUT acetone is flammable!!
Turn the nut clockwise a deg. and counter-clockwise a deg. to try to get any movement. Don't just try to power it out right away counterclockwise.
A wire welder is easier to get to the top of the broken bolt, but with a steady hand a stick welder will work fine. Get good perpetration at the bottom and come up making it one glob of metal (with a hex shape on the outside).
Have fun.....or just use it as it is for a while!
Is the yoke loose on the shaft?
If you're determined to remove the broken bolt, I would suggest getting a nut larger then the bolt dia., set it on top where the head of the bolt should be and weld it to the broken bolt.
The heat from the weld will help to break rust loose, but before you try to turn the welded nut give a good bath of KROIL or similar solvent. A 50/50 solution of acetone and auto. transmission fluid works excellent, also BUT acetone is flammable!!
Turn the nut clockwise a deg. and counter-clockwise a deg. to try to get any movement. Don't just try to power it out right away counterclockwise.
A wire welder is easier to get to the top of the broken bolt, but with a steady hand a stick welder will work fine. Get good perpetration at the bottom and come up making it one glob of metal (with a hex shape on the outside).
Have fun.....or just use it as it is for a while!
D2Cat: It's the bolt holding the yoke on the tiller shaft and it moves with a little help. I wanted to take it off so I could clean things up before greasing. Thanks for your suggestions about repairing the old bolt head and taking it off! Hopefully I won't need to do that anytime soon.
If there is a little movement you might give it a spray of "something" to break up rust and lube. After some use you might be able to get a left hand drill bit. Put a punch mark in the center of the broken bolt, and start drilling with a dia. that won't get to the threads. Often the broken part will screw on out as the bit catches the iron.
Was spoiled in the "old country" about being able to go to the hardware store and getting an EZ-Out. I got the shaft greased up and ready to go, I think
I ran out of sunlight. Will give it a try tomorrow.BTW, did you get my PM? I forgot to mention that my Grandpa's farm is at the bottom of Perry Reservoir....er...Lake Perry.
Couldn't really test it as all the ground around here is like concrete this time of year. Engaged at PTO #1 (540 rpm) and ran for a couple of minutes with no unusual noises. On the way back to the barn I found out what the rear wheels were really for. They're not depth/guide wheels - they're wheelie bars! I really need to get some weight on the front.
I'm guessing that the cement-head that put different size tines on is also the guy that used a motorcycle mirror stem in place of the tine shaft shear bolt!!!! Anyone care to guess what size I need?
Anyone care to guess what size I need?