Hello all....can anyone tell me if a rototiller slip clutch will slip if it has already been slipped. I know that sounds weird..i backed off the spring nuts on the clutch quite alot and turned pto on and it didnt slip. If someone at the dealer already slipped it before delivery...would i not be able to do it? Thanks for any help....i have a landpride rta 1258 tiller
Rototiller slip clutch help
- Thread starter dwelling21
- Start date
Paint a line across all exterior surfaces of the clutch, on the outside diameter. If the lines don't line up, then its slipping...
Yes, with spring pressure backed off the tines should stop. The friction discs should float or move with a screw driver careful not to get to aggressive with the screw driver.
Pat
Pat
A slip clutch needs to be adjusted. Many pieces of equipment come with a slip clutch and the owner hooks it to a tractor and never thinks about it.
You loosen and tighten the bolts equally. When you loosen them the clutch slips easier, tighten the bolts pinches the fiber disc and makes a tighter clutch.
The newer clutches no longer have asbestos in the lining and if they aren't used regularly or slipped once in a while everything bonds together and you lose the protection.
You loosen and tighten the bolts equally. When you loosen them the clutch slips easier, tighten the bolts pinches the fiber disc and makes a tighter clutch.
The newer clutches no longer have asbestos in the lining and if they aren't used regularly or slipped once in a while everything bonds together and you lose the protection.
Slip clutches can get seized in place if they don't get "spun" periodically. Sort of like brake shoes that don't work right on a a car that has been sitting for too long.
As Pat says, when that happens you need to loosen the springs enough so you can gently separate the clutch plates and then tighten them back. I like to use something very fine and sharp to get them apart, like a box cutter blade. Once a tiny gap is made, the discs should separate easily.
Once you have gotten the discs separated, it's time to re-tighten them. Adjusting them to the proper pressure is a matter of trial and error.
Try to use the same number of turns on each spring when loosening and tightening so the pressure on the clutch discs is consistent.
As Pat says, when that happens you need to loosen the springs enough so you can gently separate the clutch plates and then tighten them back. I like to use something very fine and sharp to get them apart, like a box cutter blade. Once a tiny gap is made, the discs should separate easily.
Once you have gotten the discs separated, it's time to re-tighten them. Adjusting them to the proper pressure is a matter of trial and error.
Try to use the same number of turns on each spring when loosening and tightening so the pressure on the clutch discs is consistent.
Wow...thanks for the replies...such a helpful group!....i will keep working on the slip clutch and use this info....thanks so much everyone.
Surface corrosion can bond the clutch surfaces together. Every Spring, I back the nuts off, make sure the two sides are seperated, then torque them down to 13 ft. lbs.
It is possible that an employee at the dealership, or the manufacturer, could torque them down too tight to slip. I had new rims put on my truck last year, and they put over 100 pounds of air in each tire. My pressure gauge only read to 50, and it took 45 seconds to get the pressure down to the point the gauge would read! Never assume that things are torqued or set right- check it yourself.
It is possible that an employee at the dealership, or the manufacturer, could torque them down too tight to slip. I had new rims put on my truck last year, and they put over 100 pounds of air in each tire. My pressure gauge only read to 50, and it took 45 seconds to get the pressure down to the point the gauge would read! Never assume that things are torqued or set right- check it yourself.