removing steering wheel
- Thread starter Bill8200
- Start date
Lugbolt, a member with a wealth of practical experience said:
Some of the older equipment that's been stuck on for decades? Cut the wheel off. Had to do that a bunch of times. They don't go on that tight, but they have a taper on the wheel and a taper on the shaft; once they are locked together for a while, they are just locked and can be a pain
Dave
Magicman
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
I don't know your definition of "tapping" but mine ain't a tap. Tighten the wheel puller up tight, put your legs/knees under the wheel and add as much uplift as you can and give the wheel puller rap like you mean business because that's the only thing that will remove the wheel. If it didn't come off then add more pressure to the puller and with your knees and hit harder. Yes, it will pop off.
Edit: I didn't catch Dave_eng's reply. Try hard(er) before you use the last resort of cutting.
Edit: I didn't catch Dave_eng's reply. Try hard(er) before you use the last resort of cutting.
Last edited:
Sounds like I need more umpfh. Thought I was bringing the pain but I’ll try more. I backed off because the jaws started digging into the steering wheel and damaging it. I was even using a Johnson bar on my wrench. I got more leverage but I also got steering wheel damage.
I know you have to ask; yes I did. It’s like a motor that won’t start, you just have to ask if it has gas.
The notches beneath the arms of my wheel are factory.
Here’s what you can do to remove a really stuck steering wheel:
Using a puller (3-jaw in this case)... LOOSEN a few turns but do NOT remove the nut....tension the puller as much as you dare... then using a hammer against the central-screw of the puller... Strike it smartly! This will transmit a shock to the spline-shaft (but the nut will prevent damage to it and also prevent the wheel from flying off the shaft.)
If the wheel did not move: Then tighten the puller again with addt’l tension and Strike the central-screw again.
This is the way we removed stuck steering wheels from classic cars when we were afraid of damaging them and it worked every time.
Here’s what you can do to remove a really stuck steering wheel:
Using a puller (3-jaw in this case)... LOOSEN a few turns but do NOT remove the nut....tension the puller as much as you dare... then using a hammer against the central-screw of the puller... Strike it smartly! This will transmit a shock to the spline-shaft (but the nut will prevent damage to it and also prevent the wheel from flying off the shaft.)
If the wheel did not move: Then tighten the puller again with addt’l tension and Strike the central-screw again.
This is the way we removed stuck steering wheels from classic cars when we were afraid of damaging them and it worked every time.
In addition to the puller being tightened down well, an air chisel with a planishing hammer installed in it could be the answer to breaking it loose. The rapid beating/vibrations on the end of the puller bolt will loosen alot of stuck together parts!
Donystoy
Active member
Equipment
LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
I couldn't remove my wheel either after 35 years. Ended up making a proper puller that went under the base of the wheel. Still needed a lot of tightening before it popped off. I was afraid of damaging the gear box if I hammered too hard.
put tension on the puller, then give the the puller a tap with a hammer.
"should" pop right off.
I utilized the 3 holes at the bottom of the steering wheel.
I found the appropriate sized washers that are larger than the holes but won't interfere with the plastic/rubber skirt of the steering wheel. Then with a little "finagling" with the bolts I used the puller as intended.
I used this kind of puller.
"should" pop right off.
I utilized the 3 holes at the bottom of the steering wheel.
I found the appropriate sized washers that are larger than the holes but won't interfere with the plastic/rubber skirt of the steering wheel. Then with a little "finagling" with the bolts I used the puller as intended.
I used this kind of puller.
My local Kubota dealer is also a Carquest (I think I spelled that correctly) store and they will "loan" out almost all specialty tools for a deposit only. I only recently have purchased a Kubota tractor, but have used the Carquest side many times over the past 30+ years, and they have always been very helpful. Have you tried to inquire to them about this and see if they can help or provide guidance?
I have been there so many times over the years, that many of the mechanics have lent me their own "specialty" tools for some projects.
I have a friend coming over this weekend. He says we’ll get the thing off. Thanks for the reply!!
Finally got the wheel off. A buddy who has done it before said I needed to whack the center really hard while the two of us pull up really hard on the wheel. He did admit it was one of the tougher ones, but we got ‘er. Thanks for all the input. After that it was on to the real job of replacing the voltage regulator. I think it was causing my brand new battery to over charge and leak out.
Magicman
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
Put a dab of Anti-Seize on the shaft when you reinstall the steering wheel and tighten the nut very lightly.
Magicman
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
Strangely enough, Tuesday I installed a horn on my tractor and had to remove the steering wheel. Since the nut/lock washer had not been snugged down, I removed them with a 6" crescent wrench leaving the nut well above the "anti-seized" shaft end. With my knees below the steering wheel and pushing up, I gave the nut a rap and off came the steering wheel. 
AND...when you reinstall that steering-wheel..... it is UNNECESSARY to tighten that top-nut than slightly-more than finger-tight.... after first painting the shaft-splines with anti-seize.