i borrowed a steering wheel puller for obvious reasons, but i'm not sure if i don't know how to use it or there are different types and this isn't what i need. i have a pretty good idea of what should be happening but i don't see how this one does that.
removing steering wheel
- Thread starter Bill8200
- Start date
That puller will not work for you due to its design. Not sure what you would use as its all plastic and a 3 jaw puller would probably break it. When I took mine off I was able to tap it lightly with a dead blow hammer. Didn't take much for it to move.
A Kubota wheel puller features a metal horseshoe or U shaped piece to fit under the steering wheel. The puller connects to this U so that the pulling forces are widely distributed on the plastic wheel.
A do it yourself trick goes like this:
Loosen nut until it is flush with the top of the shaft.
Sit on the seat and using your legs push up on the underside of the steering wheel.
Use a real hammer, not a carpenters hammer, and give a couple of short sharp hits to the end of the shaft.
If you are lucky the wheel will pop free.
Dave
A do it yourself trick goes like this:
Loosen nut until it is flush with the top of the shaft.
Sit on the seat and using your legs push up on the underside of the steering wheel.
Use a real hammer, not a carpenters hammer, and give a couple of short sharp hits to the end of the shaft.
If you are lucky the wheel will pop free.
Dave
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
And spray it with a penetrating oil like PB Blaster before you start (a day or two before starting if possible)
+1 on the PBlaster. They don't fit all that tight. It will come off with some gentle persuasion.
i made my own puller out of a bearing separator just drilled 3 holes in it 120 deg apart, then used it on the bottom of the wheel and a standard 3 bolt harmonic balancer puller on top. Most of the time it worked. Some of the older equipment that's been stuck on for decades? Cut the wheel off. Had to do that a bunch of times. They don't go on that tight, but they have a taper on the wheel and a taper on the shaft; once they are locked together for a while, they are just locked and can be a pain or they can pop right off...never know until you do it. A lot like ball joints on cars but there isn't a good tool to remove steering wheels that don't have 3 bolts in 'em.
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
I have used the first half of this method many times... second part is an air hammer with a flat hammer head bit. If possible get a hefty brass drift between the steering shaft and hammer head to minimize mushrooming.
I have had my steering wheel on/off a half dozen times using an ordinary Horrible Fright 3-jaw gear puller. The plastic wheel has not been damaged at all. (There are 3 notches underneath which mate with the jaws perfectly.)
Interesting, you use it several times, brag about how well it work but call the store you bought it from in a demeaning way.
Kind of like folks who complain about the food in a restaurant, and keep going back!
Kind of like folks who complain about the food in a restaurant, and keep going back!
Bingo.
I have never found one that I could not remove (with or without a helper) by removing the shaft nut and washer (if present), then threading the nut back on but leaving it a couple of turns loose.
Now use your knees as suggested or a helper to apply upward force to the wheel while striking the end of the steering shaft with a brass hammer or a steel hammer and a piece of hard brass.
Leaving the nut on but loose prevents the wheel (and helper) from flying off and cleans up any damage to the threads upon removal.
SDT
'cause the food is cheap and the waitresses wear revealing outfits.....Interesting, you use it several times, brag about how well it work but call the store you bought it from in a demeaning way.
Kind of like folks who complain about the food in a restaurant, and keep going back!
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I laugh about this thread a little.....couple years ago was up in the woods in a real steep spot and my steering wheel came off the shaft in my hands.....
Trust me, remote control or drive by wire didn’t work, as much as I worked the wheel for a couple seconds.....
I probably looked like 1/3 of The Stooges.....
Trust me, remote control or drive by wire didn’t work, as much as I worked the wheel for a couple seconds.....
I probably looked like 1/3 of The Stooges.....
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Ok, so this has been a bear to get loose using some of the alternative methods. I have a 3 jaw puller hooked up to it now. It still seems pretty tight. what I want to know is do I have the jaws pulling the right part of the wheel or do I need to drop down to the lower black part? PLEASE EXPAND THE PHOTO. It doesn’t show the entire picture (at least on my phone).
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I didn’t complain about the tool. (And if I didn’t like the food in a restaurant would NOT go back.)Interesting, you use it several times, brag about how well it work but call the store you bought it from in a demeaning way.
Kind of like folks who complain about the food in a restaurant, and keep going back!
You just like to find fault with people.
My “Horrible Fright” comment was only a joke because MOST of the tools there are cheaply-made and cheaply-priced.... both of which sometimes serves a purpose. It’s Horrible in my view that American Tool-makers no longer compete with cheaply-made foreign tools (thanks to Nixon and Reagan and Clinton). And it Fright-ening because I‘m worried about our ability to remain a world-leader and that my children and grandchildren will have to pay-OFF that debt and suffer a lower standard of living as the result.
Perhaps that makes no difference to you...
The lower part in your marked up photo is just a plastic cap to keep dirt out.
If you are determined to mangle your wheel with the three jaw puller, why not use a hacksaw or angle grinder to cut back the steering wheel plastic to try and expose some steel to hook unto with the jaws
Dave
Not all HF tools are of questionable quality. In fact some directly compete and perform better than brand names. Case in point, the ICON torque wrenches. I have the 1/2 drive and the 3/8 drive and both outperform Snap On and Williams in repeated torque stability and accuracy for about 1/4th the cost (Have Snap On as well). Why pay upwards of 600 bucks for a torque wrench (I paid close to 6 for the Snap On tears ago) when the ICON costs a tad over 100 bucks for the 1/2 drive and 95 for the 3/8".
In fact the only difference between the Snap On and the Williams versus the ICON is the name etched in the barrel. They are identical in every way which tells me the factory in China that makes the ICON's is also making the Williams and the Snap On. Exactly the same except it don't say Snap On or Williams on the barrel, says ICON instead. Actually, the ICON is a bit better, not only in torque vales but the ratchet head has a finer tooth pitch so you don't have to swing the wrench nearly as far to engage the pawl.
What differentiates the also ran torque wrenches (HF low cost ones and Sunnex among others) is, a quality wrench will indicate both right and LEFT hand torque and I use left hand torque regularly.
I checked the indicated torque value against my buddy's Starrett torque master and it's right on the bean +- 1%. Snap On on +-3%
Another good example is the Zurich code readers. Just as good as Snap On for 1/4 the cost. Have a Zurich too. The Zurich will diagnose OBD codes but it will also tell you what component needs replaced.
Just used it on an evap issue and it told me what component needed replaced, I replace the listed component and viola, no codes. Better than throwing expensive parts at an issue and hoping for the best.
I joke about HF, call it Hardon Fright but they do have quality tools and some one use junk as well. A depends on what you are looking for.
In fact the only difference between the Snap On and the Williams versus the ICON is the name etched in the barrel. They are identical in every way which tells me the factory in China that makes the ICON's is also making the Williams and the Snap On. Exactly the same except it don't say Snap On or Williams on the barrel, says ICON instead. Actually, the ICON is a bit better, not only in torque vales but the ratchet head has a finer tooth pitch so you don't have to swing the wrench nearly as far to engage the pawl.
What differentiates the also ran torque wrenches (HF low cost ones and Sunnex among others) is, a quality wrench will indicate both right and LEFT hand torque and I use left hand torque regularly.
I checked the indicated torque value against my buddy's Starrett torque master and it's right on the bean +- 1%. Snap On on +-3%
Another good example is the Zurich code readers. Just as good as Snap On for 1/4 the cost. Have a Zurich too. The Zurich will diagnose OBD codes but it will also tell you what component needs replaced.
Just used it on an evap issue and it told me what component needed replaced, I replace the listed component and viola, no codes. Better than throwing expensive parts at an issue and hoping for the best.
I joke about HF, call it Hardon Fright but they do have quality tools and some one use junk as well. A depends on what you are looking for.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You may be able to put some spacer between the puller and steering wheel hub to avoid the plastic that extends below the hub. That may allow the puller to work without mangling the plastic.