I'm looking for some ramp suggestions to load my bx25d onto my duel axle trailer. The previous owner used 2x12's and I'm not to comfy with that. Any better ideas? This is what I'm dealing with.
Ramp suggestions
- Thread starter murph1068
- Start date
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
I'd be a little nervous about the way it's chained down. Or more accurately, *not* chained down.
A few details are missing, for example the load needed to break a ramp depends on the cross sectional area, the length of the ramp, the specific species of wood and how many knots or other imperfections it has. Length is a far bigger factor than many realize: the capacity actually varies as the cube of the length of the ramp, so a 12' ramp will carry 1/8 the load of a 6 foot ramp.
A nominal 2 x 12 (1-1/2" x 11-1/2") 6' long clear white pine is probably good for 300# per ramp. -- clearly insufficient for that tractor. If you place support to ground in the centre of each ramp, so each span is 3' or less, then 1100# per ramp, which is probably adequate.
A few details are missing, for example the load needed to break a ramp depends on the cross sectional area, the length of the ramp, the specific species of wood and how many knots or other imperfections it has. Length is a far bigger factor than many realize: the capacity actually varies as the cube of the length of the ramp, so a 12' ramp will carry 1/8 the load of a 6 foot ramp.
A nominal 2 x 12 (1-1/2" x 11-1/2") 6' long clear white pine is probably good for 300# per ramp. -- clearly insufficient for that tractor. If you place support to ground in the centre of each ramp, so each span is 3' or less, then 1100# per ramp, which is probably adequate.
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Bearing in mind the weight of the machine and the resulting weight of the ramps here is what i have, and what i would do in your situation.
My trailer has a single fold up ramp,made from 1x2x1/8" wall tubing on edge.
5 pcs lengthwise and 2 across. Welded on expanded metal. Loaded cars and trucks full of scrap metal weighing 5000 lbs on one occasion.
Hasnt bent yet.
So to build tougher ramps, and still have them manageable the same materials could be used.
1x1x1/8" doubled up will give you an extra 1/4" of wall strength per run and should do quite well if you keep it under 5 feet long. Heavy expanded metal to cover and away you go. Keep it narrow enough rear tires are near edge rails.
I have welded 4 1x1x1/8" to make a 2x2 tube. Its suprislingly strong for its weight. . No need to weld solid, stitch welds are fine.
Curl bucket under and swing hoe to one side to shorten length of machine when on trailer. Overhanging loads dont go over very well with picky highway inspectors. And for the sake of someones life use chains to secure machine. My preference is ratcheting load binders.
My trailer has a single fold up ramp,made from 1x2x1/8" wall tubing on edge.
5 pcs lengthwise and 2 across. Welded on expanded metal. Loaded cars and trucks full of scrap metal weighing 5000 lbs on one occasion.
Hasnt bent yet.
So to build tougher ramps, and still have them manageable the same materials could be used.
1x1x1/8" doubled up will give you an extra 1/4" of wall strength per run and should do quite well if you keep it under 5 feet long. Heavy expanded metal to cover and away you go. Keep it narrow enough rear tires are near edge rails.
I have welded 4 1x1x1/8" to make a 2x2 tube. Its suprislingly strong for its weight. . No need to weld solid, stitch welds are fine.
Curl bucket under and swing hoe to one side to shorten length of machine when on trailer. Overhanging loads dont go over very well with picky highway inspectors. And for the sake of someones life use chains to secure machine. My preference is ratcheting load binders.
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85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
"I'd be a little nervous about the way it's chained down. Or more accurately, *not* chained down.
I'll second that .......
The way it is - if you stop reeeeeealllll fast - that puppy is gonna fly!
Securing the BH is a real PITA - these cost very little and allow two points on rear and two points on front
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I'll second that .......
The way it is - if you stop reeeeeealllll fast - that puppy is gonna fly!
Securing the BH is a real PITA - these cost very little and allow two points on rear and two points on front
What you see is how it was moved around from the previous owner which is what I'm looking to correct as necessary. The ramps are 2X12X8 with mid supports being blocked up. Thanks for the response.
What's the size and are they fastened I assume with grade 8 bolts? That's exactly what I thought should have been installed on the tractor from the factory to be honest."I'd be a little nervous about the way it's chained down. Or more accurately, *not* chained down.
I'll second that .......
The way it is - if you stop reeeeeealllll fast - that puppy is gonna fly!
Securing the BH is a real PITA - these cost very little and allow two points on rear and two points on front
[/IMG]
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Again, it depends on species and wood is highly variable, but if it's clear white pine that sounds good for ~620# per ramp -- probably pushing your luck for that rig.
Now, if the ramps are southern yellow pine, then it works out to 825# per ramp.
[I think I made a math error originally. If there is an engineer in the house who feels inclined to check and make sure I actually have it right this time, here is the formula I used:
For:
C= load capacity
L= length of ramp segment between supports in inches
H= height of ramp in inches
W= width of ramp in inches
E= modulus of elasticity (~1,200,000 for clear white pine, ~1,600,000 for southern yellow pine)
I= moment of inertia (W * (H^3) / 12)
C= (L/128) x (48 * E * I) / (L^3) ]
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I don't want to be rude but you have a nice tractor worth thousands of dollars and a trailer that"s worth hundreds. I would spend the money on a trailer with a 16'or 18' foot bed with fold up ramps and not have to worry about DOT. also some 3/8" grade 70 chain and ratchet binders and they won't even take a second look at your load except for admiring your rig. This is just my opinion.
You can't have straps rubbing on straps or any semi sharp surface. One good bump or hit of the breaks and they will sap. Like others said, chains and binders.
I'd be shopping for a trailer the equipment actually fits on with room for balancing the weight, but that wasn't your question....
I would weld some C-channel underneath to slide the metal ramps ( i would build) into for storage and transportation.
I would weld some C-channel underneath to slide the metal ramps ( i would build) into for storage and transportation.
Yeah I have to go along with clay on this one,, sell that off and buy one that fits if you plan on moving it often..
And ya know what Da Troop is gona say,,,, Sir you have the right to remain ,,,,,,,,,,,,
I know the PoPo down this end of the world dont say much on the real back roads,,, but gawd forbid you hit the interstate like that
And ya know what Da Troop is gona say,,,, Sir you have the right to remain ,,,,,,,,,,,,
I know the PoPo down this end of the world dont say much on the real back roads,,, but gawd forbid you hit the interstate like that
Thanks guys, I just bought it as is and it doesn't move much. I'm not a big fan of the trailer either but it came with the package. Soon as I get done licking my wounds from the purchase I'll be in the market. Any one have picks of what they use for there bx25?
I know the guys here will hate this for the single axel, but here is the trailer I had made for my 2370, I imagine my 23s will also fit in it fine. I may add another axel one day. But it is easier to pull then my boat. It's 60 in accross by 16ft long.
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Single axle trailers are great for lawns and grass areas. They do no damage to anyone's property. As long as you balance the load well there is nothing wrong with a single axle. I too am using a single axle 12 footer for my rig.
Ramps are 2x2 1/4 inch angles with 1.5x1.5 crosses spaced 10 inches. Over kill on this tractor but easy to use. I have never been fond of wood ramps. Even with mid bracing they fail. Metal bends but easier to see failures before I get hurt again.
I do like the d rings. Still Looking for the best locations as I also haul with a box blade and a bush hog cutter. The rear needs to be frame not BH mounted.
Ramps are 2x2 1/4 inch angles with 1.5x1.5 crosses spaced 10 inches. Over kill on this tractor but easy to use. I have never been fond of wood ramps. Even with mid bracing they fail. Metal bends but easier to see failures before I get hurt again.
I do like the d rings. Still Looking for the best locations as I also haul with a box blade and a bush hog cutter. The rear needs to be frame not BH mounted.