Quick Coupler Replacement w/ minimal fluid loss

[N3BP]

Fellows,
The pioneer coupler on my L2900 to my loader has developed a leak (red arrow in pic). I replaced the o-ring inside the coupler and that didn't help. I'm just going to eliminate the coupler all together and screw the hose directly into the block. My goal is to minimize fluid loss since there is about $260 worth of super UDT in it at the moment. I'm not good at interpreting hydraulic flow charts, so I'm hoping an expert can chime in. Should I rotate the control screw to the "implement attached" or "implement not attached position" while preforming the repair? The leaking coupler is on the tank port? Thanks for the help!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Fellows,
The pioneer coupler on my L2900 to my loader has developed a leak (red arrow in pic). I replaced the o-ring inside the coupler and that didn't help. I'm just going to eliminate the coupler all together and screw the hose directly into the block. My goal is to minimize fluid loss since there is about $260 worth of super UDT in it at the moment. I'm not good at interpreting hydraulic flow charts, so I'm hoping an expert can chime in. Should I rotate the control screw to the "implement attached" or "implement not attached position" while preforming the repair? The leaking coupler is on the tank port? Thanks for the help!

I really won't matter. As long as the tractor is off you are only going to get a dribble from what ever oil is laying in the lines.

Dan

 

[N3BP]

Thanks Hokie, I appreciate it. I wasn't sure if it was possible for the trans to puke it's guts back out through the block port. I could just envision it happening and me scrambling to plug it back up while saying every dirty word I know. That's usually how "simple" jobs go for me, haha.

 

[GeoHorn]

Is the hose going to allow you to thread it into the block? In other words, ….what is the OTHER end of the hose connected to? Will it allow the hose to be rotated/thread into the block without unthreading the other end?
It might be the male portion of the Pioneer that is nicked and causing the leak?
I”m just thinking it might be better to replace the Pioneer fitting with a new one….?

 

[lugbolt]

get a clean container of some sort, put it under where you're working. When done, pour it back into the transmission.

 

[N3BP]

Is the hose going to allow you to thread it into the block? In other words, ….what is the OTHER end of the hose connected to? Will it allow the hose to be rotated/thread into the block without unthreading the other end?
It might be the male portion of the Pioneer that is nicked and causing the leak?
I”m just thinking it might be better to replace the Pioneer fitting with a new one….?

Well GeoHorn, I discovered tonight that you are correct and those stinkin hoses do not swivel. So I need to purchase another coupler. I did remove the bad one tonight and could not find any knicks on it. I'm guessing the internal o-ring has gone bad. Removing the coupler from the block does result in a small, but constant stream of transmission fluid loss, but I stuck a plug in it, so all is good.

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[Nicksacco]

When I replaced a lot of my hose lines, I cut off the JIC connectors that were decent and plugged the ends.
These can be used to plug up cylinders and things while you do things like go for hoses and such.
I'm sure others have thought of this too.

They also make JIC plugs too.

Amazon.com : jic plug

www.amazon.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well GeoHorn, I discovered tonight that you are correct and those stinkin hoses do not swivel. So I need to purchase another coupler. I did remove the bad one tonight and could not find any knicks on it. I'm guessing the internal o-ring has gone bad. Removing the coupler from the block does result in a small, but constant stream of transmission fluid loss, but I stuck a plug in it, so all is good.

Thanks,
Brandon

Just screw a pipe swivel into the port on the tractor and you won't have that problem again.

This is why I replace hoses with ridged pipe ends with ones that have JIC swivel ends. Makes life a lot easier.

Dan

 

[GeoHorn]

Rigid

(Not being snippy…. just trying to help…….took me a minute to think about what a ridged fitting might be.)

 

[N3BP]

Just screw a pipe swivel into the port on the tractor and you won't have that problem again.


View attachment 69794

This is why I replace hoses with ridged pipe ends with ones that have JIC swivel ends. Makes life a lot easier.

Dan

Right on Dan. I had one of the dump cylinder hoses tear and had JIC swivel hose made. Salty but much easier to work with. Speaking of salty, I stopped by the local Parker store today and got a new coupler and 3/8 NPT male-male end. Left the shop with $80 less than I entered. Bright side is no more puddle on the garage floor from the tractor.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Right on Dan. I had one of the dump cylinder hoses tear and had JIC swivel hose made. Salty but much easier to work with. Speaking of salty, I stopped by the local Parker store today and got a new coupler and 3/8 NPT male-male end. Left the shop with $80 less than I entered. Bright side is no more puddle on the garage floor from the tractor.

The Parker store is crazy expensive. I stopped in earlier this week looking for a length of 1/2" steel tube. They did not have any but said they could have it the next day and asked how much I wanted. Since they were ordering it I said get me two sticks and left without asking the price. Last time I purchased tube from them it was as you say a little salty @2.80 per foot. When I showed up the next day they presented me with a bill for $240 ($6/foot) plus tax. I paid but wasn't happy. Got home and checked online - $3.20 /ft + $20 shipping and no tax.

BTW the JIC hose ends are not significantly more expensive than rigid pipe. It costs mbe roughly $8 for two JIC swivel ends plus $2/ft to make a 3/8 JIC hose assembly using generic R16 hose. If I go high end Gates MegaFlex hose is $6/ft.

Dan

 

[D2Cat]

The Parker store is crazy expensive. I stopped in earlier this week looking for a length of 1/2" steel tube. They did not have any but said they could have it the next day and asked how much I wanted. Since they were ordering it I said get me two sticks and left without asking the price. Last time I purchased tube from them it was as you say a little salty @2.80 per foot. When I showed up the next day they presented me with a bill for $240 ($6/foot) plus tax. I paid but wasn't happy. Got home and checked online - $3.20 /ft + $20 shipping and no tax.

BTW the JIC hose ends are not significantly more expensive than rigid pipe. It costs mbe roughly $8 for two JIC swivel ends plus $2/ft to make a 3/8 JIC hose assembly using generic R16 hose. If I go high end Gates MegaFlex hose is $6/ft.

Dan

I think you do pay tax on online orders now! That savings is history.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I think you do pay tax on online orders now! That savings is history.

That still depends on the seller. Most online sellers now collect state retail sales taxes but I can assure you there was no tax on that hydraulic tube nor the aluminum bar I purchased last week.

Dan

 

[mikester]

get a clean container of some sort, put it under where you're working. When done, pour it back into the transmission.

Oil is cheaper than hydraulic pumps and HST transmissions. I dump the oil in my recycling barrel and only add new oil.