Question for Plumbers

[NorthwoodsLife]

So, this house was built in the early 1950's. The tub / shower combo drains very slowly. I want to replace the drain line from the tub itself to the main drain line "bell" fitting. My question is, what is the bell looking fitting and how do I address it? I don't want to remove it, but how is it fastened to the vertical pipe? Threaded? Or plop right in there?
All Galvanized pipe and what appears to be CI fittings.
Thank you in advance for any help.
And yeah, I'm too old for this kind of thing. But a penny saved is a penny earned. (And I want to buy a snow blower, not remodel a bathroom).
Edit: The plumbing in the rest of the house drains perfectly. Just a bathtub issue.

It's all in a crawl space under the house.

In the next picture the horizontal line going to the right goes to the tub. The vertical line above the sweep ell is the vent out the roof. Below the sweep ell is the bell thing which connects to the 6" main drain line.

Next pic is my dog loves adventure and crawled under the house with me. And the last one is the trap under the tub.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

That appears to be a 2" cast iron bell. The galvanized pipe is probably sealed with oakem and poured lead. Today, they would be sealed with a rubber seal.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yep lead seals.
You can get rubber replacement seals.

 

[jaxs]

That appears to be a 2" cast iron bell. The galvanized pipe is probably sealed with oakem and poured lead. Today, they would be sealed with a rubber seal.

^^ Yup^^ and it required a trained plumber to make those fittings. A plumbing supply house can fix you up with everything you need.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

How did you get under my bathroom to take those pictures?!
Same deal here. Exactly! Slow, originally. You can get a lot of soap and scum buildup in the 2 inch galvanized from the tub but it may also be a problem with inadequate venting.
There are a couple ways to transition from the iron to PVC. If you have local codes may want to see what they allow.
Initially we just cut the iron and put a fernco on it to get to PVC. Few years later had to dig up some stuff outside the house in that area and just ditched (literally) the iron all together at that time (was just a few feet left, had PVC coming most of the way back from tank already).
Better vent helped a lot, probably still not to code but works well.

 

[John T]

So, this house was built in the early 1950's. The tub / shower combo drains very slowly..

Sorry for the obvious but.....

Have you snaked it out?

I would run a small manual rotary snake though it.... as far as it will go.

Just be prepared to pull back terrible things....

I had the same problem with mine.... snaked it
now it works great... I also now use a rubber drain cover to prevent hair or anything from entering..

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Looks familiar.....sigh....
I cut the vertical galvanized pipe that joins to the cast iron,then 'fished and flushed ' the CI drain, thern replaced all the galv pipes with ABS....
At least mine was NOT in a crawl space...... though both my septic tanks are......

 

[fried1765]

How did you get under my bathroom to take those pictures?!
Same deal here. Exactly! Slow, originally. You can get a lot of soap and scum buildup in the 2 inch galvanized from the tub but it may also be a problem with inadequate venting.
There are a couple ways to transition from the iron to PVC. If you have local codes may want to see what they allow.
Initially we just cut the iron and put a fernco on it to get to PVC. Few years later had to dig up some stuff outside the house in that area and just ditched (literally) the iron all together at that time (was just a few feet left, had PVC coming most of the way back from tank already).
Better vent helped a lot, probably still not to code but works well.

Look for the vent to be plugged, or partially plugged.

 

[chim]

Good info so far. I'd borrow, rent or buy something like the one below. I've borrowed something similar from work a few times and it cleared the clogs without the need to disassemble any piping. We had two types. One larger older machine that needed the operator to add lengths of the cable as it fed in, and another with a cassette of 30-ish feet of cable in one piece that was extended and rewrapped automatically. Both had power feed in and out and it's very helpful.

23 ft. Automatic-Feed Handheld Electric Drain Cleaner

Amazing deals on this Handheld Corded Drain Cleaner at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If you have a cleanout in the cast iron do NOT attempt to unscrew it !!
Also horizontal runs of cast will 'split' open along the top....so have a real good look,just be careful with the 'tap test'....

 

[D2Cat]

Since the drain is running slow and you have no pipe breaks I'd begin by running a snake from the tub overflow. Take the two screws out and pull the hardware up and out and insert the snake there. Be sure to have a rag over the drain so the screws don't drop and get lost.

I'd suggest going to your local rental yard and getting a drain auger. They will have one powered by a 1/2" drill and 25' of snake. Take your time and you'll easily clean the problem out. Once starting with the snake have a few inches of warm water in the tub. That will tell you when it clear. You'll probably feel the resistance of the stoppage and when you remove the snake you'll probably discover a wad of hair!

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Thanks everyone.

I have snaked it through the overflow as D2Cat mentioned.

I have to do it about once a year. Last couple times I almost couldn't get the snake out. I now hate the thought of trying the snake again.

Pipes are 70 years old, and as I replaced most the old pipe with ABS, this tub line is the last galv one. All the galv pipes were / are 1 1/2". But once removed there's only a small pencil sized hole down the center. The rest is crud.

 

[jaxs]

If 1.5" isn't too bad far gone a simple way is cut 1.5" pipe off a few inches above cast iron hub and use Fenco clamp to connect new ABS line. Since you have easy access to drain you might consider an ABS trap with clean-out plug. As you've seen snaking from tub it's near impossible to get past trap unless using an under size snake.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

If 1.5" isn't too bad far gone a simple way is cut 1.5" pipe off a few inches above cast iron hub and use Fenco clamp to connect new ABS line. Since you have easy access to drain you might consider an ABS trap with clean-out plug. As you've seen snaking from tub it's near impossible to get past trap unless using an under size snake.

Yep. Thank you.

I haven't seen an ABS trap with a cleanout before. I was thinking of something like that, didn't know that they existed. I'll look into it. I want to install something like that and run a 1 1/2" ABS line to the house exterior for future snaking. Because this crawling under the house with about 24" clearance isn't what I would consider easy access. And running a snake while in the crawl space! No thank you.

We'll be selling the place in about a year, so I don't want to go crazy with it. Just want it right.

 

[fried1765]

If 1.5" isn't too bad far gone a simple way is cut 1.5" pipe off a few inches above cast iron hub and use Fenco clamp to connect new ABS line. Since you have easy access to drain you might consider an ABS trap with clean-out plug. As you've seen snaking from tub it's near impossible to get past trap unless using an under size snake.

"Fenco" ????? = Fernco

 

[D2Cat]

Yep. Thank you.

I haven't seen an ABS trap with a cleanout before. I was thinking of something like that, didn't know that they existed. I'll look into it. I want to install something like that and run a 1 1/2" ABS line to the house exterior for future snaking. Because this crawling under the house with about 24" clearance isn't what I would consider easy access. And running a snake while in the crawl space! No thank you.

We'll be selling the place in about a year, so I don't want to go crazy with it. Just want it right.

This link give a good idea of the plumbing for the tub. If your drain line has only a pencil size hole you just as well fix it now and enjoy it's use. If you wait to sell an inspector may have an issue and then you fix it. I would try (again) with an auger even if I was planning to replace the drain. Using a small tip may be all you need. You probably won't have to go very far to get it open. Also, when removing a powered auger do not reverse the direction. Leave it turning clockwise and just gently pull the cable out.

For your condition only use the small straight curled wire tip.

https://www.amazon.com/Cleaner-Comb...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584138873035437&psc=1

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Looks familiar.....sigh....
I cut the vertical galvanized pipe that joins to the cast iron,then 'fished and flushed ' the CI drain, thern replaced all the galv pipes with ABS....

That's kinda my plan. Or, Now it is. Your guy's info has really helped, and scared the ... out of me. I don't want a huge bathroom remodel over a slowly draining tub.

I also realized that in order to access and replace the actual bathtub drain and overflow, I'd need to take a oscillating cutter and remove some flooring from underneath in the crawlspace. It appears as though the original builder in the 1950's connected the tub drains to the cast iron tub before installation and made the hole just big enough to fit the vertical trap feed line through. Like a 2" hole! Sheesh.

I have a couple Milwaukee oscillating cutters, (Love them), but the blades are very expensive and wear out really fast. AND, laying on my back in the dirt in a crawlspace, all the sawdust will be in this old man's face. And lungs. Along with the dirt I'm already breathing under there.

After hearing from you guys about the bell fitting, I just don't want to mess with any lead filled ancient artifact. Especially while layng on my back. In the dust. In the dark if my work lights go out. And one of them usually does.

Other folks mentioned a vent issue. I don't think that there is a vent problem, because the tub drain line also vents through the tub overflow. Please teach me if I'm wrong. I really don't want to replace a vent line up straight up and through the roof. I've snaked it before from the roof and it's always been free and clear. Nothing.

I'm convinced from seeing the other galv lines that I replaced that it's the horizontal or near level drain lines that fill up with decades of crud and then time it perfectly to piss me off with drain issues on special occasions.

So, I'm thinking of cutting the horizontal galv line that runs damn near level. Cut it close to the tub CI trap on one end and the main line CI sweep ell on the other. Clean out the CI trap and sweep ell as best as possible and install a Fernco at each end and a new ABS drain line between the Ferncos.

Let me know if I'm making a mistake in your opinion.

Thanks for everyone's help!!!! Greatly appreciated!!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

looking at the pictures,again, I'd replace all the tub galv piping. cut 4" from that 'Tee' into CI. Use plastic for new tub drain connection, Tee trap and then straight to Fernco . While open, clean up the galv at CI Tee so you get good flow. When you cut the horizontal pipe SUPPORT IT, so Mr. Murphy doesn't break the Tee at the CI end ! Get an LED 'shop light'and 2nd extension cord and drag that in with you. Having GREAT light makes the job a lot easier. A few of those rubbery foam jigsaw mats help.. and coffee NEEDS to be in a sippy cup.

 

[fried1765]

That's kinda my plan. Or, Now it is. Your guy's info has really helped, and scared the ... out of me. I don't want a huge bathroom remodel over a slowly draining tub.

I also realized that in order to access and replace the actual bathtub drain and overflow, I'd need to take a oscillating cutter and remove some flooring from underneath in the crawlspace. It appears as though the original builder in the 1950's connected the tub drains to the cast iron tub before installation and made the hole just big enough to fit the vertical trap feed line through. Like a 2" hole! Sheesh.

I have a couple Milwaukee oscillating cutters, (Love them), but the blades are very expensive and wear out really fast. AND, laying on my back in the dirt in a crawlspace, all the sawdust will be in this old man's face. And lungs. Along with the dirt I'm already breathing under there.

After hearing from you guys about the bell fitting, I just don't want to mess with any lead filled ancient artifact. Especially while layng on my back. In the dust. In the dark if my work lights go out. And one of them usually does.

Other folks mentioned a vent issue. I don't think that there is a vent problem, because the tub drain line also vents through the tub overflow. Please teach me if I'm wrong. I really don't want to replace a vent line up straight up and through the roof. I've snaked it before from the roof and it's always been free and clear. Nothing.

I'm convinced from seeing the other galv lines that I replaced that it's the horizontal or near level drain lines that fill up with decades of crud and then time it perfectly to piss me off with drain issues on special occasions.

So, I'm thinking of cutting the horizontal galv line that runs damn near level. Cut it close to the tub CI trap on one end and the main line CI sweep ell on the other. Clean out the CI trap and sweep ell as best as possible and install a Fernco at each end and a new ABS drain line between the Ferncos.

Let me know if I'm making a mistake in your opinion.

Thanks for everyone's help!!!! Greatly appreciated!!

BINGO!
By golly, I think you've got it!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One well placed M80 will make short work of a slow drain!