I have watched videos 50 times !! A blind man could be blind folded & put it on in 5 miniuts !! I must be a moron. I can remove it easy just the way they show. BUT, putting it back on is a real struggle for me. It will just not go on evenly. Even on a flat surface. Any tips would be appreciated !! Thank You, john
Putting a loader back on a B X 1870
- Thread starter johnwoodfab
- Start date
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
what specifically are having issues with?
Alignment?
or
Once hydraulics are hooked up - raising arms to lock them in?
Alignment?
or
Once hydraulics are hooked up - raising arms to lock them in?
Raising the arms to lock them in. One side will go in & the other will pop right out. It is like some thing is out of line .
John,
Early on, I struggled too. When installing, i put the transmission in neutral and rotate the loader arms back against the towers. Make sure both sides contact. Next lower the arms into the sockets on the loader arms and continue to take weight off the front end and install the pins. Putting the tranny in neutral allows the tractor to move relative to the loader preventing the loader arms from popping out of their sockets.
DaveD
New member
Equipment
B1700 HST 1996, LP grading scraper & box scraper, Bush Hog SQ60 & aerator
Check the air pressure in your front tires. Low pressure in a tire will cause problems of this sort for me.
I could be reading this wrong,but….
You shouldn’t be “raising” the boom arms to get the loader back on, you dump the bucket to get the loader set back in the mounts. If you move the stick up or down without the loader pins in it will get out of alignment quick in my experience (during removal or installation)
Last edited:
Thank You, I will have to try that.
Thank You, that is something else that I can check.
Thank You, Yes , that is part of my problem, BUT, when I just roll my bucket it just doesnt go all the way into the pocket. Thats when I start moving the stick & getting into more trouble !!
Only use the curl and dump function when the loader mounting pins are removed. Do you happen to have the parking brake set during this? Letting the tractor move as its setting down may help you. Another thought, does the loader have a toothbar on it? I believe I recall reading bx owners having an issue with it not dumping enough to seat the loader. I think they were sticking a block under the front edge of the bucket when removing loader.
After having taken mine off and having put it back on every week since March yesterday was the first time it went back on flawlessly, like butter. There is a learning curve. Try not to worry. You will learn in time with experience like I did. "You must feel the Force flow around you" -Yoda.
No, I dont have the brake on. I was thinking about putting some thing under the bucket because it goes where it is almost there & then stops. That could be a the problem. Thank You
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Air pressure in the front tires will not make any difference at all, but air pressure in the rear tires will make a huge difference if one tire pressure is significantly different from the other.
DaveD
New member
Equipment
B1700 HST 1996, LP grading scraper & box scraper, Bush Hog SQ60 & aerator
Your response above sounds like it's pretty authoritative, but it is incorrect. Perhaps you thought that I was pulling that statement out of somewhere to my rear? My response is not based on speculation, but personal experience. One of my front tires had a slow leak for years and when I forgot to pump it up before attaching the FEL it was often difficult or impossible to do so until I brought the pressure up to normal.
DaveD
New member
Equipment
B1700 HST 1996, LP grading scraper & box scraper, Bush Hog SQ60 & aerator
John, that brings up another experience I had attaching my FEL. I have turf tires and 4WD and no, I never run it in 4WD unless I have to, but he original front tires wore quickly--I believe that they were originally defective. As the lugs wore off I discovered that I had to roll the front tires onto a 1/2" or so piece of plywood to make the attachment work better. You haven't described just what appears to be the reason you are considering raising the bucket to make it work better, but maybe your problem might be the opposite of mine. If the tires are original, this should not be but if they have been replaced, are they the original spec size? If larger that may be your problem. Otherwise, whitetiger's suggestion may be something you want to look at--adding air to the rear tires if they are low.
xrocketengineer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
With my BX1880, I had problems with one side lining up but not the other. With the FEL installed, the bucket (or grapple) would always contact the ground on one side before the other when being lowered. I ended up using a piece of 2X4 on its side under the bucket on the side that contacted the ground first and that is what I had to do every time to line things up for FEL installation.
However, when I replaced the tractor tires, I found that one of the almost new R1 rear tires that were being removed was about a 1/2 inch in diameter smaller than the other. Now with the new tires, I don't have to use the piece of 2X4 anymore when installing the FEL even though the bucket still does not contact the ground evenly, but it is much better though.
However, when I replaced the tractor tires, I found that one of the almost new R1 rear tires that were being removed was about a 1/2 inch in diameter smaller than the other. Now with the new tires, I don't have to use the piece of 2X4 anymore when installing the FEL even though the bucket still does not contact the ground evenly, but it is much better though.
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
My response was not "authoritative", but it is factual. The front tires have nothing to do with keeping the tractor level from side to side. The front axle has a pin in the center that allows it to oscillate, so you can have a flat tire on one side and the tractor will still set level side to side which is what matters when installing a cantilever mounted loader.
The rear tires being the same pressure is all that dictates whether a tractor sets level or not.
DaveD
New member
Equipment
B1700 HST 1996, LP grading scraper & box scraper, Bush Hog SQ60 & aerator
Whitetiger, thank you for your sage advice.
Note, however, that I never said anything in my first entry about "keeping the tractor level from side to side". Nor did I imply it. Please re-read my first entry and my entry following the one where I responded to you. In it, I suggested that with badly worn front tires " I discovered that I had to roll the front tires onto a 1/2" or so piece of plywood to make the attachment work better . . ."
With a single low front tire the whole front end drops by half the distance that the wheel with the low tire drops. And, on my tractor at least, a half inch or so lower front end makes it difficult to install the FEL.
Enough said. I will no longer respond to your assessment of my personal experience and the conclusions I reached.
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Go back and RE-READ your first post to someone installing the loader on a BX1870, which is a completely different style of a loader from yours. He is not trying to put on the style of loader you have, he is installing a cantilever mounted loader. You posted about air pressure in the front tires which makes absolutely NO difference when installing his style of a front-end loader. I simply corrected your incorrect instruction with a FACT.