Offsetting rear blade ... should I grease it?

[ejb11235]

I just bought this 5' Rankin rear blade this weekend for my BX. The blade tilts and offsets. It took me a while to figure out how to get the blade to slide ... you have to hold it a certain way otherwise it binds up for reasons I don't fully understand.

I started thinking about completely sliding the blade out and slathering the whole sliding part with grease. I don't know if it will smooth things out at all.

What do you folks think ... will this just make a gloppy dirt-attracting mess? I'm used to grease on FEL and backhoe pivots but this is going to be close to the dirt, especially when I run the blade in reverse.

 

[NCL4701]

Kind of reminds me of a manual fork rack. No grease requires hammer, kicks from sturdy boots, cussing optional. Lots of grease just makes a mess. A light coating of grease disbursed evenly on mating surfaces makes things move easily. Near miraculous difference.

I would lightly grease the slidy bits. It’s not a constantly moving joint that’s going to wear out faster if it does collect dirt, it just wouldn’t slide well. If it collects dirt and causes more problems than it solves, get out the pressure washer and blow the grease off. I don’t see any downside to at least giving greasing a trial run.

 

[ejb11235]

Kind of reminds me of a manual fork rack. No grease requires hammer, kicks from sturdy boots, cussing optional. Lots of grease just makes a mess. A light coating of grease disbursed evenly on mating surfaces makes things move easily. Near miraculous difference.

I would lightly grease the slidy bits. It’s not a constantly moving joint that’s going to wear out faster if it does collect dirt, it just wouldn’t slide well. If it collects dirt and causes more problems than it solves, get out the pressure washer and blow the grease off. I don’t see any downside to at least giving greasing a trial run.

Cool thanks. And it will be easy to clean off if I decided it was just a bad idea.

When I first tried sliding it, it bound up and I eventually tappy tapped with a sledge hammer. It would move around but not slide. As it turned out, shifting the blade back allowed it to move, but this was counter intuitive and I only tried it after spending a lot of time trying other things.

I think the offsetting blades that have a pivot up near the 3ph and don't have any sliding is probably a better design for a non-hydraulic blade, but I only paid $875 for this so I'm happy.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

NO GREASE!
Dry fluid film.
Or simple paste wax.

both will let it slide easier, neither attracts dirt and both displace moisture.

 

[ejb11235]

NO GREASE!
Dry fluid film.
Or simple paste wax.

both will let it slide easier, neither attracts dirt and both displace moisture.

I pay attention to people who use all caps to emphasize. I hear you. Thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

NO PROBLEM.

 

[ejb11235]

NO PROBLEM.

I don't do sarcasm so yeah.... totally serious

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I wasn't being sarcastic either, Just adding levity!

 

[ejb11235]

I wasn't being sarcastic either, Just adding levity!

Hope I didn't make it weird lol

Actually, this "dry fluid film" ... what is this? I looked it up and found a product called "fluid film", but I assumed you were using the term generically

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Nope you got it right, fluid film it is.

 

[Shawn T. W]

Just be aware the farther you have it off-set, the more weight on the back of the tractor you will want, if your doing more than a light scraping at an angle... Or it will push your rearend sideways ...

Not sure if your tires are filled? Doesn't look like you have wheel weights ... But seems you have a BH ...

I'm guessing your BH hooks on similar to mine ... I found my little SCUT had trouble going straight with a full load being pulled with a 6' blade at an angle, traction was also a problem, spinning 3 filled tires while crab walking ... Even with some weight in the bucket, this is where it stopped

So I added weight to the BH mount! On mine the top frame hole is 1" ... I took a piece of 3/4" black iron pipe which has a OD of 1.06" and slid it through, added weight lifting plates, had to use smaller ones closer to the center so I could get full range of the lower 3pt arms ... And my top link just barely clears it.

275 pounds of old plates I bought off eBay, at roughly $1 including shipping, plus the 70 Lb wheel weights on each side.

Now it goes straight, as the weight of the blade is resting on the ground ... So I put weight on the tractor.

 

[Russell King]

Hope I didn't make it weird lol

Actually, this "dry fluid film" ... what is this? I looked it up and found a product called "fluid film", but I assumed you were using the term generically

Search ”dry spray lubricant” and you will find many examples.

These were developed for use in situations similar to yours to overcome the problem with grease on dusty open surfaces.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I would grease it. Let the dust it collects sand it down a bit for smoother operation later. It's not a engine cylinder or surgical device.

Dry film spray is just another can of stuff that you have to buy and won't be able to find later in your shop. Keep it simple.

Use grease. And you probably have LOTS of grease already like most tractor owners.

Don't wear your church clothes tho.

If it doesn't work out, degrease and pressure wash it and go buy more chemicals in a can.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I use red spraybombs of 'Rustcheck' for things that need sliding, like pallet forks and PTO shafts. It's not 'thick' like grrrrease but sure makes things move very well.

 

[William1]

Yup, paraffin wax.