New Member, and of course, a question!

[ShaunRH]

Hello everyone, first post so please excuse my 'stupid question'...

I have a brand new L3200 and am experiencing the wonders of everything being very stiff, especially the linkages in the 3 point hitch.

I am an experienced tractor operator, having run more ancient, uh, 'elderly' iron, namely Pre-1970's larger units. This is my first foray into more compact tractors.

So far I really love the power and nimbleness of the L3200 and the 4WD makes running the box scraper a dream, however, with everything so stiff, setting up the attachments isn't so fun.

I was thinking of replacing the turnbuckle link on the lift arm (not the top link) with a ratcheting turnbuckle. I don't need hydraulics. Ratchets are pretty fast though, so I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation for a min/max length size on the L3200?

Opinions? Criticisms? all welcome...

 

[skeets]

Welcome, I don't have your model but I do know they are stiff but will wear in , in a short time,, Now I don't think I have seen the ratchet type around my neck of the woods but there's this guy in here that makes some really neat pieces for that,, I'm sure someone has his address, and the prices,, aint that bad

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I know they are strong but a ratchet might not hold op to the abuse of the three point.
I would take the adjustable link of take it apart clean all of the grease, paint, and anything else out of it and re-lube.

 

[ShaunRH]

Thanks for the feedback.

The ratchets I am looking at are rated anywhere from 3000lb to 12000lb working load depending on size so the 3 point system should fail before the ratchet.

Here's the design of a ratcheting turnbuckle:
http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/binders/compactor/10-773_39219.pdf

So, I guess I could just stick with factory lengths but usually those are pretty conservative. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the maximum/minimum deflection on the L3200.

I know some folks have modded with hydraulic rams in the place of the turnbuckle, the length info there would be useful to me.

Thanks again to all for your consideration of the dilemma.

 

[Woody Martin]

I know they are strong but a ratchet might not hold op to the abuse of the three point.
I would take the adjustable link of take it apart clean all of the grease, paint, and anything else out of it and re-lube.

I'm with Wolfman on this one. Clean and re lube. If there is something available and you want to try something new, go for it.

 

[ShaunRH]

I'm with Wolfman on this one. Clean and re lube. If there is something available and you want to try something new, go for it.

I fully understand the sentiment from both y'all and that is where I have to go to get it working at all.

With weight on the lift arms, I can't move the turnbuckle up or down, even with some quick spray lube. That makes fine adjusting of the box scraper level a laborious task (read: lots of sweat, bloody knuckles and words that really shouldn't come out of a civilized persons mouth! )

I figured a ratchet or any other gizmo (maybe a better quality turnbuckle?) would let me adjust it under load. The older iron I've worked on has well worn turnbuckles that work even under load, with a little elbow grease, and they have more room for my hands to work as well.

If my best option is a standard turnbuckle then I guess I'll have to figure out a fast way of breaking the factory one in! Darn tight tolerances!

Thanks again everyone for the input.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I fully understand the sentiment from both y'all and that is where I have to go to get it working at all.

With weight on the lift arms, I can't move the turnbuckle up or down, even with some quick spray lube. That makes fine adjusting of the box scraper level a laborious task (read: lots of sweat, bloody knuckles and words that really shouldn't come out of a civilized persons mouth! )

I figured a ratchet or any other gizmo (maybe a better quality turnbuckle?) would let me adjust it under load. The older iron I've worked on has well worn turnbuckles that work even under load, with a little elbow grease, and they have more room for my hands to work as well.

If my best option is a standard turnbuckle then I guess I'll have to figure out a fast way of breaking the factory one in! Darn tight tolerances!

Thanks again everyone for the input.

Wire wheel the threads, should help some. You can grease, but then the grease attracts dirt and you don't really want that.

Hydraulics are the way to go, but that ends up costing some $$$$.

 

[ShaunRH]

Wire wheel the threads, should help some. You can grease, but then the grease attracts dirt and you don't really want that.

Hydraulics are the way to go, but that ends up costing some $$$$.

Yup, that's about all that is left that I can do. I was avoiding grease/oil and using drying silicone so that it didn't attract dirt. It helped but I still have to put the implement down and use a large wrench on the turnbuckle (which leaves marks). Thus the ratcheting one which has the 'wrench' built in... LOL!