New here... I just purchased a Kubota B7100 D 4x4 tractor with a D750-A.. .8 liter.. 3 cylinder Diesel It's dripping coolant, and when I looked, it looks like the water pump is leaking, But it's also not charging... So when I looked up for a water pump I couldn't the one that looked like mine, now I just seen an alternator that looks like what I thought was my water pump... Is this a water pump and alternator? I see it has what looks like a hose fitting? Any help is appreciated...
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- Thread starter steave1955
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ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
The B7100's are thermal syphoning and do not have a water pump. What you pictured is a dynamo which keeps your battery charged.
There is a gasket and water jacket behind the dynamo which could be leaking. Are you sure it is not the radiator hose, either loose, cracked or pin hole?
Incase your wondering, this is what is inside the dynamo. My bearings went bad and I replaced, along with the gasket between the back of the casting and the engine block.
There is a gasket and water jacket behind the dynamo which could be leaking. Are you sure it is not the radiator hose, either loose, cracked or pin hole?
Incase your wondering, this is what is inside the dynamo. My bearings went bad and I replaced, along with the gasket between the back of the casting and the engine block.
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GreensvilleJay
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Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The back of the dynamo is a water flange and that's probably where your leak is at.
Now for the tricky part there is on nut that is very very difficult to remove, I somewhere in my stash of tools have a wrench that has been specifically bent to get to that nut.
Now for the tricky part there is on nut that is very very difficult to remove, I somewhere in my stash of tools have a wrench that has been specifically bent to get to that nut.
85Hokie
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Lifetime Member
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Welcome to the forum,
you do NOT have a water pump - and you a good ol fashion dynamometer, which is an old school alternator.
This engine moves the water around via a thermosyphon system - hot water is less dense, thus rises once cooled drops back down via the radiator. Very very simple device - BUT you must keep that radiator REAL clean.
Now lets talk about the lack of charging - that dyno produces AC - it should have 2 leads (maybe 3) and if you can find the leads you can hook a volt meter to them and with engine running near WOT and you should see 30+ volts AC. The rectifier may be at fault, turning the AC to DC.
Most dynos never go bad - the bearings DO go bad, but the making the juice rarely goes bad.
The dyno has 6 nuts - 5 of them are easy to get off - 1 of them is "hard" to get off and a real PITA tp get back on.
Get a 10 mm ratcheting wrench - something like 2 degree clicks.
What I came up with was to drill a very small hole RIGHT in the middle of the lower middle bolt. I am talking like 1/32 or so - then I get the body back on and you can place the 5 easy nuts on and get them snug - then there is enough room to take a piece of stiff wire and place it INTO the hole at the end of the bolt, allow the wire to come out past, then slide the nut down the wire and your finger can give it a few flicks and it will spin right on. Trust me any other way makes you want to pull your hair out!
you do NOT have a water pump - and you a good ol fashion dynamometer, which is an old school alternator.
This engine moves the water around via a thermosyphon system - hot water is less dense, thus rises once cooled drops back down via the radiator. Very very simple device - BUT you must keep that radiator REAL clean.
Now lets talk about the lack of charging - that dyno produces AC - it should have 2 leads (maybe 3) and if you can find the leads you can hook a volt meter to them and with engine running near WOT and you should see 30+ volts AC. The rectifier may be at fault, turning the AC to DC.
Most dynos never go bad - the bearings DO go bad, but the making the juice rarely goes bad.
The dyno has 6 nuts - 5 of them are easy to get off - 1 of them is "hard" to get off and a real PITA tp get back on.
Get a 10 mm ratcheting wrench - something like 2 degree clicks.
What I came up with was to drill a very small hole RIGHT in the middle of the lower middle bolt. I am talking like 1/32 or so - then I get the body back on and you can place the 5 easy nuts on and get them snug - then there is enough room to take a piece of stiff wire and place it INTO the hole at the end of the bolt, allow the wire to come out past, then slide the nut down the wire and your finger can give it a few flicks and it will spin right on. Trust me any other way makes you want to pull your hair out!