Need a heavy duty tow hitch

bearskinner

Active member

Equipment
BX25D, snowblower, PHD, Grapple, Snow blade, land Plane
Sep 1, 2014
925
238
43
N. Idaho
Hitches and tow balls are cheap, safety and accidents are not. You can purchase 3 separate drop hitches,( not HF specials) get ones that take at least 1" shank hitches if not 1 1/4" shanks for each size ball. You can USA the same weight distribution hitch, change the ball as needed, and have a very safe hook up for whatever you want to tow. Remember "Overkill is Under rated"
 

white cloud

Member
Sep 15, 2016
37
0
6
S.C.
For everyday towing on my landscape trailer, I just use a Tri-ball rated for 15,000lbs. Usually left locked to the truck with the 2" ball up.

I actually dread having to pull the tri-ball and put in the receiver for the weight distribution hitch for the camper. The weight distribution hitch will throw out your back if your not careful :eek:

If I could find one where I could pull a couple pins and switch the ball, and keep the weight distribution full time, that would be great :D
You are right about WDH weights. I use an Equilizer brand hitch. I was worried about the carrying of it hurting my back so I made a dolly to move it to and from the truck.
 

NEPA Guy

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B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
Nov 28, 2015
424
4
18
Pennsyltucky
I just upgraded to a Tundra myself not to long ago. I need to learn how to tow. I have a 10K trailer on order.

I noticed that most 16-20' foot trailer weigh about 2,000 lbs. Thats either rated for 7K or 10K. It seems to be an axle thing.

For the Tundra the gross trailer weight should be distributed so that the tongue weight is 9% - 11% (Page 170 in the user's manual)

If the gross trailer weight is over 5000 lbs a weight distributing hitch with sufficient capacity is required. (Page 179 in the user's manual)

Even if you only have a 4,000 lb tractor, and your trailer is around 2,000 lbs...I dunno man, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I hate to spend more money on this setup, but I will if it means not losing control of my precious. :D

 

Daren Todd

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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
May 18, 2014
9,163
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Vilonia, Arkansas
A good quality weight distribution hitch costs between $200 and $400. And there are two styles.

Style 1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161224...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1095242346385&ul_noapp=true

This is the style I have on my camper.

But from what I've been told, this Other style is much better. So I've been considering getting this one and mounting it on my camper. And using the one currently on my camper, on my utility trailer.

Style 2
http://www.21motorsports.com/curt-m...uS7TQ_L3-lk0_6fBL17LhOISecmGUy1jTQaAvTv8P8HAQ

What ever you do, stay away from the one they sell at harbor freight. I personally have a hard time trusting the quality of there towing supplies and hitches. Go with a trusted name brand hitch, and check the reviews ;)
 
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NEPA Guy

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B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
Nov 28, 2015
424
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18
Pennsyltucky
I wonder are there any tricks to figuring out tongue weight besides using a scale. Like the height of the front/rear fenders? (not to go too far off topic)
 

Daren Todd

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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
May 18, 2014
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I was there when the camper sales installed mine and set it up. They used a tape measure and sharpie :p

They set the unit level. Backed my truck up to it with the receiver installed on the truck. Adjusted the ball height so it was just a hair higher then the tongue of the trailer.

Took a measurement with the tape measure. The sharpie was to mark the inside of the fender so they measured the same spot after the camper and hitch was installed with the load bars.
My truck dropped 2 inches with the load bars :D It drops 6" or so with out the load bars.

They preload the load bars by hooking up the hitch. Then jack the camper back up to raise the back end of the truck. Hook up the load bars. Then run the jack down so the bars support the tongue weight and keep the camper level.

Both style hitches preload the same way. Hitch 1 also has sway bars that need to be hooked up.

Hitch 2 doesn't require sway bars.

Hitch 1 gives some humming and vibration sound when turning corners from the sway bars. Hitch 2 gives some popping noises when turning.













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SLIMSHADIE

Member

Equipment
Kubota BX25D
Apr 10, 2013
445
1
16
Eureka,IL
Camper related
6 years ago: Top of the line would be a Hensley or Propride weight distribution hitch, but about $2k also. Next would be Equalizer, Reese Straight-Line. All of these have sway control too.

I ended up the the Reese straight-line for my 30' camper.

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP66088.html

Tongue weight could be up to 15% of camper gross weight, plan for the heaviest, a little overkill wouldnt hurt. With a lifted truck I went with the round bar-no ground clearance issues to deal with. Also heard of people losing trunion bars while traveling, eventually wear and fall out.
With the cams, it prevents sway. While the old friction pad only reduces sway. Also have to disengage pad while backing up. Also hooking up pad is another step to do. Campers longer than 25' is recommend for 2 friction pads.
Installation was pretty straight forward, watched some videos-etrailer has some good ones and read the installation manual numerous times before install. Lots of measuring and a couple of hours for installation. Still working good with no real signs of wear, very happy with it. Today Curt, Blue Ox and some others have come up with some similar setups.
 

skeets

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BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,213
2,872
113
SW Pa
I dont know a thing about hitches other than back in high school a friends Dad owned a trailer sales place. They did hitches too I think it was Resse hitches he sold,, Anyway When there was a local parade his Dad would hook a trailer up to his Toranado and take the back tires off the car and drive it in the parade,, I thought that was the coolest thing ever
 

NEPA Guy

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B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
Nov 28, 2015
424
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18
Pennsyltucky
I finally ordered the Equalizer hitch 12K 1,200lb. Got it down with some deals to around $500 with the shank and ball from etrailer. Should be in next week sometime. I also picked up the tongue weight scale so I can be on point. I'm looking forward to getting it setup so I can practice with my trailer.
 

Southern Yankee

New member

Equipment
L3301 HST, Front Loader. Land Pride Brush-Hog, Box Blade, and Quick Hitch
May 21, 2016
46
1
0
Wellston, Oklahoma
I am very leery about towing my L3301 and I had it delivered. I have a Chevy 1500, V-6 automatic, 6 ft. 6 in. bed, trailer mode equipped, with a dealer installed hitch rated at 5,000 lbs. I am using a Reese 3 ¼ in. step-down hitch with a 2 in. ball also rated at 5,000 lbs. The trailer is Kubota supplied package deal 18 ft. Lamar with dual axles, electric brake (which I doubt I can use; I did not see anything in the truck manual about electric brake operation while towing). The trailer has 12 in.rails, an open back, and heavy duty ramps. The label says it is rated for 5,100 lbs with a GVWR of 7000 lbs.

The day came when I had to bite the bullet for a scheduled inspection (50 hour, I am too old to crawl under this thing). I made sure all tires were properly serviced (trailer tires were 10 psi low). With the tractor forward, the hitch safety chains were hitting the ground but I expected that. I centered the tractor, driving the front wheels onto the ramps to act as chocks and I blocked the rear wheels with a fence post. Put the FEL bucket edge down and used a 2 in. cargo strap over the FEL. I figured I was real close to the 5,000 lbs total limits. My biggest fear was a panic stop as only the trailer rails would hold it with all the other restraints only retarding forward movement.

The dealer is 26 miles away, straight shot highway (after 2 miles of dirt road) over Oklahoma hill and dale with four traffic lights. I like to tow with the tailgate down so I can watch the load. Truck handled it well at about 2,500 rpm but it liked to hold shifts too long in the trailer mode. I knew it would be a bear to stop this rig quickly but it never happened.

OK guys, I got away with it but was it right?

Richard
 
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spacemanspiff

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M5-111
Dec 4, 2015
99
2
6
Lower ,AL
When I sold my 30 hp tractor, the guy had a truck with a hemi and was convinced his truck could pull anything. He left out though my gravel drive and the tractor pushed him right out into the road. I tried to warn him that he needed trailer brakes. Thank God there was no traffic.
 
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lugbolt

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ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
4,881
1,617
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Mid, South, USA
Sounds like the OP has got it figured out...aside from owning a toyota (but that's my personal opinion working here...)

Anyway I've been down this road. 24' enclosed with car inside. Trailer is 3500 lbs even. Car + tools and junk another 3490. Right at 7000 lbs give or take a few. I used to pull it with a 2003 F150 Lightning; and it pulled "great". Plenty of power, brakes decent, etc. In '13 I traded the Lightning for a 2003 F250 diesel. I thought to myself, I'll be fine pulling on the ball-it's not "that" heavy. And for the most part, it's not. And I was used to pulling with a 1/2 ton truck (a real 1/2 ton not a 3/8 ton), and it was fine for the 9 years I owned it. Read on.

In early '14 I found a smoking deal on an equalizer hitch setup. Having never used one, I was reluctant, but for the price, I couldn't pass it up-figured I could flip it and make about $200 on it. Decided to try it. Once set up properly, it is literally a daylight and dark difference from pulling on the ball only. Even with the F250, when an 18 wheeler passes you at, say, 75 mph, you felt it. You had to steer. On a windy day, forget it. Park and wait for the wind to die down. Then I put the E2 on. HUGE difference. MUCH more confident, in every aspect of towing that trailer. Yes it's a pain to set it up properly. Yes it takes longer to hook and unhook the trailer. But those are minor inconveniences compared to potentially taking out someone's rig, or mine, or worse taking someone's life, from an even mildly ill-handling tow rig. I even looked the F250's towing capacities. 12,500 lbs. But when I looked at the factory-installed hitch, it showed 600/6000. I'm like what in the world? I read further...600/6000 is on the ball only. 1300/13000 weight distributing. And now I understand why there is such a big difference....

There is SOOOO much more to pulling a load behind your truck then just hooking on and going. Trust me, I see stupid crap all day every day; ranging from leaving the ramps down and dragging them for miles (and not knowing....?????) to not latching the coupler and taking out tailgates and back windows on expensive SUV's and trucks, to pulling a trailer that has a 2 5/16" coupler on a 1 7/8" ball, and wondering why the thing is rattling. No lights (none at all, not even installed), lights inoperative, no grounds, no brakes, bad brakes, junk tires, huge holes in wood floors, bent and broken FRAMES, axles welded to the frames solidly....etc. Just amazes me, but anymore, it's entertainment, because 99% of the people that own/pull this junk don't care, and you can't tell them any differently without them getting defensive. Had one last week, he loads his tractor and the tongue flips up off of the ball, takes out the back glass of an escalade as well as the rear door. Blames it on me for not checking it (and I had nothing to do with it other than driving the tractor TO the trailer-but not onto it). I check his setup. 1 7/8" ball, 2 5/16" coupler. I advised him of the situation and he argued saying that he's pulled that trailer with that ball for over 25 years. So I took it as "you can't fix stupid", and therefore at that point I quit trying.
 

Daren Todd

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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
May 18, 2014
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Lugbolt, are you talking about trailers like this one :eek:




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