Modding old gas log splitter to new BX23S

PaulR

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Found a non-running gas log splitter on CL for relatively cheap.
Can I drop the motor off this thing, fab a 3 point hitch, get the right flat top connectors and hook it up to my
backhoe hydraulics?

splitter3.jpg
 

Fordtech86

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Yes, no, maybe so…

If it were me I would do a predator swap and leave it as a stand alone splitter.


They used to send out coupons and they would have them for $99.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Found a non-running gas log splitter on CL for relatively cheap.
Can I drop the motor off this thing, fab a 3 point hitch, get the right flat top connectors and hook it up to my
backhoe hydraulics?

View attachment 69051
Yes but a replacement engine is probably easier and cheaper.

And before you hook that thing up to the return into your tractor hydraulics run some new UDT through it.. On mine I just put the return hose in a bucket and cycled the cylinder a couple times. I suggest a 5 gallon bucket because that was close to 4 gallons of fluid.

Dan
 

Nicfin36

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Like said, I think you would be better served by just replacing the engine. More advantages to having a stand-alone splitter than a tractor mounted one IMO.
 
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Old_Paint

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Building my own 3PH mounted splitter was an idea I was kicking around too, but what everyone else is saying about the old fluid in the cylinder is exactly what made me shy away from it, and even squelched the idea completely. The next caveat with the oil is that not all seals are compatible with all hydraulic fluids. That would be a bad thing to find out as you're splitting a piece of wood and oil is spraying everywhere. It's already a 'sealed loop' that doesn't need your tractor's oil. Keeping it that way is the safest thing for your tractor.

The parts to connect it to your tractor safely are very likely going to cost more than either repairing the engine that's on that splitter, or putting a new Predator on it as suggested. That's a Briggs Industrial engine, so maybe it only needs a new carb. The fuel shut-off valve just below the tank looks like it may be shut off. If that's the problem, you probably got a dynamite deal on that. Looks like they at least kept a tarp over it to keep rain out of the gas tank and hydraulic tank. HF has new tires already mounted for about $30 each. Or, they also have tubes you can put in those if you just like the torture of handling tires that small. That really looks like it's barely used and doesn't need a lot to fix. If there isn't a hole in the side of the block of that engine, and it will turn over at all, I doubt it would take more than an hour or so to get it running. It would probably take longer to change the oil in it and purge the hydraulics with fresh fluid. If the pump is locked up, you will probably still be miles ahead replacing the pump. One has to wonder if that's the actual "engine" problem. Take the pump off the engine and see if it'll turn over.

I wanted to find one similar that I could buy an external pump to use with it and adapt it to my 3PH. That type of splitter is very expensive because of the dedicated pump. But, that might be another option if you can figure out a way to adapt the existing pump and get it connected to the PTO, however, you're going to want to make sure you verify and test the pressure relief. It would definitely be over powered by your BX, with some risk of hose rupture or pump grenading if the pressure relief doesn't work. Then, my next idea was to get a rated pump to use at the PTO, but they seem to cost nearly as much as that splitter in the photo. SO, plan B shot down.

I know WHY you want to do the conversion, and WHY I decided against any splitter that shares my transmission/hydraulic oil with my tractor. I could buy 21 of those splitters for the cost to replace my tractor. Considering one 5 gallon bucket of SUDT2 is currently nearly $100 here, I can't imagine it being much better where you are. Same $100 will get you a brand spanking new Predator engine. $30 will get you a new carb, spark plug, and air filter for that Briggs. It may well be worth the effort to try repairing what you have first.

The Predator I bought for an old Troybilt tiller cranks better and runs better than any Briggs engine I have. I turn on the fuel shutoff, set the choke, set the throttle, turn on the kill switch, and normally, first pull, it cranks and runs. That's hard to argue with. When I know I'm not going to use it again for a while, I just turn off the fuel and let it empty the carb bowl before I roll it back into the shop. 3 years later, it still runs like a scalded dog. It also increased the HP of the tiller from 6 HP to 6.5 HP. Not a huge increase, but with OHV, it runs quieter and better than the old original Tecumseh ever did. The rings on the original engine are stuck and the blow-by is terrible. I seriously doubt I could do enough to it to keep it running because Tecumseh no longer supplies repair parts for that model engine. I hate to do it, but looks like the old engine is on it's way to the scrap yard. The tiller was my mom's, and has some sentimental value, which was my sole purpose for restoring it.

Just chiming in, but it's your splitter and your tractor. Do what you think is best for you.
 
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leveraddict

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Ill bet with a little TLC that engine will fire right up!
 
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TheOldHokie

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If Horror Fright sells it, you can bet your bottom dollar that it is a cheap piece of China junk!
Manufactured in China by Lifan Group currently doing business in the USA as Lifan Power USA. Their Honda clones have a solid reputation and at 1/3 the price are very popular.

Lifan Power USA

Dan
 
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Chanceywd

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I have a stand alone splitter and prefer not to mix fluids too. But I have a 3pt trailer receiver I made and I welded some 2" box solidly on the splitter. I can then put it on the 3pt to take where I want and can leave it in the woods to use or on the tractor. I try to handle my wood as few as times as possible and this helps. The 3pt mount is way better for me than towing the splitter and trying to back it up. Not putting hours on the tractor to split is a big plus too.

Bill
 
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TheOldHokie

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I have a stand alone splitter and prefer not to mix fluids too.

Bill
C'mon guys this sharing fluid business is silly.

  • People love loaders - they mix fluids.
  • People love grapple buckets - they mix fluid.
  • People love back hoes - they mix fluids.
  • People love angling blades - they mix fluids.
  • People love hydraulic post drivers - they mix fluids.
  • People love bank mowers like the Lane Shark - it mixes fluid

A log splitter is no different. Its a hydraulic implement designed for use on tractors that are designed to run all manner of hydraulic implements. There are legitimate pros and cons to 3pt log splitters but sharing fluid isn't one of them.

Dan
 
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Chanceywd

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C'mon guys this sharing fluid business is silly.

  • People love loaders - they mix fluids.
  • People love grapple buckets - they mix fluid.
  • People love back hoes - they mix fluids.
  • People love angling blades - they mix fluids.
  • People love hydraulic post drivers - they mix fluids.
  • People love bank mowers like the Lane Shark - it mixes fluid

A log splitter is no different. Its a hydraulic implement designed for use on tractors that are designed to run all manner of hydraulic implements. There are legitimate pros and cons to 3pt log splitters but sharing fluid isn't one of them.

Dan
While I agree we have all these attachments, I can take the splitter into the woods then use forks or the trailer to move the wood out as I split. Not tying the tractor up to one task helps me do it. I respect your ways if they work for you. I can use the grapple on the front to move logs to cut and then split too, in the woods or at the house.

I also have given thought to draining the fluid on the splitter to change to the same as tractor, then installing quick couplings so I could hook to my backhoe couplings if I didn't want to run off splitter motor as matter of choice. Just a lot of extra work right now.

Bill
 

TheOldHokie

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While I agree we have all these attachments, I can take the splitter into the woods then use forks or the trailer to move the wood out as I split. Not tying the tractor up to one task helps me do it. I respect your ways if they work for you. I can use the grapple on the front to move logs to cut and then split too, in the woods or at the house.

I also have given thought to draining the fluid on the splitter to change to the same as tractor, then installing quick couplings so I could hook to my backhoe couplings if I didn't want to run off splitter motor as matter of choice. Just a lot of extra work right now.

Bill
I am not arguing for or against 3pt splitters. I have an opinion and I will keep it to myself. I am just making the point that hydraulic fluid is a non-issue in the debate.

Dan
 

Chanceywd

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I am not arguing for or against 3pt splitters. I have an opinion and I will keep it to myself. I am just making the point that hydraulic fluid is a non-issue in the debate.

Dan
Please know I admire your informational posts about hydraulics etc. My problems might be different as I have a 8n which i installed a front pump and system about 10 years ago. It has worked great for me with over time I have added hydraulics for a dump trailer, rear blade angle, and york rack. I set that all up using TSC fluid. So fast forward to last year I got my Kubota. I have teed the 3rd function so it goes to the back to so i can run all these things on the kubota too, But, I won't do it until I have drained and changed the hydraulics on the 8N and all the other cylinders as I don't want that Tsc fluid mixing in the kubota,
Does that make sense? Thought about getting one new cylinder from that ebay place as that is where I got all the others just to switch on the rake and blade for now and it would be a spare.

Bill
 

TheOldHokie

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Please know I admire your informational posts about hydraulics etc. My problems might be different as I have a 8n which i installed a front pump and system about 10 years ago. It has worked great for me with over time I have added hydraulics for a dump trailer, rear blade angle, and york rack. I set that all up using TSC fluid. So fast forward to last year I got my Kubota. I have teed the 3rd function so it goes to the back to so i can run all these things on the kubota too, But, I won't do it until I have drained and changed the hydraulics on the 8N and all the other cylinders as I don't want that Tsc fluid mixing in the kubota,
Does that make sense? Thought about getting one new cylinder from that ebay place as that is where I got all the others just to switch on the rake and blade for now and it would be a spare.

Bill
Yes it makes sense and would it surprise you to know I am in the exact same situation with two other tractors one of which is an 8N. The other is an old B7200.

Just FYI i have been building and selling hydraulic conversion kits for N-series tractors for just about 20 years so i am quite familiar with your situation. Did you roll your own or are you using one of mine?

Dan
 
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Chanceywd

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Yes it makes sense and would it surprise you to know I am in the exact same situation with two other tractors one of which is an 8N. The other is an old B7200.

Just FYI i have been building and selling hydraulic conversion kits for N-series tractors for just about 20 years so i am quite familiar with your situation. Did you roll your own or are you using one of mine?

Dan
I assembled my own. I got some from surplus center. I made a bracket behind the seat for about a 5 gal tank. Brkt on the right for loader valve which controls lift and power angle on a dearborn frt plow for snow.
This might interest you, I made mount and second holes on 3pt stuff to use a hydraulic cylinder to lift 3 point. works well and overrides the 8n lift. I leave that out of gear unless I need it when using the hyd for the front plow. It works great for my skidded fire wood as you know how the n has nothing with the clutch in. Not a show tractor but a worker. Also adapted a electric steering to it for the old shoulders.

Bill
 
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TheOldHokie

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I assembled my own. I got some from surplus center. I made a bracket behind the seat for about a 5 gal tank. Brkt on the right for loader valve which controls lift and power angle on a dearborn frt plow for snow.
This might interest you, I made mount and second holes on 3pt stuff to use a hydraulic cylinder to lift 3 point. works well and overrides the 8n lift. I leave that out of gear unless I need it when using the hyd for the front plow. It works great for my skidded fire wood as you know how the n has nothing with the clutch in. Not a show tractor but a worker. Also adapted a electric steering to it for the old shoulders.

Bill
I use the tractor for the resservoir and convert the 3pt to luse the front pump. I have considered putting cylinders on the 3pt linkage and dumping that Gawd Awful internal pump and valve altogether but that means you lose draft control. We have pretty much hijacked this thread so to be polite going forward PM me if you'd like to discuss the 8N in greater length.

Dan
 

Chanceywd

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I use the tractor for the resservoir and convert the 3pt to luse the front pump. I have considered putting cylinders on the 3pt linkage and dumping that Gawd Awful internal pump and valve altogether but that means you lose draft control. We have pretty much hijacked this thread so to be polite going forward PM me if you'd like to discuss the 8N in greater length.

Dan
I agree, maybe I can get a few pictures.
bill
 

leveraddict

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Beware of advise given on forums! LOL!
PaulR That splitter looks barely used! Ill bet it just sat too long and the previous owner had no mechanical experience to get it going again.
I cant believe everyone is throwing a new engine at it without trying to get it going. So before these guys spend all your money I would drain and rinse with gas the fuel tank, remove the bowl on the carb, make sure the needle and seat are clean and blow air through the fuel line leading into the carb.
Reassemble and try to start it! Probably just old stale gas!
I just bought a nearly brand new snow blower for my daughter that did not run for $200. I had it running like a top in 30 minutes! Remember fuel stabilizer is your friend! Good luck!
 
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Chanceywd

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Beware of advise given on forums! LOL!
PaulR That splitter looks barely used! Ill bet it just sat too long and the previous owner had no mechanical experience to get it going again.
I cant believe everyone is throwing a new engine at it without trying to get it going. So before these guys spend all your money I would drain and rinse with gas the fuel tank, remove the bowl on the carb, make sure the needle and seat are clean and blow air through the fuel line leading into the carb.
Reassemble and try to start it! Probably just old stale gas!
I just bought a nearly brand new snow blower for my daughter that did not run for $200. I had it running like a top in 30 minutes! Remember fuel stabilizer is your friend! Good luck!
I would have to agree after going back and looking. That doesn't look like it has had much use.

Bill