appreciate some input from all my new friends out there. I recently moved into the new tractor owner category having purchased a 2022 LX2610. I loved my 1987 John Deere 855 compact diesel but after 20 years it is worn out and we decided to move into a new Kubota. My problem is after only 36 hours we have gone through over 2 quarts of hydraulic fluid. The yellow dipstick for the golden hydraulic oil (don't get me started on that!) has been at or below the fill line 4 times already. We have crawled underneath and have not seen any evidence of any leaks. We just had 50 hour service done on it at our Kubota dealer and told him our problem and they could not find any leaks or any evidence that fluid is leaking or mixing in other areas internally where it is not supposed to be. Obviously something is going on that shouldn't be but no one has any idea what it is. wonder if anyone has any experience with this or any ideas where the fluid is disappearing to. Thanks.
maintenance
- Thread starter grayseals734
- Start date
Go to your Deere dealer to purchase a bottle of the hydraulic oil dye, and install that into the oil. It has to be going somewhere, so start checking all the cylinders, especially at the hose connections. Unfortunately, the Super UDT is not very vicious and it can hide well.
mcmxi
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Lifetime Member
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***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
Your hydraulic system holds 15 quarts so two quarts doesn't seem like a huge amount of oil if the level has stabilized. Obvious things to think about include are you checking the level at the same temperature, is the tractor on level ground, are you connecting to hydraulic implements that have no oil, are cylinders extended or retracted consistently etc.
armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
I would run the tractor and work it as always and check the fluid level right after shutting it down for the day. Check the level when the tractor is parked in the same place every day. If the level stays the same each time you check it at the end of the day, then do not add any more fluid. The hydraulic oil may be seeping from the overflow when the oil becomes hot (working temp). If that is happening then you may not see it unless you are looking very carefully.
thx for response mcmxi. I think only variable is the temp which I can't control as tractor is not in a heated area. It is checked in same location every time on level ground. I have refilled resevoir each time it is low so we continue to lose fluid. we have a front end loader and roto tiller on back which are always stored in the down position. Rototiller connected to 3 point hitch and rear PTO but no other hydraulic connections. Seems like dip stick registers low at a pint so if it holds 15 quarts then percentage wise it's not a big deal as you said which is good news. It's not going to damage anything. Still seems like a significant loss for only 36 hours of use. Hope to find out where it is going.
Thx for input Vlach7. Sorry you got the run around too but at least I know it's happening other places too. Sorry but what is HST?
Thx Dusty Rusty. Sounds like a good suggestion. Been nice if Kubota dealer would have done that when I just had it in for maintenance.
The only mysteries are those that they don't care to solve. Most shops today don't want to look for anything except for the payment paid to the shop. Before I was married, I would stay up all night trying to figure out why something wasn't working the way it was designed. Now I am too old to stay up past dinner time. I am falling asleep as I type this. I will be back in the middle of the night with more thoughts since I can't sleep through the night either. Old age is nothing to look forward to, hence my sleepiness.
LOL I'm 71 myself DustyRusty. Understand completely! Probably not the most practical time in life to buy a new tractor, cost more than any car I ever bought, and my kids will probably sell it before they ever use it but what the heck. We needed something that didn't break downs often as we do.
Don't go to JD, get some real oil trace dye with the UV light. If you get it on the Amazon, make sure the dye glows under the UV light first. If not, return it. Lots of bogus stuff there.
Anyway, clean the tractor like it's a Bently. All the fittings, hoses and drain plugs. Put the dye in and use the machine. You don't need to do any "real" work. Drive it around, pick stuff up, put stuff down, do the hokey pokey....Then park it in a garage or wait till dark and search with the light. Check the engine oil dipstick also. Some machines can cross contaminate.
Anyway, clean the tractor like it's a Bently. All the fittings, hoses and drain plugs. Put the dye in and use the machine. You don't need to do any "real" work. Drive it around, pick stuff up, put stuff down, do the hokey pokey....Then park it in a garage or wait till dark and search with the light. Check the engine oil dipstick also. Some machines can cross contaminate.
NCL4701
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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Subject to the disclaimer that I’m not familiar with your specific model…
1. If you’re parking it on gravel or dirt or grass, a small leak may be near impossible to see on the ground. May be even harder if it only leaks when running because only a small amount would drip off when parked. The dye suggested above may help with that. If parking over dirt, a cheap tarp on the ground in a color that contrasts with the dye may help isolate it. (Edit: Evil Twin’s UV dye suggestion is better IMO.)
2. Since you’re checking the hydraulic fluid level often, I sort of assume you’re doing the same with engine oil. If it’s losing hydraulic oil and gaining engine oil, that’s worse than it leaking out on the ground somewhere. If that’s happening it needs to go back to the dealer for warranty repair on the bad seals between engine and transmission. (That’s where the “not familiar with your specific model” comes in, but if it’s migrating into the engine oil that has to be fixed.)
3. There are a lot of nooks, crannies, and potential air pockets, particularly in a HST tractor. If the dealer who set it up filled it, ran it around a little, and filled it again 2qt and 36hr kind of sounds like a lot. If they filled it up and the only place it ran was onto a trailer to deliver it to you, it’s within the realm of possibility it’s air pockets, particularly if it’s a HST. If it magically stabilizes, that would be my bet.
1. If you’re parking it on gravel or dirt or grass, a small leak may be near impossible to see on the ground. May be even harder if it only leaks when running because only a small amount would drip off when parked. The dye suggested above may help with that. If parking over dirt, a cheap tarp on the ground in a color that contrasts with the dye may help isolate it. (Edit: Evil Twin’s UV dye suggestion is better IMO.)
2. Since you’re checking the hydraulic fluid level often, I sort of assume you’re doing the same with engine oil. If it’s losing hydraulic oil and gaining engine oil, that’s worse than it leaking out on the ground somewhere. If that’s happening it needs to go back to the dealer for warranty repair on the bad seals between engine and transmission. (That’s where the “not familiar with your specific model” comes in, but if it’s migrating into the engine oil that has to be fixed.)
3. There are a lot of nooks, crannies, and potential air pockets, particularly in a HST tractor. If the dealer who set it up filled it, ran it around a little, and filled it again 2qt and 36hr kind of sounds like a lot. If they filled it up and the only place it ran was onto a trailer to deliver it to you, it’s within the realm of possibility it’s air pockets, particularly if it’s a HST. If it magically stabilizes, that would be my bet.
If you want to park it on something, get a refrigerator box from an appliance store and put that down. It will show any oil leaks and also make it more comfortable to slide around under the tractor while looking for the leak. Even a washing machine carton will work.
Hydro Static Transmission, I AssUMed yours had that also, on the positive side that problem seemed to go away after 400hrs, Im at 690hrs now.
Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I put the JD dye in mine and I'm sure glad I did.
Just recently I had a mishap and I was able to shut the machine down quickly because the red dye in the snow stuck out like a sore thumb.
It makes checking the fluid level much easier too.
![20240302_114622[1].jpg](https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachments/20240302_114622-1-jpg.124091/)
Just recently I had a mishap and I was able to shut the machine down quickly because the red dye in the snow stuck out like a sore thumb.
It makes checking the fluid level much easier too.
Elliott in GA
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LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
When you check your hydro oil, do you remove the dipstick for a few moments (dipstick loose in the tube for around 30 seconds) then reinsert to check the actual level?
The dipstick seal can cause air to be trapped in the dipstick tube, and this air can cause the level on the dipstick to read low. You then add extra/unneeded oil which is later blown out the breather.
I found that my oil level always reads lower before I wait for it to rise. Now, I: pull the dipstick loose, then open tractor's hood and then check the oil level (always good - no loss).
The dipstick seal can cause air to be trapped in the dipstick tube, and this air can cause the level on the dipstick to read low. You then add extra/unneeded oil which is later blown out the breather.
I found that my oil level always reads lower before I wait for it to rise. Now, I: pull the dipstick loose, then open tractor's hood and then check the oil level (always good - no loss).