Lost power steering on L2550

[foresterdj]

Sadly, no matching O-Rings or crush washers found in town so had Kubota dealer order them, will be a week yet.

Took old pump apart to view damage.
Main shaft spined on front with two tangs on rear. These are supposed to engage slot inside a bushing housed in front of the PS side of pump. The main shaft tangs almost completely gone and the shoulders inside the bushing which they should engage to also stripped out. The PS shaft had it's tangs partly worn, as we're the shoulders in its side of the bushing. I will try to post pictures.

 

[foresterdj]

Took some pictures, but the video I posted to YouTube shows it best. Go to You Tube and search for Kubota hydraulic pump issues, or go to this link (I hope).

https://youtu.be/6wV6M0H3FTA

 

[200mph]

Thanks for posting the video!

Hope you can repair the old pump.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Looks like parts are available, but you'll be looking at around $500 in parts to fix it.

Would have been a better option before you got a whole new pump.

 

[foresterdj]

O-Rings finally arrived. Pump installed, no leaks, seems to actually steer better (quicker response) than before.

 

[BattlingBob]

I was plowing up the back yard to replant grass and I heard a wine and a pop / snap... kind of like a belt breaking (I realize that there is not a belt involved). Long story short the power steering immediately stopped working. The 3 pt still raises and lowers and the loader works fine as well. The tractor drives as normal but without power stearing (same as how a car drives without the power stearing operational). Any direction on what to check first, where the pump is for the power steering etc...

I believe that this is the DT (Not GST)

You direction is greatly appreciated.

Years ago, I had the same thing happen with my L2550. The power steering pump is piggybacked onto the main hydraulic pump rather than being a separate pump. I was able to rebuild the pump using a hardened 1/2" bolt as the shaft (cut and shaped with my Dremel tool) and metric bushings that fit perfectly into the housing, drilled out to exactly 1/2" interiors, as the seals. It took a lot of gradual shaping, reassembly, disassembly, and so on before everything fit back together perfectly--but it's now run a LOT longer than the original did. When I did this, a new pump was close to $600, which I did not have, and my tractor's serial number meant the pump could no longer use the factory rebuild kits which were offered for earlier models.
Worth a look, if you're reasonably handy, confident--and ultimately able to afford a new pump if things don't work out...