Not much room in the lower radiator hose to put anything. The cab heater line connects to the lower radiator hose on my BX23S, and you need to fight it just to get that small part into the hose and back onto the radiator. A Block heater is the only way to go.
Looks like my block heater crapped the bed…
- Thread starter Mowbizz
- Start date
Late to the party, but some block heaters have a sleeve that fits in the freeze plug, and threads for the heater element. With that style a replacement element is just threaded into the previously installed freeze plug thingy (technical term). May not make your job much easier this time, but down the road you may appreciate not having to mess with the freeze plug.
Also, FYI... starting the tractor while the block heater is operating can cause them to fail. Always disconnect the heater for a minute or two before starting your tractor.
Also, FYI... starting the tractor while the block heater is operating can cause them to fail. Always disconnect the heater for a minute or two before starting your tractor.
That would be very easy but the kit my dealer sells is one that the “sleeve” with the element built in is pounded into the freeze plug port and the connector for the AC plugs into it.
When I had my BX22, I would put the power onto the heater at 6 PM and leave it heating until 10 AM. Never did any harm.
We can blame this and that ad nauseum for “why” these things crap out…I blame whomever these are manufactured by…most likely chyna..
We're in a climate where block heaters tend to be plugged in for 3-4 months straight, and after several years of that they can degrade and fail. Usually they'll start tripping ground faults; open circuits are rare but do happen.
Also why I like the fancy cords with lighted ends for block heaters: so you know you've got power at least that far without testing.
Also why I like the fancy cords with lighted ends for block heaters: so you know you've got power at least that far without testing.
The block heater I bought from the dealer has a built in thermostat.
I used it for 1 season, next season it seemed dead.
So I bought a second. It was dead after about 1 month.
I checked the first one, it was(or seemed) good - checked it with ohmmeter.
It went in OK, then worked OK for about a week, then "dead" -
Seems like the thermostat ain't working right.
It is an in-line lower rad hose unit.
I can start the engine OK when dead cold , but it sure doesn't sound happy .
The thermostat is a closed / sealed unit.
Looking for alternative to rad hose heater
The tractor is a B5100
I used it for 1 season, next season it seemed dead.
So I bought a second. It was dead after about 1 month.
I checked the first one, it was(or seemed) good - checked it with ohmmeter.
It went in OK, then worked OK for about a week, then "dead" -
Seems like the thermostat ain't working right.
It is an in-line lower rad hose unit.
I can start the engine OK when dead cold , but it sure doesn't sound happy .
The thermostat is a closed / sealed unit.
Looking for alternative to rad hose heater
The tractor is a B5100
mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
GreensvilleJay
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Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
How ?
One way,
start it up, drive out of the garage, snags the power cable ( still in....), strips it, shorts it, ZZZZAPPPP, EMI kills the computer, tractor stops....
One way,
start it up, drive out of the garage, snags the power cable ( still in....), strips it, shorts it, ZZZZAPPPP, EMI kills the computer, tractor stops....
Ever check for current running through it?
There's no way to know unless you test it or touch the block near it.
I have an ammeter wired to my block heater now as well as the timer.
I only did the touch test. Doesn’t smatter now…I have the new unit which will be installed after the blower comes off in the spring. Meanwhile, I’m going to make use of a heater mat I used to use for my porch steps (one of a 4 piece set)
Just going to drape it over the engine and use it like a block heater in the cold weather. Some heat in the engine compartment is better than none.
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Maybe gradual heating of the coolant has little effect on the heating element but a quick rush of totally cold coolant might kill the hot element. Just a guess, maybe there is no need to be concerned.
The only time I had block-heater burn out was before I learned to use a HEAVY DUTY TIMER to control it.
I used to leave plugged in all night long... then, I graduated to using timer to turn it on 3 hours before I needed to start engine.
As a bonus, my electric bill dropped by significant amount by using timer.
Another reason a block-heater may burn out would be if antifreeze level was allowed to drop below the level of the heater. Without liquid to dissapate the heat.... a block-heater would burn out within 20 minutes.
I used to leave plugged in all night long... then, I graduated to using timer to turn it on 3 hours before I needed to start engine.
As a bonus, my electric bill dropped by significant amount by using timer.
Another reason a block-heater may burn out would be if antifreeze level was allowed to drop below the level of the heater. Without liquid to dissapate the heat.... a block-heater would burn out within 20 minutes.
mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
Find out the size of a freeze plug that is in between cylinders (more room there) and get an appropriately sized unit that will take the place of the plug.
Stay away from Katz heaters. Pure junk.
Direct quote from a leading block heater manufacturer (Phillips & Temro, Zero start):
"
I have had two heaters fail right after I installed. Can you tell me what is happening?
The most likely cause is that there isn’t sufficient coolant covering the heater. One of the possible issues is that the vehicle is started while the heater is still plugged in the power. This can cause an air pocket to form around the element, preventing the transfer of heat and causing the element to burn out."
There seems to be an ongoing problem with at least one of the companies making block heaters.
My 2018 GMC pickup has had a couple of recalls for its block heater, both the original and the initial revised designs were flawed. I believe Ford also experienced problems with their block heater supplier at some point. And my 40 KW standby generator came with a block heater that had a dead short internally but NOT to the shell (yes, I know resistance is lower cold but this one measured under 0.2 ohms contact to contact using the my Simpson 4 wire low resistance measurement setup). At least it was an easy replacement, the vendor sent a new one.
I don't use the block heater that often but my Deere 955 compact utility (1.4L 3 cyl Yanmar 33HP) hasn't experienced any issues in almost 30 years of ownership. I don't plan to use my Kubota F2690 for anything except grass so I didn't order it with a block heater having no desire to mow when it is well below freezing
Rodger
My 2018 GMC pickup has had a couple of recalls for its block heater, both the original and the initial revised designs were flawed. I believe Ford also experienced problems with their block heater supplier at some point. And my 40 KW standby generator came with a block heater that had a dead short internally but NOT to the shell (yes, I know resistance is lower cold but this one measured under 0.2 ohms contact to contact using the my Simpson 4 wire low resistance measurement setup). At least it was an easy replacement, the vendor sent a new one.
I don't use the block heater that often but my Deere 955 compact utility (1.4L 3 cyl Yanmar 33HP) hasn't experienced any issues in almost 30 years of ownership. I don't plan to use my Kubota F2690 for anything except grass so I didn't order it with a block heater having no desire to mow when it is well below freezing
Rodger
The ONLY reason I ever installed a block-heater was NOT FOR STARTING. (the glowplugs worked just fine down to below 0F.)
Instead, I installed block-heater to speed up getting heat in the cab.... unfortunately, the engine-heat went DOWN after starting engine in sub-zero ambient temperature. A small diesel engine simply does not generate enough heat at those ambient temperatures.
If the goal is simply to get the engine started... Using a solar-charger on the battery may be a better investment.
If the engine will not start 'on its own' (as delivered from factory)... suspect there is something else amiss.