So working on my l285. New hoses, new hydraulic pump, new fluid,cleaned filter and took apart the controls for the loaded and cleaned it up. Now I can raise and lower but no curl. When I use the handle ( outside handle for curl see pictures) it makes the hoses jump and wants to kill the engine. Any help out there? I’m lost at this point . Thanks
Loader curl
- Thread starter TAV
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
hoping that's an OLD picture, cause those hoses look BAD !
something in the 'curl' system is plugged or deadend
BTW are those street elbows rated for 2000PSI ??
something in the 'curl' system is plugged or deadend
BTW are those street elbows rated for 2000PSI ??
Couplers seated properly? On the controls? Put on new o rings and they seem to be seated if that’s what you mean . Can you tell me what you are referring to . Thanks for the reply and help
yep hose are bad haven’t replaced them yet as they didn’t leak. Need to get that done. Thanks for the
The hose on the side of the valve jump . I need to verify if they jump when trying to curl the bucket down or up, had to walk away last night and take a mental break
torch
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Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Something is plugged or not connected. The hose jump indicates that the pressure is spiking. Hopefully the relief valve is kicking in and preventing damage, but I don't think so. Tractor stalling suggests that the pressure is rising so high the engine can't turn the pump. Pressures that high can cause catastrophic damage, so don't do that any more until you have located the source of the problem.
Since the hose jumps but the relief apparently does not kick in, the problem may well be at the valve port itself.
Since the hose jumps but the relief apparently does not kick in, the problem may well be at the valve port itself.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
he says this...
Now I can raise and lower but no curl.
should mean in and out are fine to the valves are fine, it's JUST the 'curl' section is 'bad'.
Now I can raise and lower but no curl.
should mean in and out are fine to the valves are fine, it's JUST the 'curl' section is 'bad'.
TheOldHokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Guessung is not usually productive. Disconnect the two outside hoses at the loader and put them in a bucket. Start the tractor and verify you get flow out of each hose when you operate the bucket control lever. The flow should alternate with the lever. Forward should be one hose and back the other.
Dan
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The spool valve (Loader valve) that you have is a two line setup with no tank hose, thus there is no over pressure protection in that old valve so be very careful as an over pressure can burst a hose or burst a seal.
I think just to be clear and cut out the guessing game, give us a back account of why you changed hoses and hydraulic pump.
What was working or not working before you changed anything?
Why did you change the hydraulic pump?
Is this the pump that bolted behind the injection pump or is it one on the front of the tractor?
Where did you get the new pump?
Was it a part number matched pump or model matched pump?
Did it bolt on perfectly with no modifications?
The reason I ask is on several occasions I've seen hydraulic pumps that were installed that were actually the wrong pump and ran backwards.
Why did you change the Hoses?
I'm assuming from pictures you mean you replaced just the supply and return hoses.
Did you replace them one at a time or just took them both off and replaced them?
Is there any chance that those two hoses got swapped?
With a two line valve swapping power in and Power beyond can have some very weird outcomes.
You said you took the spool valves apart, did you do one section at a time or all of it at once?
Is there a possibility that you could have swapped the spools from one to the other.
While the two spools could have looked the same they could have been different.
When you took the lines off that go to the loader cylinders did you mark them and make sure they went back in exactly the same location?
Verify that the two lines in line with the handle go to the same cylinder.
I think just to be clear and cut out the guessing game, give us a back account of why you changed hoses and hydraulic pump.
What was working or not working before you changed anything?
Why did you change the hydraulic pump?
Is this the pump that bolted behind the injection pump or is it one on the front of the tractor?
Where did you get the new pump?
Was it a part number matched pump or model matched pump?
Did it bolt on perfectly with no modifications?
The reason I ask is on several occasions I've seen hydraulic pumps that were installed that were actually the wrong pump and ran backwards.
Why did you change the Hoses?
I'm assuming from pictures you mean you replaced just the supply and return hoses.
Did you replace them one at a time or just took them both off and replaced them?
Is there any chance that those two hoses got swapped?
With a two line valve swapping power in and Power beyond can have some very weird outcomes.
You said you took the spool valves apart, did you do one section at a time or all of it at once?
Is there a possibility that you could have swapped the spools from one to the other.
While the two spools could have looked the same they could have been different.
When you took the lines off that go to the loader cylinders did you mark them and make sure they went back in exactly the same location?
Verify that the two lines in line with the handle go to the same cylinder.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Looks like an inlet relief to me but I could be wrong. It has a tank port and no power beyond. It will relieve through the T port as long as that port is not blocked by a downstream device.
Dan
What NIF said is all good. I would also ask what happens when you bring the lift cylinders to either end of stroke. If the engine wants to stall then I bet you have inlet and outlet hoses swapped.
Inlet should connect to the inside fitting and return to the outside. You could take a pic of the connections on the other end of the hoses to clear that up.
One thing I noticed is the hose on the outside of the valve looks like a properly made hose but the inside connection the hose end fitting looks reused and the hose looks like push-lock or air hose due to the exposed cloth braiding. Also the ID is smaller than the crimp sleeve on the fitting. This makes me believe it is a low pressure hose that would not survive if connected properly.
Inlet should connect to the inside fitting and return to the outside. You could take a pic of the connections on the other end of the hoses to clear that up.
One thing I noticed is the hose on the outside of the valve looks like a properly made hose but the inside connection the hose end fitting looks reused and the hose looks like push-lock or air hose due to the exposed cloth braiding. Also the ID is smaller than the crimp sleeve on the fitting. This makes me believe it is a low pressure hose that would not survive if connected properly.
kubotasam
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Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
That is what a hydraulic hose looks like when all the rubber on the outside has cracked and fallen off. It exposed steel braiding that you are looking at.