Loaded rear tire balance

[tbronson]

B1700 with turf tires (rear: 33x12.50-15) filled halfway with calcium solution.

Valve fell out on one tire and it lost some fluid. After repair, by tapping, it seems about 3" lower than the other (one is at 9 o'clock level, the other between 7 and 8).

Is it important to have levels exactly equal, or is this amount of difference OK?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's way better if they are close, won't hurt anything it's just the tractor will function oddly with one tire filled more than the other.

 

[85Hokie]

B1700 with turf tires (rear: 33x12.50-15) filled halfway with calcium solution.

Valve fell out on one tire and it lost some fluid. After repair, by tapping, it seems about 3" lower than the other (one is at 9 o'clock level, the other between 7 and 8).

Is it important to have levels exactly equal, or is this amount of difference OK?

If you are going to "fix" the leaky one - go ahead and top them both off.
Setting the stem at 12 o'clock - and fill till it runs out will get your tire about 75-80% full - leaving a little air for shock. You never want 100% - and anything in the tire is better than nothing! I would not have CaCl in a tubeless tire however. Over the years the rims will rust out! Many have had them filled for 30 + years too!

 

[tbronson]

Thanks. I will get the fill topped up, but I'm wondering about how urgently. From asking around, a longer term issue is axle damage from uneven load. If I lost only 5-6 gallons that's already 40-50 lbs. Is possible damage in hundreds or thousands of hours of use, or much less? I'm curious, so I figure why not ask?!

 

[tbronson]

I would not have CaCl in a tubeless tire however. Over the years the rims will rust out! Many have had them filled for 30 + years too!

Grrr, one thing leads to another. They are tubeless, been filled for 10 years or more. Saw just the edge of the inner rim when putting in the new valve and it still had most of paint intact, didn't seem rusty (we managed to change valve just by pushing in part of the tire). But the escaped fluid was kinda reddish brown.

Think it's worth it to have tires removed to fully check rim for rust? Probably $250-300 to put in tubes and refill at the shop, so that vs destroyed rims at some point...?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

My choice, have them taken down, tubed and refilled.

 

[Thorny]

with the rear diff being an open carrier, I'm not sure how an uneven load would hurt it. one tire will spin easier, but the open diff manages that difference naturally.

If it were mine, I'd even it up just because. I'd hate to be driving on a side hill at some point in the future and lose control because I expected more ballast than I actually had.

As for removing the tire, if there is rust in there, you'll need to clean and treat it to make sure the rust doesn't wear a hole in your new tube. If there is rust on the bead and you remove the tire, it may not seal perfectly on re-install without a tube. If it were mine, I'd run it as is and replace the wheel down the road if needed. Don't fix what isn't broke.

 

[1970cs]

How's about steel valve stems and rim guard. Of course you will probably get hit with a disposal fee for getting rid of the old brine.

Pat