Leak from propeller shaft

[coriolis2k]

I was fortunate to find this site a few weeks ago while looking for options to convert my LA480 bucket to some type of QD system......GREAT site!

I purchased, what I believe to be, a ~1999 L4200GST with 750 hours on it a few months back. First thing I did was replace all fluids and filters, even though previous owner kept pretty good records and had been keeping up on all maint. according to the factory recommendations. I also purchased The Kubota L3600-4200 Illustrated Parts List, Operators Manual, as well as the Work Shop Manual.....glad I have them now.

Yesterday while moving snow around my place, I noticed a small stream of hydraulic fluid on the ground where I was working. Immediately parked the tractor in my basement shop. Upon inspection I found the leak. After coming here and consulting my shop manuals, I found the name of the parts where the leak was manifesting itself, propeller shaft, and what the mostly likely cause is. I also did some youtube searching and found video's on how to replace potentially bad seals........not what I was looking forward to doing this upcoming week.

Here are my questions:
1. In one of the post I found this: " It turns out that on a few of us early serial number grand L series (L2900 Serial numbers 00001-61866, L3300 00001-54019, L3600 00001-56733, L4200 00001-57185, DT and GST) tractors we need a sleeve and o rings to keep our propeller shaft from moving back and fourth and damaging the oil seals in the shaft. Service Bulletin # AG001-98. " Does this mean if it was not done on my tractor at the factory I "could" get some break if I had a Kubota dealer do the work?

2. Is splitting the tractor absolutely necessary to replaced the seals? I read that some thought it was not, but I have yet to see pictures/video's of the repair without splitting.

3. I am not a mechanic like many I have seen here. I am a Field Engineer for a medical device manufacture, where I install and maintain CT/MRI type equipment. I have also replaced timing belt on wifes Honda mini-van, so I know my way around tools and have a good place to do the work.....Should I attempt even if splitting is required?

4. And finally, after I parked the tractor and most of the fluid leaked out of the split pin and propeller shaft, I will not start. I am assuming this is a safety interlock so you don't damage anything if the fluid get too low. I made the mistake of pulling the pins forward and aft on the LA480 and now cannot get the bucket gear off. Any ideas on how I can get it off without having to fill with hydraulic fluid just to have it leak out??

Thanks in advance for the help and sorry for such a long first post.......figured too much info is better than too little.

V/R
Coriolis2K

 

[Russell King]

I don’t think that Kubota has any protection for low fluid levels so I think you may have something else to repair before you start the leak repair.

On the leak repair you should be able to do that yourself but I suggest that you get an estimate from the dealer on cost and length of time. I have never split a tractor so can’t give advice on difficulty level but if you can be safe doing it, it can be done in worse situations than where you have it (assuming your basement has a level concrete floor)

 

[whitetiger]

I was fortunate to find this site a few weeks ago while looking for options to convert my LA480 bucket to some type of QD system......GREAT site!

I purchased, what I believe to be, a ~1999 L4200GST with 750 hours on it a few months back. First thing I did was replace all fluids and filters, even though previous owner kept pretty good records and had been keeping up on all maint. according to the factory recommendations. I also purchased The Kubota L3600-4200 Illustrated Parts List, Operators Manual, as well as the Work Shop Manual.....glad I have them now.

Yesterday while moving snow around my place, I noticed a small stream of hydraulic fluid on the ground where I was working. Immediately parked the tractor in my basement shop. Upon inspection I found the leak. After coming here and consulting my shop manuals, I found the name of the parts where the leak was manifesting itself, propeller shaft, and what the mostly likely cause is. I also did some youtube searching and found video's on how to replace potentially bad seals........not what I was looking forward to doing this upcoming week.

Here are my questions:
1. In one of the post I found this: " It turns out that on a few of us early serial number grand L series (L2900 Serial numbers 00001-61866, L3300 00001-54019, L3600 00001-56733, L4200 00001-57185, DT and GST) tractors we need a sleeve and o rings to keep our propeller shaft from moving back and fourth and damaging the oil seals in the shaft. Service Bulletin # AG001-98. " Does this mean if it was not done on my tractor at the factory I "could" get some break if I had a Kubota dealer do the work? No, not after 20 years

2. Is splitting the tractor absolutely necessary to replaced the seals? I read that some thought it was not, but I have yet to see pictures/video's of the repair without splitting. You will have to split the tractor.

3. I am not a mechanic like many I have seen here. I am a Field Engineer for a medical device manufacture, where I install and maintain CT/MRI type equipment. I have also replaced timing belt on wifes Honda mini-van, so I know my way around tools and have a good place to do the work.....Should I attempt even if splitting is required? There is only one way you will ever find out.

4. And finally, after I parked the tractor and most of the fluid leaked out of the split pin and propeller shaft, I will not start. I am assuming this is a safety interlock so you don't damage anything if the fluid get too low. I made the mistake of pulling the pins forward and aft on the LA480 and now cannot get the bucket gear off. Any ideas on how I can get it off without having to fill with hydraulic fluid just to have it leak out?? There is no safety interlock to keep it from starting because of low hydraulic oil.

Thanks in advance for the help and sorry for such a long first post.......figured too much info is better than too little.

V/R
Coriolis2K

 

[coriolis2k]

Thanks for the reply’s, kinda expected this to be the case just hoping otherwise.
I will order the parts and get the process started.

 

[lugbolt]

only way to fix that leak is split the tractor. It's not that bad honestly. I've done probably a few dozen of them. The worst part is when you pull the propeller shaft out of the trans, the rear coupling tends to fall out and down into the transmission case. Not the end of the world but no fun to put it back on either. It doesn't always fall off but when it does you don't forget it. I used to have an old propeller shaft I ground the end down a little and welded a small bead to it....this enabled a repairer to push the shaft into the coupling, then put the coupling back onto the spline in the back of the transmission. There's other ways to do it but that's what I came up with that utilized the smallest amount of time. Dealer techs like working smartly and as fast as possible without screwing stuff up.

 

[coriolis2k]

Good tip, thanks. Are the support "legs" needed that I have seen some folks make using casters, some 1/2 or 1" square tubing and a metal plate needed, or could I just use a floor jack with some cribbing?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Good tip, thanks. Are the support "legs" needed that I have seen some folks make using casters, some 1/2 or 1" square tubing and a metal plate needed, or could I just use a floor jack with some cribbing?

I have done them both ways.
Doing it with the support legs, with casters, make things a whole lot easier to manage!

Just remember to block the front axle to the frame to keep it from being able to rock side to side!

 

[coriolis2k]

I have done them both ways.
Doing it with the support legs, with casters, make things a whole lot easier to manage!

Just remember to block the front axle to the frame to keep it from being able to rock side to side!

Thanks, I did not think of that.

 

[coriolis2k]

Ok, finally got the seals, bearing, spacer, and collers, replaced in the propeller shaft/transmition.......quite the job. Based on youtube video's and others suggestions, whent ahead and replaced the throw out bearing while I had it open and easily accessible. Tractor is completely put back together and holding fluid. Now I am back to the no start issue. When I turn the key on, the glow plug light and battery light comes. The GP light goes out pretty quickly but the battery light stays on. Rotate the key clockwise to start and nothing, no turn over no clicking, just nothing. I have the WSM, OM, as well as the IPL, just looking for a short cut as most likely place to start.