L3800 overheating

[bowbender6]

LA3800 overheating
I was mowing today and didn’t pay attention to the heat gauge. The grass seed and pollen had plugged the radiator and the tractor overheated and quit. I let it cool down and got it back on the trailer. When I got home I cleaned the radiator and checked the fluids. The water was low but still above the low mark. Now when I drive it around the yard it seems like it is overheating after a couple minutes. I shut it off when the gauge hit the bottom of the hot mark. I fear my stupid mistake has done some serious damage. Any ideas on where I should start or just take it into the dealer. Water pump?
Thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This statement bothers me, "The water was low but still above the low mark"

Where are you looking?
The radiator or the overflow reservoir?
As I haven't seen a "low mark in a radiator"

If the Radiator is still full and the fan is turning smooth and at speed and fan belt is tight, then you have either cracked the head or maybe you got lucky and just blew the head gasket.

Don't keep running it, as you'll do more damage.

FYI: It's an L3800 not LA3800, LA is the loader designation.

 

[CapnDean]

You don't say how long it took you to overheat it to the point that it shut down. If it overheated and shut down in the first say 5 minutes of mowing - then I would be looking for a stuck thermostat, a stopped up radiator, slipping belt on water pump, or bad water pump. If it ran a couple of hours and THEN overheated due to radiator clogging with debris - I would simply clean out the radiator. If cleaning the radiator and perhaps flushing it - doesn't resolve the problem. Then I would suggest taking a cheap infra red heat gun and checking temp of the water hose going in, and coming out of the radiator.

Worse case scenario is that you overheated it to the point that you warped the head and blew the head gasket. That would show up in one of several ways. Water in oil, Oil in radiator, or steam out of the exhaust pipe.

 

[Jim L.]

Sorry to add to the bad news.

Tractor is now overheating in a couple of minutes - almost to red line. The cylinder head must be removed and checked for cracking. A new head gasket will run about $100 just for the part. If the head is cracked, a new one runs about $1100, again just for the part.

The radiator needs to come off and have a thorough bath to get the crud out of the air fins.

There are other parts, such as gaskets, which will need to be replaced. Oil change and coolant change, maybe twice if they got into each other.

If you don't have a WSM, calibrated torque wrench, or time, this poor L3800 needs to go to the shop.

If you want to do it yourself, come back with questions.

 

[mickeyd]

Welcome to the forum Bowbender6. You came to the right place to get answers.

Sorry to hear about your problem. I would listen to Wolfman as he is one of the most knowledgeable people on here.

 

[bowbender6]

Thanks for the replies, Here is more info

Wolfman- reservoir water was just above low

CapnDean-I mowed for about 2 hours before it overheated, It overheats when I mow high grass if I forget to clean the screen. I just forgot today. I have an infrared temp gun and can check the water in and out of the radiator.

There was a knocking noise when it was hot, but now not so much, diesels kind of knock anyway, I think I will do a few more check and call the dealer in the morning.

First time on here, thanks for the help, I will post what I find out.

 

[Russell King]

How much water is in the radiator?

How does the oil look?


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[bowbender6]

I plan on checking tomorrow

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[bowbender6]

Update-Oil looks ok, put 4 qts of water in the radiator (6qt capacity) . Started the tractor with the radiator cap off, water bubbled out and a little smoke, I am guessing head, My son’s friend used to work for a Kubota dealer and he is going to listen to the engine and help me inspect the head.

 

[D2Cat]

You just as well get your wrenches out, take some pictures as you go, and make sure you keep the hardware somewhat organized. Not much need to listen to it any longer, just start removing everything needed to get the head off.

And for your radiator you need to clean in from both sides and use some kind of solvent (like purple power) to get all the fins cleaned out. Don't use high pressure water or air, or the fins will be bent closed.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Also DO NOT RUN IT anymore, especially now that you put water in it!
If it's got a cracked head (most likely) or severely blown head gasket, its going to fill a cylinder with water and if you crank it you can do even more serious damage, like break a piston, break a crank, or bend a rod.

 

[Jim L.]

Emphasis on DO NOT RUN IT ANYMORE.

Needs to be in a closed area to work on it. The head gasket has a number on the edge which must be matched when ordering replacement.

Both the head gasket and the cylinder head take some time to get. Plan on the L3800 being opened up for several weeks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Needs to be in a closed area to work on it.

HAHAHA...That's funny!

 

[Jim L.]

Yeah, man. Field expedient tarps won't cut it!

 

[Jim L.]

One thing not clear in the WSM for the L3200/L3800 is how to get the fuel tank out of the way.

Front end loader off.

The front bonnet (hood) has a connector to detach, and then 2 bolts to back out about half-way, lift piston detached, and the hood can be lifted off.

Rear bonnet off, instrument panel moved over.

Now for fuel tank as an assembly. Shown in first picture. Drain the tank. Remove and tape the hose ends and nipples.

Second picture shows the fuel sender connectors. Take those off and move connectors to rear behind the frame.

Third picture shows the electrical harness on right side upper of tractor. Only about three disconnects forward, then slide entire harness to the rear under frame and out of way.

 

[Jim L.]

Disconnect the tach cable from the instrument panel and move it forward out of way of fuel tank frame.

Disconnect the throttle rod that moves through the frame.

Left side of tractor, take out 2 small bolts shown in middle of first picture this post. They hold a shield to the frame.

Left and right side of tractor, upper middle of next picture, 2 bolts each side holding fuel tank frame to tractor. Take these out and you should be ready to lift the fuel tank up as an assembly.

 

[Jim L.]

Picture of fuel tank assembly consisting of fuel tank, shutter (shield), and frame. You don't need to and don't want to disassemble this.

Next picture shows the blocks used to attach the fuel tank assy. Reassemble by lowering the assy down onto these blocks. Viewpoint is from right side of tractor, looking down, valve cover on right side of picture.

With the fuel tank removed, you can now have access to adjust valve clearance, change head gasket, or change cylinder head.

When putting back together, the electrical harness must go across the top of the tank, and under the fuel tank frame. Other wise you will not be able to connect the headlight connector.

 

[Jim L.]

This picture shows a crack from the exhaust valve seat (small valve on left) to the pre-combustion chamber. (Middle of picture and to left, crack running vertical on picture. This is why the head needs to come off for inspection.

 

[Jim L.]

These are L3800 part numbers. Numbers change without notice. Not saying that you will need all of them, just sharing info. Be sure and check that the numbers are still good when ordering.

old new
cylinder head 1A013-03044 1G711-03040
injector copper gasket 15841-53622
injector heat seal 19077-53650
air inlet manifold gasket 1A021-11822
water gasket 1A021-72920
exhaust gasket 1A021-12350
water flange stud 15221-91530
exhaust stud 15221-91530
lift stud 15471-91530
exhaust valve 1G897-13120
intake valve 1G897-13110 07933-00010
valve stem seal 15221-13153

And the head gasket must be matched to the number on the edge of the gasket.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Jim,

Thanks for the tank removal steps. The mods need to make that a stickie somewhere!

I was refueling my tractor with one of the super well engineered California Air Resources Board (CARB) filler necks on my diesel storage tank and the clear plastic corrugated filler nozzle slipped off the end of the environment-saving device and disappeared into my tank, never to be seen again. Its been in there for nearly four years.

I have tried huge hemostats. Big parts grabbers. You name it. But no luck. Maybe the CARB experts meant for that to happen? Maybe it will help save my little part of the Earth? They wouldn't have put that on there if it wasn't good for the environment would they?

After watching your steps, I might simply turn the whole machine upside down some day... and shake it.

If that doesn't work, I'll refer to your well documented steps.