Recently the oil pressure light on my L295DT began coming on at odd times. I purchased it used from my neighbor a few months ago and before that I borrowed it often, so I'm familiar with running it. It has many thousands of hours on it-not sure exactly how many because the meter quit at 7000 some years ago. In any event other than some leaks and a rear tire that needs replacing it is a solid machine. Sometimes the oil pressure light would come on at low idle and I would just bump the throttle and it would turn off immediately. Now it seems to come on at random, high RPM, low RPM, cold, hot, etc...no rhyme or reason which has me hoping that its a bad sensor or bad wiring, but I'd like to attach an oil pressure gauge to be sure. No weird noises or excessive knocking so far though. Any suggestions on a specific gauge? I'm assuming I can just plug one into the port for the sending unit? Hole size? Thread?
L295DT Intermittent Oil Pressure Light?
- Thread starter Swamp_Yankee
- Start date
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
could be your sensor is bad -
Not sure that engine had the ol cam plug problem - where as the plug at the end of the cam came out thus allowing the oil pressure to drop once hot. Do not think this is your problem at 7000 hours however!
On those older machines - I think the threads are BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered ..... and a gauge will not have the connection! So an adaptor is needed - or you can "force" an NPT in there - which is not a perfect idea either. An adaptor can be found however.
The engine may just be worn - IT is a 40 year old machine! Using a heavier oil will be a band aid fix - but it just keeps the light off until the engine oil get good and hot ......... then it will come back on.
Not sure that engine had the ol cam plug problem - where as the plug at the end of the cam came out thus allowing the oil pressure to drop once hot. Do not think this is your problem at 7000 hours however!
On those older machines - I think the threads are BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered ..... and a gauge will not have the connection! So an adaptor is needed - or you can "force" an NPT in there - which is not a perfect idea either. An adaptor can be found however.
The engine may just be worn - IT is a 40 year old machine! Using a heavier oil will be a band aid fix - but it just keeps the light off until the engine oil get good and hot ......... then it will come back on.
So I guess the question is if I put a heavier oil in it and keep it clean, should I be OK running low oil pressure due to the fact that all of the tolerances and clearances are loose? Or am I heading for a rebuild soon? This is a two acre hobby farm tractor-not a daily workhorse. I use it to clear snow, lift heavy stuff, move firewood skid a log now and then, etc...as for the adapter for the British thread I'm sure McMaster-Carr will have it.
Last edited:
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
First put a gauge on it and find out what the oil pressure actually is.
Assuming the gauge shows the pressure is in fact falling under 7-10 PSI which is typical of an pressure warning indicator your engine is telling you the oil clearances are getting excessive. Not surprising with that many hours.
Bumping oil viscosity may make the light stay out but your engine is still worn and will continue to wear at an accelerated rate because the bearings are struggling to maintain an oil film regardless of what the light is doing. You can nurse it along for a while but its going to get worse so plan on a overhaul of the bearings in the not too distant future. At some point the engine is going to become unusable and Murphy says it will he at the worst time possible.
Dan
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
1st step would be to test the switch. Simply remove wire from sensor then ground the wire and see how the light behaves. When wire is grounds, light should come on, off when off.
If this happens, then replace the oil pressure switch....
There's NO way I'd put in 'heavier oil' based on a probably defective switch !
does that tractor have a real oil pressure GAUGE as well as idiot light ?
If this happens, then replace the oil pressure switch....
There's NO way I'd put in 'heavier oil' based on a probably defective switch !
does that tractor have a real oil pressure GAUGE as well as idiot light ?
For testing the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge you can probably just use a 1/4" brass fitting. Might use some Teflon tape if needed, but the brass will conform tight enough to the steel threads to get a reading.
If you plan on keeping the tractor as a working machine you might want to get the bearings, rings etc. replaced before you spin a bearing on the crankshaft. You gauld a crankshaft journal and finding another crank will be very difficult and expensive if found.
If you plan on keeping the tractor as a working machine you might want to get the bearings, rings etc. replaced before you spin a bearing on the crankshaft. You gauld a crankshaft journal and finding another crank will be very difficult and expensive if found.
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Is the oil thinning out from fuel dilution? The oil drop from the dipstick will show it. The fuel will wick out further than the oil on a paper towel.
Swamper…. I had a 1939 Ford Tractor with exactly the same behavior. I put a new gauge on it and it confirmed low oil pressure at idle…and when it got hot. I put SAE50 (straight weight) oil in it and ran it 5 years…. during which it indicated 5 psi at idle and 20 psi at high RPM. AFTER the 5 years…. I decided to be nice to it…and changed the oil. I again put in SAE50 motor oil and ran it another 5 years. (Yes…. I had it on a 5-year oil-change schedule.)
I put about 30-50 hours a year on that tractor mowing my grass runways with a too-large shredder. (That little tractor was worked only occasionally…but when it was worked it was worked HARD!)
After 15 years (due for a 4th oil change) … I returned it to the friend who had “given” it to me…and he sold it for almost $2K. (Without implements…. I kept those.). The new owner of that tractor is still running it, now 3 years into his ownership.
Originally I used straight, non-detergent aircraft engine oil SAE50. (I had several OLD cases of “expired” oil given to me by my local distributor. That oil was so old it was still in large quart metal cans!)
Subsequently I did the exact same oil again. Third oil change I used Valvoline “racing” SAE50 oil from NAPA.
It still showed 5 psi at idle and 20 psi at governed RPM.
Moral: Decide if you have extra money in your pocket you‘d rather spend on a tractor you’ll likely never wear-out within your lifetime…. or use heavy-weight oil and use it for the occasional times you do.
I put about 30-50 hours a year on that tractor mowing my grass runways with a too-large shredder. (That little tractor was worked only occasionally…but when it was worked it was worked HARD!)
After 15 years (due for a 4th oil change) … I returned it to the friend who had “given” it to me…and he sold it for almost $2K. (Without implements…. I kept those.). The new owner of that tractor is still running it, now 3 years into his ownership.
Originally I used straight, non-detergent aircraft engine oil SAE50. (I had several OLD cases of “expired” oil given to me by my local distributor. That oil was so old it was still in large quart metal cans!)
Subsequently I did the exact same oil again. Third oil change I used Valvoline “racing” SAE50 oil from NAPA.
It still showed 5 psi at idle and 20 psi at governed RPM.
Moral: Decide if you have extra money in your pocket you‘d rather spend on a tractor you’ll likely never wear-out within your lifetime…. or use heavy-weight oil and use it for the occasional times you do.
Last edited:
Well I picked up a cheap gauge from my local NAPA and now have a stupid question. Where is the sending unit??? Planning on tackling it this weekend.
First place I'd look is on the rear of the block on the left side (as you're setting on the tractor) below the head a few inched.
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
This new "cheap" gauge .......... mechanical or electrical?
Betting on mechanical - thus you have to have the ability to screw the "hose" into the lower block - and this will need the adapter as I mentioned ealier. I kept the old light by using a "TEE" fitting.
Betting on mechanical - thus you have to have the ability to screw the "hose" into the lower block - and this will need the adapter as I mentioned ealier. I kept the old light by using a "TEE" fitting.
Well...I'm happy to report that I'm just an idiot and that there is no real problem. While looking for the oil pressure sender I found the dipstick and realized that I haven't checked the oil level since I bought it 
Surprise, surprise, I was about 2 quarts low 
Put in some fresh 15w-40, topped it up, and no light at idle or otherwise...shame on me but at least it doesn't look like my stupidity causes any permanent damage. Also...I had said that the tractor had over seven THOUSAND hours on it...yeah...I misread the meter 
It has over seven HUNDRED. Needless to say all I need are some new rear tires and this machine will be good to go for many many years 
Surprise, surprise, I was about 2 quarts low Put in some fresh 15w-40, topped it up, and no light at idle or otherwise...shame on me but at least it doesn't look like my stupidity causes any permanent damage. Also...I had said that the tractor had over seven THOUSAND hours on it...yeah...I misread the meter It has over seven HUNDRED. Needless to say all I need are some new rear tires and this machine will be good to go for many many years
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Happy endingWell...I'm happy to report that I'm just an idiot and that there is no real problem. While looking for the oil pressure sender I found the dipstick and realized that I haven't checked the oil level since I bought it
Dan
At least now I have a feel for the rate at which it consumes/leaks oil. The previous owner changed the oil in June...not sure how much he topped it up if at all between then and August which is when I bought it.Happy ending