L2201DT overheating

MrChuck

New member

Equipment
L2201DT
Nov 25, 2010
28
1
0
Heathcote, VIC, Australia
Hi all,
Our L2201 has started doing a new thing this slashing season, which is boiling over after less than an hour's use. I have limited tools up here but following other threads I'll be doing this today:

--check screen and radiator for external clogging with debris
--flush the radiator and water jacket
--replace coolant
--check condition of hoses and fan belt. Replace fan belt maybe, it's tired
--the thermostat has failed and is already out. Didn't help.

What I can't do is pressure test the system. How can I work out if the radiator cap is still at the right pressure and the water pump is working properly without specialised gear? Is there some other area I should be looking at?

This is obviously a serious problem and I can't really use the tractor for anything until it's sorted out. We're a long way out of town so I can't take it anywhere else.

The grass is high but no higher than it's been for the last five years, and we haven't had this problem before. I oiled the slasher deck about a month ago.

Mr Chuck
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
73
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
The first thing I see that I would do is replace the thermostat. The water can't stay in the radiator long enough to cool properly without one.
Unless you are using extended life coolant it needs to be changed every 2 yrs. It looses it's ability to dissipate heat.

If you have these 2 things done in most cases the reason it will heat up is caused by the radiator be plugged up with trash. It sounds like you were planning to work on it today. Keep us posted on how it's going.
 

MrChuck

New member

Equipment
L2201DT
Nov 25, 2010
28
1
0
Heathcote, VIC, Australia
Well here's an interesting thing already. I checked the guide which Vic posted last year and the coolant is stated to be 6.6l of clean water--which is what was in it. However lots of other posts refer to using coolant and I've been down to the hardware outlet and got some Xerex HOAT. It in turn refers to another type of coolant which is OAT and apparently some engines don't like one or the other.

Does anyone know whether this matters and if it's going to be OK to use this coolant in my motor. We don't have a freezing problem here in Australia (except for about 1% in the mountain country) but we sure do get high temperatures in summer--40 C and up if it's bad. However it's not hot right now and ambient is around 20C or under 70 in the old money.
 

South 40

Active member

Equipment
L1500DT, 750 Ford backhoe, 49 D4 Cat Repowered with 6.9L Diesel
Nov 12, 2012
168
52
28
Bloomsdale, Mo. USA
Hey MrChuck,

I always run regular antifreeze and water just like I do in the cars and trucks, antifreeze will do more than prevent freezing, it also doesn't boil like plain water.

Some say it has to be changed every so often, I only add when needed, or if I do a system flush.

The only time my L1500 overheats is when the screen in front of the radiator gets covered in grass and dust, a quick rinse with the garden hose solves the problem in about 5 mins, but I also raise the hood and wash back through the radiator toward the screen.

On mine the battery sits right in front of the radiator so it doesn't take much dust and debri to collect on the screen for it to start getting hot.

This usually happens when I am cutting in high weeds and or really dry grass and weeds.

As stated above I would put a thermostat back in it, they help to make sure the engine runs at the proper temp.

Best Regards

Paul
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
73
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
From what I just read the HOAT or the OAT is safe to use in all cooling systems. It also said it's a 5 yr coolant which is another plus.

Using coolant as apposed to straight water has several advantages. Using coolant allows the cooling system to dissipate heat much more efficiantly. Another big plus is it will help to prevent corrosion inside the engine.
 

MrChuck

New member

Equipment
L2201DT
Nov 25, 2010
28
1
0
Heathcote, VIC, Australia
The story so far: I've flushed out the system with clean water and added coolant. Kubota don't recommend propylene glycol coolant, but ethylene glycol is OK and that's what I used.

The good news is that it doesn't boil after more use than I tried yesterday. The bad news is that the capacity of the cooling system is supposed to be 6.6 litres but I could only get around 4.5 litres in before it was full. This would seem to indicate that there is a massive amount of sludge somewhere. Since I had the radiator re-cored last year, it can only be in the motor. I wasn't able to get any flush today (it's Sunday and most places within reach are closed) so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow. Will also try to get hold of a replacement thermostat since the consensus seems to be that these are required. I dunno, half the vehicles in Australia have had em taken out. It's traditional...
 

South 40

Active member

Equipment
L1500DT, 750 Ford backhoe, 49 D4 Cat Repowered with 6.9L Diesel
Nov 12, 2012
168
52
28
Bloomsdale, Mo. USA
I wouldn't expect to put in the full 6.6 liters of coolant unless you do a complete rebuild on the engine, there is no way to completely empty all the coolant chambers in the engine without taking it completely apart, all the expansion plugs would have to be removed and all that.

I am not even sure you could completely empty the block if you managed to pressurize it with air.

Addiing to within 2L of total capacity after a radiator drain is not too bad, I would suggest running it with a close eye on the temp guage for awhile and see how it does.

Best regards

Paul
 

MrChuck

New member

Equipment
L2201DT
Nov 25, 2010
28
1
0
Heathcote, VIC, Australia
Thanks for that observation South 40, I don't intend to pop out the expansion plugs so perhaps there's about as much coolant in it now as will fit.

I checked the screen and radiator this morning and they're clear. So the thermostat is the only item left. I'll try KV equipment in Bendigo, who I'm mentioning in case this is of use to other people in Central Victoria. Charlie seems to be able to get hold of just about anything, bit of a wizard in that respect.

I guess I'll take the tractor out for some serious use now and see how I go.

Thanks to all who've taken an interest, yet again. OTT rocks!

Mr Chuck
 

MrChuck

New member

Equipment
L2201DT
Nov 25, 2010
28
1
0
Heathcote, VIC, Australia
Didn't go all that well. After about half an hour I noticed coolant dripping out of the overflow pipe so the tractor is still running very hot. It never used to do this.

Back to plan A which was to flush the cooling system with a commercial product and refill the coolant, along with get a thermostat ordered.

Is there any way to determine if the water pump is working properly, without pulling the whole thing apart?

I'm also going to check the oil levels in the transmission and axles in case they're low.

Any other suggestions most welcome.
 

South 40

Active member

Equipment
L1500DT, 750 Ford backhoe, 49 D4 Cat Repowered with 6.9L Diesel
Nov 12, 2012
168
52
28
Bloomsdale, Mo. USA
Without a thermostat you should be able to take the cap off the radiator while it is running and see the water moving around, if there is no movement then the pump is shot.

Usually when a pump goes bad they will either start leaking or make noises, but not always.

Best Regards

Paul
 

MagKarl

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Aug 2, 2010
663
0
0
Olympia, WA
It might help to drop the coolant level down to a little below the top of the core and then inspect for flow.

Most auto parts stores have a pressure test kit for caps and cooling systems. Check the cap and definately replace it if suspect.
 

South 40

Active member

Equipment
L1500DT, 750 Ford backhoe, 49 D4 Cat Repowered with 6.9L Diesel
Nov 12, 2012
168
52
28
Bloomsdale, Mo. USA
OK at this point I would take the drivebelt off the water pump and check the shaft for excessive play, and if everything feels good then I would go ahead and flush the block, if you can connect a water hose to the input side of the water pump and get water out of the return on the engine then that says no blockage.

Actually with the belt off if you can apply water pressure to the pump the pulley should spin, if so try holding it with your hand and see how easy it is to stop, this could help determine of maybe the impellar has come loose from the shaft.

It may take more time but I really hate replacing parts until I know what is actually broken, and having the radiator cap pressure checked is a good idea.

What gets me is the coolant has to be getting from the block to the radiator in order to boil out the over flow or cap.

As suggested have the cap tested or even replace it, the caps are cheap enough.

Still thinking.

Best Regards

Paul
 

MrChuck

New member

Equipment
L2201DT
Nov 25, 2010
28
1
0
Heathcote, VIC, Australia
After a very depressing conversation with a bloke in Queensland who thought it might be the head gasket, I decided to go back to first principles and check my work.

Just as well I did. Inspection of the radiator and screen a second time showed that I'd been pretty sloppy the first time. While the screen and rad externally looked OK, I found by squinting down into the engine bay that I couldn't see through it. That's right folks, completely clogged with grass bits and dust. I spent another 40 minutes blowing it out, and then ran the tractor successfully for an hour without incident.

The moral of the story is to do what Vic says and pay very close attention to rad and screen. And keep an eye on them.

I'm about to post another thread about changing the oil in the front axle for anyone interested.
 

Stubbyie

New member
Jul 1, 2010
879
7
0
Midcontinent
Install a cheap ($1) cardboard-frame spun fiberglass residential-type HVAC filter ahead of your radiator. Cut or fold to fit.

Keeps out the debris and easily tossed when clogged.

When washing with hose do so from both directions and do not use pressure or risk bending fins.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member

Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Nov 16, 2012
2,460
32
48
Southern OH
Don't tya just love a frustrating event that actually turns into an easy fix!

It's almost as good as .
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the one time you actually won an argument with the wife:D