L175 Electrics

[buffumjr]

I bought a L175. Great shape mechanically, , but a few electrical gremlins.

I need to replace the fuse box assembly. The fuses are not available. I am going to machine something out of plastic, that takes the Euro plug in fuses found in cars, today. I need to know the amperage values. I have the (ab)users manual, but it doesn't cover the fuse box. Any help appreciated.

 

[Jim L.]

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4674

This thread has diagram and more.

So I am curious. What is the advantage to you to make the part vs buying an updated and tested replacement?

 

[D2Cat]

Buffumjr, welcome to the forum, but Jim has an excellent suggestion. Something like this would be pretty easy. Didn't the L175 have a plastic cover over the fuse holder on the dash?

https://www.amazon.com/Seamander-Bl...ocphy=9023860&hvtargid=pla-650364726435&psc=1

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I this he means he's going to make a block that fits the dash to put a newer style fuses panel in it.

The circuits are 1 10amp and 2 5amp fuses.
Center of this diagram:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3542&d=1306467235

 

[Jim L.]

No criticism implied, maybe OP has a new milling machine to try out.

To me it looks that a bus type block is not needed, but a through and through type with maybe four positions. The 10A has two wires at the left, and four at the right. The left can hold the two wires with two crimp connectors OK.

But the right needs a terminal strip with shorting clips to go from four to one. If space is an issue, then a post type stud could be used. It would be better to be able to separate the four wires for troubleshooting.

Wanting to know more so as to give a good answer.

 

[buffumjr]

I'm refurbing a Bridgeport knee mill. The quill had become stuck in the housing, so I'm (horrors!) sanding the housing so the quill fits snugly. A very slow process. Dykem and 100 grit on a drum, followed by 440 when done. Once that is done, I can work this, and other projects.

Thanks for the links. I may yet just buy the fuse holder, if I don't have to butcher the dash panel to install it.

 

[Talenel]

If it were me I'd do three through panel washdown push breakers.

 

[buffumjr]

Looking at the fuse block offerings, they all have one unfortunate thing in common. The connectors are on the same side as the fuses. This would expose them to the weather.

By buying Ebay item number 303064758130*, I can use the existing fuse block. I do need to drill a 1/8 hole in each, and use the existing screw to attach it. I then need to machine a rim extension for the block out of Delrin, and attach it to the lid with 25 year roof caulk. This will mean I have to make a new brass screw for the lid to accommodate the setback. All stuff any competent hobby machinist can do.

The alternative is to create or find a weatherproof box that will protect the new fuse box and wiring from the weather. Also do-able. The box can be attached by simple sheet metal screws, but the wiring change would be work.

A third alternative would be to use item 303064758130, use tube type fuses, and make or find that metal box. The third alternative sounds like the least work.

I love kludging things together.


* I can't post links, yet. Just put that number in the Ebay search bar, and it will show you the item.

 

[buffumjr]

Found thread t=18102. Quebota. 2015. Yet another good idea.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Found thread t=18102. Quebota. 2015. Yet another good idea.

You really need to copy the thread link and post that, as what you gave doesn't do a lot for anyone.

Like this: http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18102