I have a zd21 with manual clutch. I circled and green the part that I'm wondering about. Apparently my PTO lever rod is sticking. I can engage it underneath the mower bye camping on that lever rod. So I presumed that I need to take it out and clean it. The machine has been sitting up for 2 or 3 years and I'm just bought it. Anyway my question is are basically a statement. I do not understand how that is a PTO lever. I do not see any way that forks or whatever would hook up to that. It looks like a smooth ride all the way through going by the diagram. Is anyone know if this has got a notch or something similar like that. Or even spine gear, but I doubt that. Thanks in advance
Kubota zd21 pro clutch lever
- Thread starter dazedeno
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I have a zd21 with manual clutch. I circled and green the part that I'm wondering about. Apparently my PTO lever rod is sticking. I can engage it underneath the mower bye camping on that lever rod. So I presumed that I need to take it out and clean it. The machine has been sitting up for 2 or 3 years and I'm just bought it. Anyway my question is are basically a statement. I do not understand how that is a PTO lever. I do not see any way that forks or whatever would hook up to that. It looks like a smooth ride all the way through going by the diagram. Is anyone know if this has got a notch or something similar like that. Or even spine gear, but I doubt that. Thanks in advance
Captain13
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Kubota ZD21N-EC Workshop Manual (Page 150 of 253) | ManualsLib
www.manualslib.com
Look at Section 2-M11, Page 150 and it will explain how the PTO engages. There is a post on this site where one user removed the valve and cleaned it and that solved his PTO engage problem.
Hope this helps.
Also, do a Youtube search on Kubota PTO. There’s a video of a guy that had to bend the rod the lever rotates on. He had to bend it down slightly or he had a problem engaging or keeping the PTO engaged.
Follow your plan and clean the rod bushing first and go from there.
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# 010 has a hole in it.
There is a hole in the case bore where the #010 lever fits
when the 010 "valve" is rotated it opens up the passage so that oil can flow from the pump through the valve and then through the opposite side of the case, to the hydraulic pto clutch. Similar to an automotive style automatic transmission.
There is a hole in the case bore where the #010 lever fits
when the 010 "valve" is rotated it opens up the passage so that oil can flow from the pump through the valve and then through the opposite side of the case, to the hydraulic pto clutch. Similar to an automotive style automatic transmission.
So if I'm understanding this correctly, part 010 AKA PTO clutch valve is not just a rod that has a smaller section on the Right end. If you're looking at a parts list manual. So it sounds like it must have some kind of whole that the fluid passes through in what I'm calling the rod or maybe a flat spot and it's not completely smooth and circular like a pipe or a solid rod. So I should be able to remove the circular lock ring on the right side and pull it straight out. Clean it and then push it back in. Other than the terms/words that I used does that correct. You have helped out a lot already and I thank you
Kubota ZD21N-EC Workshop Manual (Page 150 of 253) | ManualsLib
Look at Section 2-M11, Page 150 and it will explain how the PTO engages. There is a post on this site where one user removed the valve and cleaned it and that solved his PTO engage problem.
Hope this helps.
Also, do a Youtube search on Kubota PTO. There’s a video of a guy that had to bend the rod the lever rotates on. He had to bend it down slightly or he had a problem engaging or keeping the PTO engaged.
Follow your plan and clean the rod bushing first and go from there.
That was my plan was to pull it out if it did not fall apart on me when I did so. That's why I was asking question first
It sounds like that PTO lever AKA rod must have a call going through it to let the flood by or maybe it's slotted. Because the PTO clutch valve lever / rod only rotates. So if I pull off that circular snap ring, I would be able to pull that valve out and clean it. Then maybe use a gun cleaner to clean the inner bushings. Something like that. Then I would be able to put it back in without taking the transmission apart.?? Also thank you for the workshop manual that I was able to download. I found others but not that I could download for free. Thank you
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Russell King
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Not that I have any experience with this part removal but I would be worried that items #20, 40 and 50 would come off the shaft as I pulled it out.
I think I would use some smaller diameter rod (like the ones used to clean guns mentioned above) to push the shaft #10 out. I don’t know how you would get those items out of the case if they do fall off onto the smaller rod but I think I would have a string on the small rod and try to loop it around the inside and then the outside of the small parts to pull them up to and out of the holes.
It may not really be a problem if those parts did fall into the bottom of the transmission but I would worry that they would get caught up in the gear teeth (if there is any gears inside the case.
I think I would use some smaller diameter rod (like the ones used to clean guns mentioned above) to push the shaft #10 out. I don’t know how you would get those items out of the case if they do fall off onto the smaller rod but I think I would have a string on the small rod and try to loop it around the inside and then the outside of the small parts to pull them up to and out of the holes.
It may not really be a problem if those parts did fall into the bottom of the transmission but I would worry that they would get caught up in the gear teeth (if there is any gears inside the case.
just pull the ring off the end, then pull the valve out. Simple as that. There's some o-rings on the valve that sit in a groove, they will stay on the valve.
I usually pull them out, buff them, and then reinstall with Super UDT on the valve. This generally frees them up. Sometimes they can be freed by using penetrant on the end of the valve (the snap ring end, opposite the engagement lever).
I usually pull them out, buff them, and then reinstall with Super UDT on the valve. This generally frees them up. Sometimes they can be freed by using penetrant on the end of the valve (the snap ring end, opposite the engagement lever).