B219 plans, (I have) show that the bottom is 35" to the outside. 30" to the inside of the towers.
It seems I misspoke, as another member has specified the distance on tower/arm width on a b219 loader to be 30" and 35" inside and outside respectively
Thanks I've seen your build on here and I'm pretty sure on YouTube as well, I may have some questions down the line but my measurements are likely a little varied from both the actual b219 loaderas well as the 5100 I'm using tidbits from others builds and adapting them to my build as I go and also learning a ton from other members on here as well as a lot of what not to do from my own mistakes others are graciously pointing out. It may take me a little bit if trial and error but I'm determined to have this thing whipped, it may not being the most attractive peice of machinery and certainly won't rival most of the members on here builds but as long as it functions when I'm done ill be happy
Thanks!That is one shiny tractor and plow in your pictures, looks like it gets the job done and looks good doin it
I like those large skid shoes, do they work well on unfrozen gravel?
I like it lol nor saying I want to try it but those pictures are pretty impressive.Coming along huh!
If you want more than 60" lift height you would probably move the tower/upright end of the lift cylinders upwards, but in doing so you lose a bit of lift force. The factory hydraulics have a relief valve in the 3pt assembly which i believe is set at something like 1700psi already. What i mean by that is if you were designing towards a lower pressure but end up not having the lift force you wanted, you can always go up on pressure and until you pass the 3pt relief pressure you're not doing anything Kubota didn't design it to handle. So my personal opinion would be get the lift height you want and then tune pressure to suit your desired lift force and you will likely still end up way below 1700psi anyway.
For reference, here is a B219 with cranked pressure picking up WAY more than 500lbs. Possibly 1000lbs.
View attachment 98472 View attachment 98473
There is a pressure gauge mounted on the tractor in these pics and even picking up MUCH more than at factory pressure, it still stayed under 1400psi for most of this lift, until it got up near the very top at which point it took about 1800psi.
I'm not sharing this to recommend you ever try to pick up 1000lbs to 6ft high with a b7100 (this is a silly anecdotal showoff pic, not something practical or useful) but it just goes to show you that if you have 2" cylinders you're going to run out of rear counterweight to keep the back wheels down, before you run out of 'headroom' to make pressure on the factory hydraulics. If you have 1.5" cylinders then yeah, you probably can't replicate this dumb idea picture on factory hydraulics without taking some risks with your engine driven pump, but can you still lift over 500lbs to full height basically no matter what? Yes. So i would adjust the lift cylinder placement on the uprights to get your desired lift height, and then adjust your loader relief valve to get it to lift whatever you want it to based on your normal/available counterweight.
Well you're using the calculators and doing the actual math so you're probably way ahead of me already. But im thinking that 686/ea or ~1370 total is at the pins right in the crook of the loader arms, so i believe you would take the distance from the upright/tower pin to the pin there at the base end of the lift cylinder in the crook of the loader arm, and the distance from there out to the bucket pin. And whatever proportion those two distances are, is the proportion of 1370 you will get at the bucket pins?! Im getting confused already. Something like, if you cylinders end at 1/2 the distance to the bucket, then half of 1370 is what you will get at the bucket. Or something like that. I should have researched before posting this one!!Based on my calculations 1, 1 inch rod 1.5 inch bore cylinder set at 15 degrees and 1500 psi will lift 686lbs per cylinder, being that im not sure I can get a much of a shallower angle based on my current arm/ tower configuration
That's basically my understanding, I haven't crunched those exact calculations as far as distance from cylinder pin to bucket pin but I've used 2/3 as a rough guess which I think is fairly conservative based off of actual loader weight as well as, distances. But ill have to get some real #'s before final assemblyWell you're using the calculators and doing the actual math so you're probably way ahead of me already. But im thinking that 686/ea or ~1370 total is at the pins right in the crook of the loader arms, so i believe you would take the distance from the upright/tower pin to the pin there at the base end of the lift cylinder in the crook of the loader arm, and the distance from there out to the bucket pin. And whatever proportion those two distances are, is the proportion of 1370 you will get at the bucket pins?! Im getting confused already. Something like, if you cylinders end at 1/2 the distance to the bucket, then half of 1370 is what you will get at the bucket. Or something like that. I should have researched before posting this one!!
Unfortunately I think drilling and tapping the "bushings" is beyond my skillset, also they are going to be recessed in the loader arms to the point that inserting a grease gun will be nearly impossible and that would require an extension of the zerk (not totally impossible but a pain). I would love to have zerks in all moving parts but I think it isn't going to be feasible. The cylinders I'm using do have zerks which is a major bonus. However for the pivot pins I'm likely going to have to resort to "option B" remove and heavily grease them at regular intervals. If this proves to be too much of a pain I will attempt to do what "Torch" did and cross drill and bore a zerk into the pins, but again that is probably out of my wheelhouse. I really do appreciate the advice and have been putting serious thought into how to maintain the pivot points. Is there a particular grease that you reccomend or will any marine/offroad washout resistant type #2 grease suffice?If you have the time, drill & tap (1/4-28 works) for some Zerks so you can grease the thing easily... if that's a bridge too far, pack the joints w/ a nice sticky waterproof EP grease when you put it together.