Yes.if I disconnect the lines going to the hydro cylinders using quick disconnects and leave the levers in the nuetral position I should be able to start and move the tractor correct?
That's kind of the answers I was looking for I have no intention of pulling the levers with nothing hooked up but thanks for confiring my suspensions as to what may happenYes.
Even if you pull a lever, it will 'deadhead' that circuit but your loader relief valve will open. Near idle that may stall the engine, but it definitely isn't going to hurt anything. Now if you deadhead something BEFORE the relief valve and at high revs then yes, possible breakage. But the work ports on the loader valve are protected by its internal relief valve, so nothing bad will happen. And, as long as you don't pull the levers, it will be like those hydraulics aren't even there.
You MAY even be able to leave the loader in place, but lifted, and still attach the plow. The problems would be visibility (unless you took the bucket off, will it be quick attach?) and mostly, steering effort from the weight of BOTH.
Once upon a time, there was a hard headed guy that had more money than sense.
He purchased a $2,000 TIG welder online, and was going to teach himself how to TIG weld. After about 2-3 weeks of very frustrating "lessons" on what not to do, this hard-headed fool went to the local community college, planked down $300 more dollars, and signed up for a TIG class after work. It was the funn'est/best thing he had ever done for his fab skills.
Inside of 4 weeks (of a 16 week course), he went from frustrated and disappointed, to "not too bad for a beginner" and has continued to improve ever since.
Also note while grinding a weld down makes it "look better" you really better off leaving it bulky and just lightly knock of the highest points.I know no-one is giving me a hard time just to give ne a hard time, I'm honestly taking it all in and trying to adjust and improve. That's why I signed up for this forum and adventure
Definately the plan, I only went that far with the grinding to see if I had any bonding at all, gussets will be added wherever feasible/possibleAlso note while grinding a weld down makes it "look better" you really better off leaving it bulky and just lightly knock of the highest points.
I would personally go back and lay another weld slow and hot over the existing on the towers.
Also gussets or reinforcing plates add a ton of strength!
Good to know, my cylinders are ORB boss 6 which is nice and the hoses can be anything but since I already ordered ORB to Jic elbows for the cylinder connections and Jic tees for the hoses ill probably stick to JIC for most hoses with female swivel ends and switch back to npt adapters right at the end for the quick disconnects I would love to have done everything with one fitting type. However since the tractor end is NPT and the cylinder end is ORB (expensive fittings) figured I would throw a 3rd type into the mix to try and keep the guesswork out of tightening. I'm also peicemealing stuff together wherever I found it cheapest i.e. cylinders from rugged made and fittings/hoses from surplus center and quick disconnects from Amazon. Going the budget route doesn't always lend itself to the keeping all the fitting the sameSo with my automotive experience i actually like NPT whereas it seems to be most people’s least favorite. I think it just comes from getting VERY comfortable with how much torque you can get away with on things before bad stuff happens. Using NPT without getting comfortable tightening it sufficiently is prone to leaks, whereas something like an ORB you can basically just make it ‘seat’ with no actual ‘tightening’ and it will probably seal. JIC inherently involves ‘swivel’ action (ie you can tighten it in any rotational position) so it has that going for it over npt as well, but once you ARE using NPT swivel fittings they have equivalent convenience and the advantage of being the cheapest overall option.
Im not pushing NPT, just saying its not as bad as some people think. For example, you rarely need thread sealant of any kind. An npt female ‘hole’ seals on its threads, but if you are sealing a male npt hose end to a female npt ‘fitting’ it actually seals on it’s conical ‘face’, like a flare fitting. Those types of connections do not require thread sealant, ever.
For anyone threading npt hoses directly into cylinder or valve ports, i would recommend they install npt swivel fittings in between instead. They are $2-3 each at Surplus Center and make your life a LOT better when you have to mess with hoses.