John deere 7130 impossible issue please help.

RCW

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I have nothing to add, but have followed your quest with interest.

Much of it is beyond my understanding.

Certainly does sound like a quandary and hoping you can solve it! đź‘Ť
 

Shadow_storm56

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I have nothing to add, but have followed your quest with interest.

Much of it is beyond my understanding.

Certainly does sound like a quandary and hoping you can solve it! đź‘Ť
It's currently charged to 35PSI from It's own pressure it makes. 2 hours it hasn't dropped 1 PSI. It's kinda insane
 

Shadow_storm56

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I believe it's the primary water pump, no heat because theres no flow to the heater core but nothing is plugged. Must be a bad shaft seal that pulls air in when spinning but seals when stopped. Kinda crazy if that tractor has been running with just the thermosyphon effect
 
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Shadow_storm56

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Are these coolant lines anywhere computer controlled?
I know the heater core one isn't as I can use a little pump in line to make flow go to that and get heat. Not sure what's computer controlled on this other than it's weird but pretty cool starting sequence.
 

Shadow_storm56

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That's what the picture was of
I see that the water pump on mine looks like the heater core line is more priority. Just looking at a picture of the pump inside the line for heat is on the side and the regular cooling must push back? So no heater core flow must mean dead pump completely
 

Shadow_storm56

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That's what the picture was of
I looked in with the scope, bumped it and of course it started because it starts to easy but anyways I was able to see the impeller spinning. Can see the port to the input side of the heater line whare it enters the block, it blows right at that port so the impeller must have damage. I saw it spin, who knows if it has any vanes left lol
 

Shadow_storm56

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Looking on YouTube it's common for the veins to crack off or the impeller to crack. Usually after alot more than 4k hours but.... it sure appears to be the case. Impeller still spinning but pieces missing so no flow. Next step is removing the pump to confirm..
 

Shadow_storm56

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Water pump looks like new, removed it and it looks perfect. Nothing is blocked either. I only notice 2 things with one being a tiny tiny amount of side to side play in the pump shaft that I can feel bad is too small to see and the impeller has a very slight wobble. So why it only has enough push to send water to the heater core at high rev idk and even then just barely thus why I added an electric pump to get water flowing to the heater core and make sure it had no issue. Heater core is under the seat so isn't even any higher than the top of the rad really. Mind is blown
 

Daren Todd

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Water pump looks like new, removed it and it looks perfect. Nothing is blocked either. I only notice 2 things with one being a tiny tiny amount of side to side play in the pump shaft that I can feel bad is too small to see and the impeller has a very slight wobble. So why it only has enough push to send water to the heater core at high rev idk and even then just barely thus why I added an electric pump to get water flowing to the heater core and make sure it had no issue. Heater core is under the seat so isn't even any higher than the top of the rad really. Mind is blown
Usually the bearings go out before the veins on those pumps.
 

Shadow_storm56

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Usually the bearings go out before the veins on those pumps.
I saw a few videos of ones cracked and missing veins. Plastic impellers and such but yea usually. I just can't understand why were not pumping enough to get to the heater core with a booster pump. This was also my lastage idea of whare the constant source of air in the system pushed into the system was coming from. I thought maybe a bad shaft seal but it dosen't appear that.. the amount of play is very tiny.

Also when I took the pulley off the pump it was packed underneath with solid packed dust/dirt which was dry so obviously nothing leaking out at all.

So the air being forced into the system is just gunna have to be a thing and try to ignore it because it dosen't change and the engine passes every test of every possible air source I or anyone else could think of..... other than a portal to a fish tank bubbler

I can't run a canadain tire garden sprinkler pump off an inverter to get cab heat any time I need heat though so gotta figure why the main pump can't do that anymore
 

Daren Todd

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When you pulled the water pump, did it have a thin steel plate behind it???

If it's missing, then it can wear out the block and cause the water pump to be week.

Screenshot_20231126_062023_Chrome.jpg
 

BAP

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What year is the tractor and how many hours on it? Do you keep up with the coolant additives to prevent cylinder cavitation? We had a JD 544-C loader that we purchased used, that stopped making heat in the middle of the winter and it turned out to be a cylinder liner had cavitated , letting compression into the coolant system eventually blowing open the radiator. Did an in frame rebuild with a kit from JD, had the head redone, and put another 15,000 hours on it.
 

Shadow_storm56

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What year is the tractor and how many hours on it? Do you keep up with the coolant additives to prevent cylinder cavitation? We had a JD 544-C loader that we purchased used, that stopped making heat in the middle of the winter and it turned out to be a cylinder liner had cavitated , letting compression into the coolant system eventually blowing open the radiator. Did an in frame rebuild with a kit from JD, had the head redone, and put another 15,000 hours on it.
I make sure the coolant is all good and new. Not sure about anti cavitation additives?