Had to have the backyard dug up to replace a failed septic pipe, and now it is a mess. I had previously yorked raked the area and got it quite smooth and planted grass 20 years ago, but there were only small rocks in that material. Now the area looks like they imported rocks to plant in the material, and some of them are quite large. I just don't know where to start. Should I try York raking them out and then till the soil to get the rest of them loose or should I just keep raking until all that is on the surface is gone? Right now, the material is quite damp since it has been raining for the past day. Should I wait till the surface dries out or start in even though it raining on and off for the next few days? They are coming back in about 4 weeks to spread loam onto the top to plant the lawn, however, from experience, I have found that every spring a huge amount of rocks come to the surface that will interfere with the lawn mowing.
Installing a new lawn
- Thread starter DustyRusty
- Start date
bbxlr8
Active member
Equipment
L2501 w/R14s, LA525, BH77, SGC0660, CL 5' BB, CL PHD, WG24 + Ford 1210 60" mmm,
My experience says to rake as much of the sizable ones out of it before they spread it & plant. Raking wet is miserable and you need to find that "just right" where they pop out but don't clump.
However, I am in the middle of this battle doing extended reshaping & grading turning a slope into a side yard & lawn. Unfortunately, I rate my property by the % of rock and don't have much nice topsoil. Most of it made its way down my ridge into the valley bottom where there is actually nice crop land - ugh
The big rocks always sprout back through!
However, I am in the middle of this battle doing extended reshaping & grading turning a slope into a side yard & lawn. Unfortunately, I rate my property by the % of rock and don't have much nice topsoil. Most of it made its way down my ridge into the valley bottom where there is actually nice crop land - ugh
The big rocks always sprout back through!One rock that the excavator pulled out on Monday looked like a giant potato. It looked like it could crush a Volkswagen flat if it were dropped on one. It got tossed down the hill toward the creek for disposal. I asked how many boulders were removed, and the excavator operator guessed over 6 cubic yards.
There’s no easy answer to that question…. depending on the actual condition/composition of your lawn…(how many, how big, how dense, how deep) …are the rocks….and how large the area is… It might be best to walk the property and identify the ones at the surface to dig them up…. and then let the rest get buried with the new loam. BTDT
You aren't too far from me DR. I did that project in our old house a couple of years ago. The 'lawn' was 30 years old and really just a load of weeds.
The first thing was to spray Roundup everywhere to kill everything.
I used the rippers on the box blade, set deep, to dig out as many potatoes as I could. Then I adjusted the rippers so then were only an inch or 2 down and made more passes dragging the bigger rocks to one end where I picked them up and threw them in the bucket.
Then it was a manual job walking the area and throwing the small ones in the bucket. It was amazing how many rocks I pulled out.
I used a reverse tiller to make nice. Spread limestone, fertilizer and seed and then used a drag to cover the seed.
For a hacker I was pretty happy with the results
The first thing was to spray Roundup everywhere to kill everything.
I used the rippers on the box blade, set deep, to dig out as many potatoes as I could. Then I adjusted the rippers so then were only an inch or 2 down and made more passes dragging the bigger rocks to one end where I picked them up and threw them in the bucket.
Then it was a manual job walking the area and throwing the small ones in the bucket. It was amazing how many rocks I pulled out.
I used a reverse tiller to make nice. Spread limestone, fertilizer and seed and then used a drag to cover the seed.
For a hacker I was pretty happy with the results
Go to your local rental yard and rent a rock rake for your quick attach loader. The tines are typically a couple of inches apart, so anything larger then that will scoop right up and you can go dump them wherever.
Something similar to this.
Something similar to this.
It depends on your soil whether you wait until it's dry or not. But somewhat dry is nearly always better, Unless you have high clay or caliche content.... that's another story.
Despite the wet dry issue, the way @ctfjr did it is pretty spot on.
>Level it, with your box blade.
<Get a soil test or talk to the locals who know the soil if you don't already.
>Rip it with a box blade in all directions as deep as you can.
>Pick up rocks.
>Rip it with a box blade in all directions as deep as you can.
>Pick up rocks.
>Rip it with a box blade in all directions as deep as you can.
>Pick up rocks.
>Repeat until no large (3" to 4") rocks are seen. Smaller the better.
You can york rake it if it floats your boat. I never was a fan.
Anyway.
>When there are no more rocks seen, rototill it as deep as you can. Two directions. The more times the better. But don't rototill an un-ripped field full of rocks unless you like tractor abuse, lurch and changing shear bolts.
>Spead fertilizer and etc. as determined by your soil test or local advice. Or just triple 20 is pretty good.
If you have lots of money, and if it's a huge back yard, and you want it perfect:
>Excavate 18 to 24" of your current topsoil and run it through a crusher. Or, export it and import new good topsoil.
If you just want something that looks kind of like grass when mowed:
>Level it smooth.
>Through down some triple 20 and the seed of your choice. hose it with some water a couple CY of topsoil and forget about it.
>Replace mower blades as necessary.
Despite the wet dry issue, the way @ctfjr did it is pretty spot on.
>Level it, with your box blade.
<Get a soil test or talk to the locals who know the soil if you don't already.
>Rip it with a box blade in all directions as deep as you can.
>Pick up rocks.
>Rip it with a box blade in all directions as deep as you can.
>Pick up rocks.
>Rip it with a box blade in all directions as deep as you can.
>Pick up rocks.
>Repeat until no large (3" to 4") rocks are seen. Smaller the better.
You can york rake it if it floats your boat. I never was a fan.
Anyway.
>When there are no more rocks seen, rototill it as deep as you can. Two directions. The more times the better. But don't rototill an un-ripped field full of rocks unless you like tractor abuse, lurch and changing shear bolts.
>Spead fertilizer and etc. as determined by your soil test or local advice. Or just triple 20 is pretty good.
If you have lots of money, and if it's a huge back yard, and you want it perfect:
>Excavate 18 to 24" of your current topsoil and run it through a crusher. Or, export it and import new good topsoil.
If you just want something that looks kind of like grass when mowed:
>Level it smooth.
>Through down some triple 20 and the seed of your choice. hose it with some water a couple CY of topsoil and forget about it.
>Replace mower blades as necessary.
Without irrigation growing grass in CT in the spring starts off great, then summer hits and it usually comes to a screeching halt. I always preferred to wait til late summer/early fall. It will sprout up nice with the cooler days and dew overnight, kinda go dormant for the winter then grow nicely in the following spring, summer.
I don't have the luxury of waiting, but I do have a creek behind the home that I can draft water from if I should need it.
I did similar when I built my house, needed grass for erosion control. I got a 275 tote and pump and visited the local pond often. (Well water).. contractor mix worked quick but not long term. Ended up overseeing over the years with a better mix. The last few years seed about doubled in price, I wonder how it is this season?
Make sure you read the Label carefully when buying grass seed.... especially cheap $ and/or "contractor" seed.
Make sure you are buying PERENNIAL seed. (or a high % of perennial)
annual seed is cheaper but it will die over the winter and you will be re-seeding next spring.
I think most all seed mixtures contain some annual seed as filler..... but you don't want 100%
(unless you just want some quick erosion protection for a short period)
Thanks, John T for that … I agree with you.
I am hosting an aircraft “fly-in/campout” event next month at my ranch air-strip that ordinarily is well-established native prairie grasses.
But there is a shallow “swale” at one end of one of my runways which tends to remain “soft” for a week or more after a rain…and I cannot predict what wx will occur just prior to the fly-in….
….so I’ve brought in 60 tons of soil and spread it across that swale to fill-in that area…. and I want it to be well-established before the first week of April….
… so I’ve distributed 80 lbs of “Pennington’s Contractor Mix”…which is mostly Rye grass (for rapid turf)… It has only a minor amount of perennial grass-seed in it… but I expect to establish native grasses by the early Fall.
First pic is looking SE at 40 tons being distributed and before grading…. 2nd pic is after 60 tons have been raked-in with seed and being watered from one of my wells.
We’re in a long drought here in central Texas and I’ve watered it in for several days now.…but it’s been only 4 days and I’m not observing much activity yet…..
Last edited:
I also see "forage" seed for sale at tractor supply..... I'm sure it's considered weeds but maybe if you keep it cut low.... ?
For my Lawn..... the older I get, the weeds and I have come to an understanding... as long as it's green.... It can stay.
For my Lawn..... the older I get, the weeds and I have come to an understanding... as long as it's green.... It can stay.
As @NorthwoodsLife mentioned and I forgot to, get your soil tested. The CT Agriculture Experimental Station in Hamden did it for me. You may have one closer to you, maybe at UConn?
I provided 3 test hole samples and they came back with suggestions including the type of seed to use.
Ahhh, a freebie from the state
I provided 3 test hole samples and they came back with suggestions including the type of seed to use.
Ahhh, a freebie from the state
In Connecticut I've had good luck with the Kentucky 31 tall fescue... ( UNCOATED )
but the price has gone up to about $110 a 50# bag
coated stuff is cheaper... but your getting less seed.... you are paying for filler.
I forget exactly, but if you read the bag it tells you what % is seed vs filler.
its almost 50/50 if I remember right.... Plus the uncoated seems to germinate quicker... go figure.
but the price has gone up to about $110 a 50# bag
coated stuff is cheaper... but your getting less seed.... you are paying for filler.
I forget exactly, but if you read the bag it tells you what % is seed vs filler.
its almost 50/50 if I remember right.... Plus the uncoated seems to germinate quicker... go figure.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
iirc John T the Ag Station recommended a mix of seed for me. That Tall Fescue was in the mix. He suggested not going with one type only because an issue that affects a single type might wipe out the whole lawn.
The wife suggested that we consider putting down sod instead of seeding it. I did some checking and it is about 68 cents per square foot. Just don't know how much that I will need. 1000 square feet minimum for delivery with a $65 delivery charge for 2 pallets if you order from one supplier, and another is higher priced, but no delivery fee. Just need to figure out how much we will need.