I have a M4500DT. I have been replacing rings etc in the engine, so I havent put the front on yet. Radiator not on yet or power steering etc. Its just the block on the tractor. I decided to compression test it before complete assembly. Also I have connected the injector pump and lines to the injectors to be sure no contamination before putting everything back. I bled the fuel supply to the injector pump and 5 delivery valves are working, but number 1 doesnt work. This is only on battery crank, with a very good battery. I thought I had not lined the pump rail in the speed control fork. It wasnt that. The governor springs are on properly. I have taken the IP off a number of times to try different things. During one crank #1 did work a little bit then stopped again. Number 2 doesnt work sometimes during a crank. I notice that #2 has some bubbles with it sometimes so was wondering if its still air in the IP.? But why are 4 working well and most of the time 5 are, surely the fuel is there? There are 4 shims. I tried taking them off to see the difference(not concerned about timing at the moment). It seemed the delivery valves were weaker pumping, I wouldn't have thought there would be any difference as far as my limited knowledge goes shims are only to do with timing. I have a new fuel pump (after market) it seems to be pumping okay but I also tried a direct gravity feed from the shed roof with a bottle of diesel and a long fuel line. Still the same. I was wondering if I ran the engine starting on 4 pr 5 cylinders then at speed would the #1 delivery valve prime itself or should it be working on battery crank? There was nothing wrong with the pump before I stripped the engine. I bagged it in a plastic bag until the rebuild. The manual says dont mess with the pump. One thing I see I havent done is smear the shims with three bond 1215 or equivalent. I have Hylomar Blue. Its a bit messy and it would be hard to smear a smooth thin coat unless it can be thinned. I will try this next but open to suggestions please?
Injector Pump Delivery valve
- Thread starter Fishfarmer
- Start date
I had first thought of a smart-aleck/joke/remark asking about the condition of the shed roof….….
….. but I know you’re asking a serious question and not likely to be in a humorous mood…
So… if you removed the IP and kept it clean and made no changes to timing-shims and injector system generally…. if it were me… I’d avoid unnecessary “cranking” of a non-running engine for several reasons… (I’ll not list them here)….but I’d not be doing that until it was full of oil and ready to start-and-run the engine.
If the IP has a problem it will still be evident at that time…. and if it Does Not have a problem… once the engine is running at-speed and all possibilities of having pumped-the-bubbles out…. it should run just fine. JMO
….. but I know you’re asking a serious question and not likely to be in a humorous mood…
So… if you removed the IP and kept it clean and made no changes to timing-shims and injector system generally…. if it were me… I’d avoid unnecessary “cranking” of a non-running engine for several reasons… (I’ll not list them here)….but I’d not be doing that until it was full of oil and ready to start-and-run the engine.
If the IP has a problem it will still be evident at that time…. and if it Does Not have a problem… once the engine is running at-speed and all possibilities of having pumped-the-bubbles out…. it should run just fine. JMO
Thanks. Engine is full of oil. When I said the block I meant the whole engine is together without pulley or anything in front of the gear case(front wheels aren't on yet either) just explaining why I cant run it without coolant, although it could run for a very short time. I put asssembly lube on all bearings and cams. It turns over with 60lbs oil pressure so no problem with lubrication I wouldn't think. Shed roof or barn as you may call it is a bit rough, its straight tree poles with corrugated iron roof and three corrugated walls. So it's open to dust. The roof doesn't leak, ha
. I have a sense of humour, so all good. "you should see how rough the tractor is, you would dump it". The fourth wall is half enclosed by a shipping container which is where all my tools are kept. I kept everything covered and all parts in plastic bags. The pump has been sitting in a bag for more than a year. From what I read the plunger may be gummed up so the spring can't return it. If thats the case its suggested I can run some Liqui Moly through it, or as you said it could free up when running. I agree this may also work. Its just more awkward to get the IP off when everything is back together. Inlet manifold has to come off to get the IP off, plus what will be on it above that. I might start it for a few seconds to see if that works. Maybe, maybe not, power steering pump I don't want to run dry I guess.
North Idaho Wolfman
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There is a reason the manual says DON"T mess with the pump.
The average DYI person can not properly set up an injection pump.
It's 100% possible something is wrong with it or plugged up.
You need to send the injection pump in and get it rebuilt.
Find a good local injection shop or use Oregon fuel injection.
The average DYI person can not properly set up an injection pump.
It's 100% possible something is wrong with it or plugged up.
You need to send the injection pump in and get it rebuilt.
Find a good local injection shop or use Oregon fuel injection.
If its plugged up would it free up when running, or unlikely? You said 100% one or the other. I can see if something is wrong with it then $$$ This tractor maybe not worth spending any more on it, count my losses and run it if it works, if it doesnt, well....... there arent many of these in Australia for parts.
Too many words without breaks (paragraphs make reading easier) so I pass most of it, but I did see where you wanted to apply "...three bond 1215" to shims. DON'T apply anything to shims or the timing is changed.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Ok I hear ya.
Yes it is possible that running it can unplug it.
So sure try to fire it up leaving that injector line loose at the Injector.
If you start getting fuel then your probably fine.
And yes again I know what the manual says, but like D2Cat said, but DO NOT put any sealer on the gaskets, it changes the timing.
If your worried about it sealing you can use copper spray seal LIGHTLY.
Yes it is possible that running it can unplug it.
So sure try to fire it up leaving that injector line loose at the Injector.
If you start getting fuel then your probably fine.
And yes again I know what the manual says, but like D2Cat said, but DO NOT put any sealer on the gaskets, it changes the timing.
If your worried about it sealing you can use copper spray seal LIGHTLY.
No worries with not putting sealant on.
I was worried it might affect the micron thickness so didnt do it.
I can only see it stopping oil leaks, which a bit of doesnt bother me.
Is there any point running an additive through it?
Usually these miracle cures dont work and are a waste of money.
North Idaho Wolfman
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I don't use them as most are just snake oil.
I would run clean fuel through it and see how it does.
Will do, I would think it has gummed up from dried diesel rather than something gone wrong.
It was working fine but I stored it away in a plastic bag for nearly two years come to think of it.
Unless a piece of crap went through it from the new fuel pump.
It had cover plugs on it but In hinds sight I should have run fuel in to a bucket before connecting it up.
I put on new clean fuel lines as well.
Plastic bags even thick ones still breathe, some people dont know that, so diesel would have evaporated.
Thanks for your input.
I had something similar after having the injection pump overhauled, it seemed to be just a priming problem. Only #1 and #2 had erratic or no delivery, rest were ok. Unfortunately I can't remember what I did to fix it, but running the engine as suggested elsewhere would probably sort it out.
I thought the same beacuse there seemed to be bubbles come out of number two when I stopped cranking. Its unusual that it does this #1 did pump a tiny bit at one time. Logical thinking would tend to give you the assumption of pressure from the fuel feed pump would prime the lot if 3-6 was spurting.
Another way of reasoning is why #1 and #2 ( especially #1). They are situated RH side of the feed, so perhaps there is gummed up diesel blocking the small amount of pressure the fuel pump provides to the plungers.
Maybe not so strange this has haapened to yours on the same cylinders. M4500DT quirk.
I have a feeling it will clear once running like GeoHorn said. Fingers and toes crossed, cry later.