I took delivery of my MX4800 and was able to log 20 hours or so, but then our Fall and early winter were so wet, I haven't been able to get much done 'til this last week. I am now at 39 hours and no regeneration yet. Based on others' comments, I started expecting it as I approached 30 hours. 95% of the hours has been at PTO speed, so I am hopeful the delayed regen is a sign that I'm working the engine properly.
I'm still waiting........reginity
- Thread starter Dalroo
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yes if your running it at PTO speeds and running it for several hours at a time, then the regen will be extended. 
melvinhatcher
Member
Equipment
L3301HST, LA525FEL, 66" QA BUCKET, L8455CRUISE CONTROL KIT, WR LONG 3RD FUNCITIO
I suppose I am pampering my (baby) motor to much. I got my first Regin. today @ 12.7hrs. I guess I need to put it to work and stop babying it around
Thanks for the notes.
As this is a new engine, I've tried to allow ample time for warm up, and haven't operated any at max RPM, although PTO speed is probably close to 90%. My tractor does not have a reading of DPF filter level, but I've got to think I am getting close.
My typical routine is to start tractor when I am ready to begin work, allow it to sit for a minute or two to allow oil to flow, and then start making my way toward the field I am working at near idle speed, slowly increasing my RPMs as the temp gauge starts to climb. Using this method, by the time I am ready to work, the temp is near the middle of the gauge.
The only thing the manual says about break in is to not operate at full speed for the first 50 hours. Okay, I have owned many new motors over the years, and the philosophy I've always used is to break a motor in using the same conditions you plan to operate it. Not sure how sound this philosophy is, but it has worked well for me on vehicles (diesel and gas), motorcycles, ATVs, etc. Since most of my work will be at PTO speed, that is where most of the hours have been spent.
Again, not sure if this is right, but based on the extended time to Regen, I think I am at least doing that part right. I am also religious in maintenance, so will be doing the 50 hour service soon, and hope my oil is clean and free of metal.
As this is a new engine, I've tried to allow ample time for warm up, and haven't operated any at max RPM, although PTO speed is probably close to 90%. My tractor does not have a reading of DPF filter level, but I've got to think I am getting close.
My typical routine is to start tractor when I am ready to begin work, allow it to sit for a minute or two to allow oil to flow, and then start making my way toward the field I am working at near idle speed, slowly increasing my RPMs as the temp gauge starts to climb. Using this method, by the time I am ready to work, the temp is near the middle of the gauge.
The only thing the manual says about break in is to not operate at full speed for the first 50 hours. Okay, I have owned many new motors over the years, and the philosophy I've always used is to break a motor in using the same conditions you plan to operate it. Not sure how sound this philosophy is, but it has worked well for me on vehicles (diesel and gas), motorcycles, ATVs, etc. Since most of my work will be at PTO speed, that is where most of the hours have been spent.
Again, not sure if this is right, but based on the extended time to Regen, I think I am at least doing that part right. I am also religious in maintenance, so will be doing the 50 hour service soon, and hope my oil is clean and free of metal.
tcrote5516
New member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, 50" Front Blower, Heated Cab, 6' blade, 3pt carry all, 3pt hitch
So long as you don't let the engine lug down while near idle that's fine. Lugging is never good, lugging at a cold idle is very bad. I do the same as you but bump the idle up a few hundred rpm while I am cruising it to wherever I need to be during the warmup.
44.6 hours and still waiting.
Box bladed drive, then, while box blade hooked, took the opportunity to clean out cattle pens. Hooked up disc to move into barn, but thought I would take a second pass in a small area where I did not get enough turned when I plowed a few weeks ago. And then, since I still had a bit of daylight, I mowed about 1/2 acre where I may put new food plot. Then hooked box blade back up for next project.
And off topic, but as I've said before, the quick hitch is a huge timesaver. I switched implements 4 times yesterday and the longest time spent was maybe 5 minutes, and that is the shredder cuz it requires leaving seat to connect to PTO.
Box bladed drive, then, while box blade hooked, took the opportunity to clean out cattle pens. Hooked up disc to move into barn, but thought I would take a second pass in a small area where I did not get enough turned when I plowed a few weeks ago. And then, since I still had a bit of daylight, I mowed about 1/2 acre where I may put new food plot. Then hooked box blade back up for next project.
And off topic, but as I've said before, the quick hitch is a huge timesaver. I switched implements 4 times yesterday and the longest time spent was maybe 5 minutes, and that is the shredder cuz it requires leaving seat to connect to PTO.
I read about this "regen" and "computer fail" in threads and it makes me glad I own an old school tractor with none of that crap. At least I can break out a set of wrenches and fix what is ailing it. I feel for you guys - just say'n.
I spent a year working in the bay next to a highly skilled ford diesel tech. Asked about break in and longevity. Said drive it like you stole it and leave the tuner kit in the box.
The variable turbos coke up if you dont work them, also they develop particulate filter and egr problems from soot buildup.
Diesel engines need to work hard. Just be gentle on warmup.
The variable turbos coke up if you dont work them, also they develop particulate filter and egr problems from soot buildup.
Diesel engines need to work hard. Just be gentle on warmup.
The recommended rpm for warm up is a bit higher than idle, for mine 1350 rpm, which is roughly half of WOT. I have noticed that however one warms it up, the dpf gains from 2 to 4% of its total until the temp gauge reaches its operating temp, on mine about halfway up. Then depending on how it is worked, it will go on increasing or will decrease if it is worked hard. Hard is less hard than the dogma might have you think. For example today mine read 95% when I started it, and all I had for it to do was carry two full bucket loads of manure out to the mulch heap out in the back pasture. While I loaded the bucket with the carts from the barn, I set the rpm at 2200 in case it wanted to regenerate when I wasn't looking. However by the time I made the 2 trips and took one lap around the back pasture at 2600 rpm to check the fence it read 92% , maybe because it was warm out today, 60F. Mine is past the 50 hrs, so 2600 rpm is fine.
No doubt the re-gen takes a new learning curve.I have found run the engine at least 1400 rpms a must,pull it.Warm it up and then load it.
load it.The wait is over - started morning finishing some work with blade and then dropped box blade to hook up the shredder. As soon as I started tractor after connecting PTO, the RPM+ and Regen lights were illuminated.
Started mowing within a few minutes at PTO speed, and RPM+ light went off, and regen light went out about 15 or so minutes later. Non-event really. Other than lights, only indication was a bit different odor from exhaust.
Started Regen at 45.0 and finished at 45.2.
Started mowing within a few minutes at PTO speed, and RPM+ light went off, and regen light went out about 15 or so minutes later. Non-event really. Other than lights, only indication was a bit different odor from exhaust.
Started Regen at 45.0 and finished at 45.2.
When I deliver a DPF system tractor is usually tell the customer very little warm up time and try not to idle for long periods. And then run it as hard as you can!
Sounds like you try to put under a good load most of the time which heats up the engine and helps lengthen the time frames between regens.
Pat
Sounds like you try to put under a good load most of the time which heats up the engine and helps lengthen the time frames between regens.
Pat
Just updating an old thread that I started. Had only the second regen this weekend while doing some loader work. I was wearing ear plugs, but sensed a change in the motor and then the regen light. Started at 90.3 to 90.4. Less than 10 minutes from start to finish.
Pretty consistent. - first was at 45 and second at 90.
Pretty consistent. - first was at 45 and second at 90.