Hydraulic Ripper / Scarifier on Box Blade

NHSleddog

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It is made for metal cutting. Metal cutting cold saws spin slower than a normal saw (around 1500 RPM)
It has a normal looking carbide blade (9").

The main reason was for hand held clean cuts. I have a few grinders/cut off wheels, as well as a plasma cutter. The saw leaves a clean sharp cold finish. I also have an aluminum blade for it.

After the party tomorrow, I'll get back on the box project.
 
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RCW

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It is made for metal cutting. Metal cutting cold saws spin slower than a normal saw (around 1500 RPM)
It has a normal looking carbide blade (9").

The main reason was for hand held clean cuts. I have a few grinders/cut off wheels, as well as a plasma cutter. The saw leaves a clean sharp cold finish. I also have an aluminum blade for it.

After the party tomorrow, I'll get back on the box project.
Thanks for the explanation. Appreciate it.

Had no idea such a thing existed.....kinda neat.
 

B737

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I foolishly assumed that was a wood saw with metal blade, that is a really cool tool. was wondering why you werent using your plasma cutter
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S
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I've used an 'offshore' 4by6 metal badsaw for 25 years,has always cut straight and clean, Any 'grinder/wheel unit will remove a LOT of material( those 1/8" cuts add up to an inch pretty fast !).I wear out 2-3 blades a yearcause it's a LOT of steel I 'process'...

for lifting the shanks, I saw a guy weld square tubes to the frame, round tubes to the 'lifting bar', short/squat cylinder underneath..so straight vertical action,no binding either.
 
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NHSleddog

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I've used an 'offshore' 4by6 metal badsaw for 25 years,has always cut straight and clean, Any 'grinder/wheel unit will remove a LOT of material( those 1/8" cuts add up to an inch pretty fast !).I wear out 2-3 blades a yearcause it's a LOT of steel I 'process'...

for lifting the shanks, I saw a guy weld square tubes to the frame, round tubes to the 'lifting bar', short/squat cylinder underneath..so straight vertical action,no binding either.
I have a 4x6 band saw that sits in the corner and has for years. For me it is just too slow and messy. These new cold saws are a whole new game. If you get a chance, give one a try.
 

NHSleddog

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I finished up the project. I do believe it will do the trick. It has the full motion up/down it started with and I can do it from the seat.

I have not used it yet, so the jury is still out, however I think it will hold up great. My only concern is hooking into a big rock, it will actually pull down on the shank with some good force. The 1" shaft may be small in that event, if so it will be an easy upgrade if needed.

I may replace the 5/8" bolts in shank 2 and 4 with pullable pins so I can easily remove them. Sometimes 3 shanks work better than 5 up here.

I used primarily 3"x3/8" Angle, 4" Channel and 3" Channel.

The ultimate box blade Top/Tilt and Power Scarifer.

box-10.jpg


box-11.jpg


box-12.jpg


My son wanted it known that all the sweet dime stacks were his, everything else was my doing - lol.
 
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Gallows

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That looks heavy duty. Can you use it soon or are you in the snow belt?
 

bird dogger

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NHS, the only wrong with it that I can see is that it's not sitting in my line up of attachments! 😂
That turned out fantastic!! 👍👍👍👍👍
 
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Lil Foot

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Turned out great! Maybe someday we can see a video of it in action?
 

Yooper

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Awesome build! I like the way you triangulated the cylinder.

Curious about your saw. Does it throw the metal chips around much?
 

NHSleddog

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Awesome build! I like the way you triangulated the cylinder.

Curious about your saw. Does it throw the metal chips around much?
It actually contains the chips very well. It does send some straight up ahead of the cut though.

The reason it does so well with chips, probably causes the main complaint I have with the unit; it is impossible to see where the blade engages with the material (fully shrouded/covered). Plunge cuts are pretty much a no-go.

So it does take some getting used to.

All-in-all though, I am impressed with it. Nice clean cold cuts. I am still amazed at cutting channel like 2x4s.

Portability can't be beat, I took it to a buddies house to cut up a bunch of aluminum ballaster stock he is using on some custom stairs. 120 cuts and slices all like butter.

It is a 9" blade (the main reason for choosing this brand/model). It will cut 3" in one go.
 
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NHSleddog

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Well I will say this, you guys are one observant bunch.

PM questions answered,

Yes, that is a standard poodle on the couch, yes, I keep a couch in the shop for the dogs. Not the safest, but I also keep an extinguisher on the wall behind it.

Yes, I did remove a lot of strength to the back of the box. Try as I might I could not see the braces I added to add some back in any of the pictures. Here is the brace,

bracket.jpg


And the box works GREAT!
 
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Old_Paint

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LX2610HSDSU, LA535 FEL w/54" bucket, LandPride BB1248, Woodland Mills WC-68
Dec 5, 2020
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Took me a minute to figure out the cut marks around the ripper mount holes, and realized the bosses for the level pins weren't there any more. Was wondering why a modification would have been necessary there. Then the light same on. I think the fact you cut them with a torch instead of a cut-off wheel on a grinder is what threw me off.

I think you'll appreciate the weight you added too. The BB1248 I have is just a little on the light side for just blading. Then when I lower the rippers, I normally find an economy sized root that makes me glad I have a seat belt. It's usually a nasty jolt. What I like about what you did is you didn't really affect the mechanical strength of what the rippers torque against.

Instead of holes like your ripper tines have, though, mine have notches in the front edges of the bars, and some kind of silly spring clip that has hit me in the face more than once when it comes flying out of the pliers it takes to get them out. It's really just a spacer to keep the notch on the tine engaged in the box beam. There's an art to getting them out, especially if using water pump pliers (some call's 'em, Chaneloks, I call's 'em water pump plier, mmm-hmm). As much as I hate the hairpin style keepers in pins, it would have been a lot better than the spring clips on my rippers. I much prefer lynch pins, but they're not always compatible or practical. I'd have to fill the notches on my rippers and then drill a hole in the top for a pin. My shop capabilities are a little more limited than yours, and this would probably take me a while longer to do. What I like most about this change, though is the fact that the ripper depth isn't in fixed increments. You can adjust it like you want, not to mention, on the fly, and peel a root off a piece at a time.

Well done indeed.
 
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B737

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That EA box is seriously robust NHS. My LP BB1260 works well, but it doesnt look as stout as that EA. I think that will be my next BB when this LP is "wore out".

 
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