Hydraulic Oil Filter STUCK

Shipwreck

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Dec 17, 2019
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I was really hoping to get a complete maintenance job done on my L3010 without needing help. So much for that. I’m ready to change the hydraulic and trans fluid and filters. I went through to loosen the plugs and filters to avoid getting myself in the middle of the job and find I can’t loosen something. Well, I’m there. The hydraulic oil filter on left side won’t budge. The tractor is not lifted in any way so granted I don’t have a lot of room. I’m using that traditional metal band type wrench. The oil filter does have the metal groves on the ring that touches the tractor. I’m hesitant to use a hammer and a screwdriver to tap that ring to break it loose without getting some advise. Should I get a channel lock type wrench? Should I try some penetrating oil to break it loose? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

whitetiger

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That is the HST filter and it is a pressure filter rather than a suction filter so it is much tighter. You can use large channel lock pliers or you can use a hammer and punch it the grooves to loosen it. The grooves are for a spanner that is used to install the filter, but I have never found a heavy-duty one that fits for sale.

On SVL's, I often use an air hammer in the grooves to loosen the filter.
 

SidecarFlip

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That is the HST filter and it is a pressure filter rather than a suction filter so it is much tighter. You can use large channel lock pliers or you can use a hammer and punch it the grooves to loosen it. The grooves are for a spanner that is used to install the filter, but I have never found a heavy-duty one that fits for sale.

On SVL's, I often use an air hammer in the grooves to loosen the filter.
MSC and McMaster Carr have them.
 

eiresurg

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Apr 30, 2019
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Pau7220

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Oil pan 4

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I have had to hammer a pry bar through one and put a breaker bar on it. Someone went and put that filter on with full retard strength.
That's after I already crushed it with a strap wrench, chewed it up with big channel locks and really crushed and chewed it up with vise grip chain pliers.
 
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Captain Itch

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L3301 HST 66in. Tomahawk bucket ,EA grapple ..
I just did the 50 hour service on my l3301 HST .. The gray original filters were very tight we took a regular metal oil filter wrench to it and it would not budge.So I am a leather worker and took a 1 1/2 inch piece of leather and put it between the filter and strap, the filter spun right off.. Hope this helps someone ..
 

wgator

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I've had the vise grip locking chain style wrench for a bunch of years. My HST filter is the first one I've ever had to use it on and the filter came right off. CLICK HERE FOR THE IRWIN BRAND.
 

whitetiger

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MSC and McMaster Carr have them.
They only have the common HOOK spanners, not FILTER spanners. We have a hook spanner, put much pressure on it and the side of the filer collapses. Spanner then flies off and you have to remove the filter with large channel locks. Far better off to buy a pair of 480 pliers and have something that works.
 

tbk5

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L3710, L3010, ZD1211, RTV900xt, GR2100, lots of 3pt equipment
Sep 24, 2013
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Here is what is left of my filter.
dead filter.jpg

It was the HST filter from an L3710. I recently purchased this tractor. I don't think it was ever changed. I tried everything-strap filter wrench, three point filter cap, chisel and hammer, chain wrench, vise grip filter wrench, pipe pliers, pipe wrench and drill a hole through to turn with a screwdriver. Nada. The case would spin on the mounting ring. I finally used a saws all to remove the outer case, then lots of hammer and chisel. When it broke free, it spun off quickly. But it took a day of convincing....
 
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mikester

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First choice is a metal cup socket filter wrench

I say avoid the plastic cups because they tend to deform and slip making them useless on stuck filters.

Second choice is these jaw pliers

I have an offset pair of these as well

If you can, buy them now they are on sale for $2 and $4, you won't regret buying them

When all else fails and there's space I have a chain vice-grip that works.
 

tbk5

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I tried them all. The filter looked like it was stepped on by Godzilla but would not budge. The case just spun on the mount. Mount would not budge. It left like thanksgiving--all day to cook (get old filter off), dinner eaten in a flash (put new filter on.)
 

MoCo

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You can always tell if someone has not changed the HST filter if it still has the spray paint color of the frame, which explains why it's next to impossible to remove. The original filter is hard to remove because it has been painted to the housing. Kubota did not overtighten it -- they essentially glued it on with spray paint. Then to add insult to injury, at the 50-hour filter change, the hydraulic fluid will puke about 10 quarts or liters by the time your oily hands can screw on a new HST filter. The only consolation for this thoughtless engineering is that the next time your HST filter will remove with no more effort than the engine oil filter.
 
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tbk5

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L3710, L3010, ZD1211, RTV900xt, GR2100, lots of 3pt equipment
Sep 24, 2013
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That is my case--filter had a nice coat of Kubota gray paint over the yellow filter cannister. I worry that the filter was never changed in 800 hours. But, the oil was clean as was the strainer so I have my fingers crossed. The tractor overall is very clean and runs well.
 

whitetiger

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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
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Kansas City, KS
You can always tell if someone has not changed the HST filter if it still has the spray paint color of the frame, which explains why it's next to impossible to remove. The original filter is hard to remove because it has been painted to the housing. Kubota did not overtighten it -- they essentially glued it on with spray paint. Then to add insult to injury, at the 50-hour filter change, the hydraulic fluid will puke about 10 quarts or liters by the time your oily hands can screw on a new HST filter. The only consolation for this thoughtless engineering is that the next time your HST filter will remove with no more effort than the engine oil filter.
The paint makes no difference in how hard the filer is to remove. It is a high-pressure filter that is sealed with a small ring. When it is tightened, the filter housing and filter head contact metal to metal.
There is a torque for installing the filter that is used during assembly.
Mark your installed filter's position, unscrew it, and remove the o-ring. Now reinstall it and see where it stops.
 

sheepfarmer

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I will always be grateful to the Kubota tech who, when I was enthusiastically going through maintenance section on my new L3560, and mentioned changing the oil and filters myself, said very politely while looking at me (picture 135 lb little old lady, zip zero no experience with the new tractors having traded in a Ford 8N) "The filters on these new tractors can be pretty hard to get off." Glad I listened! I hate getting myself into predicaments where I have neither the right tools nor the strength to get something done.
 

lugbolt

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many moons ago I was invited to the assembly factory where they assemble (build) the Grand L's. L2900's/3300's at the time. L3010 was it's successor, which was still in prototype phase when I was there. Mind you this was in roughly 1996 or 1997. Japan. They don't tighten them that tight. The machine (at that time) had a specified torque and was calibrated daily. Japanese don't mess around, they like stuff to be RIGHT. Although, they DO make a mistake once in a while--just not often. The processes of assembly are completely different now and I cant' speak for the newer stuff.

The filter which is heavily built to withstand the charge pressure that it is under when the engine is running and clutch is out, is an aluminum base with an o-ring on it. The filter/base assembly is screwed directly to the case which is cast iron. Anytime you have a ferrous metal attached to a non-ferrous metal, they will stick together and that's exactly what happens in the case of this filter (HST filter). It sticks. The design of the filter + ferrous to nonferrous seizure makes them stick together. I always used an air hammer with a chisel tip that was well-worn. Just a couple hits and it was loose, every time. You're throwing the filter out anyway so don't worry about damaging the filter. Just don't beat up the transmission too badly and you'll be fine. They bust loose quickly this way, once loose you just reach under there and unscrew it, and you'll lose maybe a half to 3/4 quart of fluid.

The hydraulic filters are suction filters, which are fed by gravity. Those filters are usually the ones that will lose a bunch of fluid, but I can't recall any hst filters that exhibited the same fluid loss. Most of the time a few oz to a quart at the most.

when you take it off make sure the threaded adapter doesn't come out with the filter. Only had it happen once in 30 years that I can remember. Not a big deal, just watch for it and if it does, unscrew it from the filter and screw it back into the transmission slotted side out. Lastly, because of the design, using a flat base with an o-ring, it will leak if there is any dirt or debris on the transmission where the o-ring and base seat. Clean around the area very well. I had to make a second run to a customer's house 4 hours (one way) because another tech didn't clean the area and a blade of straw was jammed between the hst filter and transmission causing a leak. L3010HST as I recall.
 

nwjones18

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L4701 HST, RCR1872 Rotary Cutter, RTA1266 Tiller and Grapple
Jan 21, 2021
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Warner Robins, GA
many moons ago I was invited to the assembly factory where they assemble (build) the Grand L's. L2900's/3300's at the time. L3010 was it's successor, which was still in prototype phase when I was there. Mind you this was in roughly 1996 or 1997. Japan. They don't tighten them that tight. The machine (at that time) had a specified torque and was calibrated daily. Japanese don't mess around, they like stuff to be RIGHT. Although, they DO make a mistake once in a while--just not often. The processes of assembly are completely different now and I cant' speak for the newer stuff.

The filter which is heavily built to withstand the charge pressure that it is under when the engine is running and clutch is out, is an aluminum base with an o-ring on it. The filter/base assembly is screwed directly to the case which is cast iron. Anytime you have a ferrous metal attached to a non-ferrous metal, they will stick together and that's exactly what happens in the case of this filter (HST filter). It sticks. The design of the filter + ferrous to nonferrous seizure makes them stick together. I always used an air hammer with a chisel tip that was well-worn. Just a couple hits and it was loose, every time. You're throwing the filter out anyway so don't worry about damaging the filter. Just don't beat up the transmission too badly and you'll be fine. They bust loose quickly this way, once loose you just reach under there and unscrew it, and you'll lose maybe a half to 3/4 quart of fluid.

The hydraulic filters are suction filters, which are fed by gravity. Those filters are usually the ones that will lose a bunch of fluid, but I can't recall any hst filters that exhibited the same fluid loss. Most of the time a few oz to a quart at the most.

when you take it off make sure the threaded adapter doesn't come out with the filter. Only had it happen once in 30 years that I can remember. Not a big deal, just watch for it and if it does, unscrew it from the filter and screw it back into the transmission slotted side out. Lastly, because of the design, using a flat base with an o-ring, it will leak if there is any dirt or debris on the transmission where the o-ring and base seat. Clean around the area very well. I had to make a second run to a customer's house 4 hours (one way) because another tech didn't clean the area and a blade of straw was jammed between the hst filter and transmission causing a leak. L3010HST as I recall.
Air hammer is a good idea I hadn't thought of..