Hydraulic adjustment knob removal

Jonny4523

Member

Equipment
L4310 HST
Nov 10, 2022
30
2
8
Lafayette, IN
Can anyone tell him how to get the 3-pt adjustment control knob off? The parts schematic shows being held on with a "spring pin". I assume this is a spring-loaded detent? I don't see a corresponding hole in the knob where I could use a paper clip to push the detent back in.

I need to take the knob off, so that I can get the cover off, so that I can spray the end of the shaft to be able to get this adjustment un-frozen.

IMG_3353.jpg Capture.PNG
 

TheOldHokie

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Can anyone tell him how to get the 3-pt adjustment control knob off? The parts schematic shows being held on with a "spring pin". I assume this is a spring-loaded detent? I don't see a corresponding hole in the knob where I could use a paper clip to push the detent back in.

I need to take the knob off, so that I can get the cover off, so that I can spray the end of the shaft to be able to get this adjustment un-frozen.

View attachment 92557 View attachment 92558
Spring pin is another word for tension pin or roll pin. Its a x through pin that you drive out with a pin punch. In this case I would recommend using some sort of backup block to support and protect the shaft from the impact.

Dan
 
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GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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Well mine cost me $7 to find out how NOT to remove it..:(....
Once you KNOW how it was installed ,you can hopefully save the $7 !
There's a molded 'slot' where the rollpin gets 'locked' into.
The 'theory' is if you turn the knob to the correct spot, the roll pin will be aligned with the long grooves that allow the knob to slid onto the shaft. When all the way down, turning the knob will 'lock' the rollpin into the 'locking' grooves.
I actually finally put my new knob on yesterday(it was tight to slide...should have oiled it),though haven't turned it...got sidetracked with the 'pool of liquid' under the tractor.

I don't know IF you'll be successful getting it off, you'll have to try to 'feel' the rollpin line up with the long grooves. Now IF you can see the OTHER roll pin in the back, it's the same AND if you can SEE the 'install' grooves, line them up and it 'should' come off,probably with some GENTLE help.
 
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Jonny4523

Member

Equipment
L4310 HST
Nov 10, 2022
30
2
8
Lafayette, IN
Spring pin is another word for tension pin or roll pin. Its a x through pin that you drive out with a pin punch. In this case I would recommend using some sort of backup block to support and protect the shaft from the impact.

Dan
I am not seeing any perpendicular holes in the knob that you would use to either install and remove a roll pin.

Well mine cost me $7 to find out how NOT to remove it..:(....
Once you KNOW how it was installed ,you can hopefully save the $7 !
There's a molded 'slot' where the rollpin gets 'locked' into.
The 'theory' is if you turn the knob to the correct spot, the roll pin will be aligned with the long grooves that allow the knob to slid onto the shaft. When all the way down, turning the knob will 'lock' the rollpin into the 'locking' grooves.
I actually finally put my new knob on yesterday(it was tight to slide...should have oiled it),though haven't turned it...got sidetracked with the 'pool of liquid' under the tractor.

I don't know IF you'll be successful getting it off, you'll have to try to 'feel' the rollpin line up with the long grooves. Now IF you can see the OTHER roll pin in the back, it's the same AND if you can SEE the 'install' grooves, line them up and it 'should' come off,probably with some GENTLE help.
So likely try to grab the shaft with some alligator vice grips and spray some PB blaster into the knob’s molded slot?
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
I am not seeing any perpendicular holes in the knob that you would use to either install and remove a roll pin.



So likely try to grab the shaft with some alligator vice grips and spray some PB blaster into the knob’s molded slot?
Not the first time I have seen that. You may need to push down on the knob to unlock the pin.

Dan
 
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ctfjr

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L3800HST
Dec 7, 2009
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central ct
Back to your original post. . . I had the exact same issue, apparently not so uncommon.
I had vise grips on it and was to the point of one more foot-lb of force and I would have 2 shafts.
What worked for me - I thoroughly sprayed the shaft with Mouse Milk (yeah its a real thing) and let it sit overnight. Free enough in the morning to turn by hand. PB Blaster may do the same. Let it sit for a day.
 
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Jonny4523

Member

Equipment
L4310 HST
Nov 10, 2022
30
2
8
Lafayette, IN
Back to your original post. . . I had the exact same issue, apparently not so uncommon.
I had vise grips on it and was to the point of one more foot-lb of force and I would have 2 shafts.
What worked for me - I thoroughly sprayed the shaft with Mouse Milk (yeah its a real thing) and let it sit overnight. Free enough in the morning to turn by hand. PB Blaster may do the same. Let it sit for a day.
That's what I am trying to do. But I can't get to the other end of the shaft without removing the access plate.... which I can't do without getting this knob off.
 

ruger1980

Active member

Equipment
L4310 w/La682, L225
Oct 25, 2020
331
120
43
CNY
If you remove the hinge pin at the front of the seat then the lower seat bracket you can left that panel so you can reach the other end of the coupling shaft. At that end I believe there is a cotter key or maybe as mine has, a hairpin clip you can easily remove.
 

lugbolt

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ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
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if that knob has been on there a while it'll likely have to be cut off. Or burned off. They tend to get stuck. SOMETIMES you can get the whole shaft off, but they too often get stuck. My routine was to try to remove the hair pin or cotter pin (whichever it had on that particular model) then try to pull the shaft off. IF it is stuck, hit it with penetrant (I make my own and use an old 1950's oil can to dispense it), then do something else a while. If it won't budge, heat gun to the knob. IF that don't work, cut it off. In working on them for a living, you learned quickly that time=money; and it ain't the tech's money, it's the customer's money.
 
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