How do I disconnect these hydraulic lines?

[johnsayen]

Embarrassing question and I really don't want to break these hard lines on the loader - I overlayed three different colored lines on each of what I believe are wrench points at the connection from soft to hard lines.

My questions:
Which line (purple, green, yellow) is the hold spot, and which line do I need to twist and in what direction to disconnect these fittings?

My guess would be: hold yellow line with wrench, twist green line with wrench counter-clockwise/basically toward the top of the loader.

Reason behind my question is it's unclear to me whether the spinning center nut is part of the soft hose or the hard line?

If I turn tractor off, 360 the joystick, and disconnect the quick couplings from the tractor these loader lines should not be pressurized correct?

Thank you

 

[Chanceywd]

Your description sounds right to me!

Bill

Yes the spinning nut is part of the hose end.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yes to all......
do a quick jerk to 'green' nut...
also use the PROPERLY sized wrenches NOT 'something close'.....

 

[TheOldHokie]

Embarrassing question and I really don't want to break these hard lines on the loader - I overlayed three different colored lines on each of what I believe are wrench points at the connection from soft to hard lines.

My questions:
Which line (purple, green, yellow) is the hold spot, and which line do I need to twist and in what direction to disconnect these fittings?
View attachment 105932
My guess would be: hold yellow line with wrench, twist green line with wrench counter-clockwise/basically toward the top of the loader.

Reason behind my question is it's unclear to me whether the spinning center nut is part of the soft hose or the hard line?

If I turn tractor off, 360 the joystick, and disconnect the quick couplings from the tractor these loader lines should not be pressurized correct?

Thank you

The center nut (green) is a female swivel on the end of the hose. Put an open end wrench on the tube fitting (yellow) to prevent it from turning and use another wrench to unscrew the swivel nut. Do not allow the tube nut to turn.

Dan

 

[GrizBota]

You nailed it. Yes, the lines in the FEL will be depressurized if you do as stated.

Just curious why the lines need to be taken apart? Hopefully a neat modification you’re adding.

 

[johnsayen]

Sorry GrizBota - nothing that exciting - the female quick connect coupler on one of the soft lines is leaking and I want to bring the hose into a shop rather than the whole tractor. I am hoping this is a reasonable approach?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sorry GrizBota - nothing that exciting - the female quick connect coupler on one of the soft lines is leaking and I want to bring the hose into a shop rather than the whole tractor. I am hoping this is a reasonable approach?

Why not just take off the quick connect coupler?

 

[GrizBota]

Sorry GrizBota - nothing that exciting - the female quick connect coupler on one of the soft lines is leaking and I want to bring the hose into a shop rather than the whole tractor. I am hoping this is a reasonable approach?

Seems reasonable to me. That way you still have the tractor if it takes them a while and you don’t have to load up a trailer (twice).

 

[DustyRusty]

The coupler is the item to remove not the soft line from the hard line. Post a picture of the coupler and we can most likely give you the description of the coupler so you can order one online or from a Kubota dealer.
When working on hydraulic lines I always use tubing wrenches that give even pressure on all sides of the nut. Good quality tubing wrenches are expensive, but not as expensive as replacing a damaged hard line. I set the wrenches so when I squeeze them together that they break the bond between the nut on the hard line and the nut on the soft (hydraulic) line.

 

[johnsayen]

Here's a picture of the coupling - what are the appropriate wrench points and directions on this one? I found this to be more confusing, which is why I was going to take the approach with removing the entire soft line from the hard line. Thank you.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Sorry GrizBota - nothing that exciting - the female quick connect coupler on one of the soft lines is leaking and I want to bring the hose into a shop rather than the whole tractor. I am hoping this is a reasonable approach?

Here's a picture of the coupling - what are the appropriate wrench points and directions on this one? I found this to be more confusing, which is why I was going to take the approach with removing the entire soft line from the hard line. Thank you.

That looks like a hose with rigid male NPT end. You disconnect the coupler from the valve then immobilize the hex on the hose with an open end wrench. Do not let it turn as you unscrew the coupler using another open end wrench on the milled flats. Reassemble with a pipe thread sealant.

At this point I will ask the obvious - what is leaking and where?

Dan

 

[johnsayen]

At this point I will ask the obvious - what is leaking and where?

The blue hydraulic line on my loader's female quick connect coupler is leaking.

I have tried several times: disconnect blue and red lines, run tractor, no leak from blue male nipple on tractor side.
Reconnect blue and red lines, run tractor, confirm leak coming from blue female on loader hose side.

Attached another picture showing one of the leak points.

Thank you

 

[TheOldHokie]

The blue hydraulic line on my loader's female quick connect coupler is leaking.

I have tried several times: disconnect blue and red lines, run tractor, no leak from blue male nipple on tractor side.
Reconnect blue and red lines, run tractor, confirm leak coming from blue female on loader hose side.

Attached another picture showing one of the leak points.

Thank you

OK - what part of the female coupler is leaking and how do you propose to fix it? Taking things apart unnecesarily is a good way to create new leaks.

Dan

 

[johnsayen]

OK - what part of the female coupler is leaking and how do you propose to fix it? Taking things apart unnecesarily is a good way to create new leaks.

I have no idea, I was going to replace the coupler. When I quick-disconnect from the male nipple and visually inspect nothing seems obvious. You can see in the picture one of the leak points is hydraulic fluid coming out of the top of the slide lock ring. I do not know if that's the entirety of it. My original plan was to remove the soft line + coupler from the hard line and bring it into a tractor shop. It sounds like removing the coupler itself is a better plan and install a new one.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have no idea, I was going to replace the coupler. When I quick-disconnect from the male nipple and visually inspect nothing seems obvious. You can see in the picture one of the leak points is hydraulic fluid coming out of the top of the slide lock ring. I do not know if that's the entirety of it. My original plan was to remove the soft line + coupler from the hard line and bring it into a tractor shop. It sounds like removing the coupler itself is a better plan and install a new one.

Youvwill need to buy theccorrctvstyle coupler. Those are not the same as the couplers you will find at your local TSC or Menards.

Dan

 

[johnsayen]

Youvwill need to buy theccorrctvstyle coupler. Those are not the same as the couplers you will find at your local TSC or Menards.

Dan

Sounds good, looks like the following if I'm understanding the parts diagram correctly:

COUPLER, HNV38NP
Part # 7J417-66320

 

[TheOldHokie]

Sounds good, looks like the following if I'm understanding the parts diagram correctly:

COUPLER, HNV38NP
Part # 7J417-66320

Yes.

Dan

 

[DustyRusty]

Your tractor looks quite new. Is it still under warranty? If so, check with your selling dealer for a remedy. Sometimes they will say to bring it in and they will fix it, others will send a technician to you to do the repair, and others will offer to give you the part and have you return the defective part upon replacement.

 

[johnsayen]

Update: There's a small o-ring inside the female quick coupler that must have fallen out - found it on my garage floor. This appears to have solved the problem. Have some spares on the way.

I am thinking about buying a set of open ended wrenches large enough to handle these couplers and other tractor pieces - I am assuming it's all metric, will I have ample tools if I get every size up to 24mm?

Thank you

 

[TheOldHokie]

Update: There's a small o-ring inside the female quick coupler that must have fallen out - found it on my garage floor. This appears to have solved the problem. Have some spares on the way.

I am thinking about buying a set of open ended wrenches large enough to handle these couplers and other tractor pieces - I am assuming it's all metric, will I have ample tools if I get every size up to 24mm?

Thank you

Except for the flats on the Faster couplers probaly not metric. You will need up to 1-1/8 (1-1/16???) to cover -8 SAE and JIC fittings.

Dan